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| Keko8. 09. 2014 12:02:51 |
Why poor?
For this kid it's a piece of cake.
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| klemen7323. 08. 2015 17:37:48 |
Today did the third of the hardest "Slovenian ferratas".
The difficulty of Gonžarjeva peč surprised me a bit, given that Češka koča also has an E passage, Lisca also D/E.
Need to recategorize all three ferratas, because by difficulty it would be:
1. Gonžarjeva peč (E)
2. Lisca (D/E)
3. Češka koča (D/E)
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| UROS115. 05. 2016 13:39:25 |
Gonžarca is the law! But I have a question: last time I climbed it 5x up and 5x down I got such bad blisters on hands - also because of that I didn't continue.... Interested in experiences of you users of this profile. Is there anything that would protect climber from blisters. I had cycling fingerless gloves, then used Camp leather gloves - nothing helps...
I saw in the logbook one hero (can call him that) climbed 11x in a row, at least that's what it says. Really wonder how he did it and what hands he had after, otherwise BRAVO and hats off. My record so far 5x up and down.
Would be very grateful for any useful info, if there's anything in this world to protect me from such bad blisters.... And nice weekend further to all. Uroš
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| palček plezalček15. 05. 2016 13:55:09 |
Uros1, you'll avoid blisters if you climb on the rock and use the cable only for belay.
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| UROS115. 05. 2016 21:30:55 |
Yes, I'll try that next: climbing and holding only on rock, and using cable only for protection. Not sure if it can be free climbed entirely without holding cable. Will try next. Good advice or idea.
Primoza: how many times in a row did you climb this ferrata up and down. For some ascent and descent 1x or 2x you really don't get blisters yet.
Anyone have experience with those fingerless Mamut gloves from Iglu sports? Do they really help?
Afraid not much better than other gloves...
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| palček plezalček15. 05. 2016 22:07:02 |
It's not about the climbing difficulty, but that hands slide along the steel cable and blisters form.
To comfortably climb just on the rock in Gonžarjeva, but it's not merely 5a, will be a bit harder. Maybe better to go with a partner and belay with a rope. (smaller fall factor on slip).
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| palček plezalček15. 05. 2016 22:29:13 |
Depends who you ask. Some might like being able to grab the cable in a pinch, even if they planned to free climb. And yeah, how 'crazy' an action it is to climb on friends for fun at the crag sometimes 
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| Viper15. 05. 2016 22:52:53 |
Exactly so, who can climb a hard ferrata completely without grabbing the cable once or stepping on pegs...
I can hardly imagine just climbing a ferrata without help from any protections, especially over some smooth overhang.
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| grega_z_brega15. 05. 2016 23:49:40 |
so these are alpinists then?
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| Keko16. 05. 2016 00:11:53 |
If you toughen your hands gradually, you can climb pretty long ferratas even without gloves. So far I've climbed all ferratas without gloves and without blisters. Best feel is without gloves.
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| dprapr16. 05. 2016 10:29:14 |
It seems to me utterly unusual and simultaneously dangerous to intentionally climb ferratas without help of pegs and cables. Even more unusual to belay on it with rope just so we climb it without aids.
Isn't it better and safer to climb a climbing route without that "junk" which can be deadly in a fall.
Maybe interesting for some alpinist going ferrata without protection or descent from climb... But basically then endangers self and hikers below too, even if feels capable.
No sense and very dangerous (emphasize again) to recommend such acrobatics to a beginner in ferratas. Many will after these posts think when tackling ferratas how it'd be to climb some without aids. Becomes very dangerous challenge!
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| palček plezalček16. 05. 2016 10:45:37 |
Dprapr, the fall factor when using a self-belay kit can be 4 or more, with rope belaying though... well, we know we wouldn't just write anything. And no one encourages anyone to climb without using protections, especially not on secured paths at someone's limit. On the contrary, maybe it's even better not to tackle them, or have an experienced and qualified person lead such a person on a rope as second. As for alpinism, there's too much of it on this forum, and the easy ones, the most dangerous - easy routes where the rock is mostly of much worse quality than in harder ones, slips due to scree more likely, belay options poorer...
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| Zebdi16. 05. 2016 11:28:54 |
Dprapr is spot on. If you're protecting yourself with a rope, pick some easy alpine or multi-pitch sport route. Then the ferrata is a bunch of metal you simply don't want to hit in a fall.
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| SamoK16. 05. 2016 11:58:46 |
Clear! Gymnastics on man-made railways has less in common with alpinism than climbing skyscraper facades.
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| SamoK16. 05. 2016 12:01:12 |
Subtitles for moralists, plenty on this forum:
Nothing against gymnastics on railways or facade climbing. Even admire facade climbers in my way.
Talking ferratas and alpinism in same breath is ridiculous.
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| Hribolaznik27. 08. 2016 13:24:40 |
On Friday first time on Gonžar, nice sports via ferrata, in difficulty very similar to the one in Železna Kapla, only the Austrian one is longer. Left some skin on the cable in the lower part, what can you do.
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| lino20. 11. 2016 20:05:21 |
Pictures No. 5-7 in the climbing wall radiate such relaxed good mood that many can't even muster at home on the couch. The grand finale of the report is the wiiiide (wide) smile of the standard team. Good luck and keep having fun!
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