| viharnik19. 02. 2010 16:59:00 |
Today I went to get the book of Tomaž Humar's updated edition.
The book describes his ascents from the beginnings of climbing at home to remote spiritual places of Himalayan giants, in between many experiences with climbers, Šrauf, Janez Jeglič, Stipeta Božič and others. In the title Great Star from a Small Country, Messner concludes the description of Slovenian rise of Himalayanism with Aleš Kunaver, who was paving the way back then. Later a small group of top alpinists formed, who kept pushing boundaries on Makalu, Everest and Lhotse. Among them was also Stane Belak Šrauf, the quiet genius of the group and later Humar's teacher. Messner credits Tomaž with masterful command of all disciplines of modern alpinism, on El Capitan, in the Alps and Himalayas. At the end Messner summarizes that with Tomaž there is no feel of the pointing finger and also no self-aggrandizement like in Bonatti's ethics. Humar radiates joy of life, creativity and tolerance, above all that special will to take a step forward, which has always ennobled alpinism.
Note from friend Carlos Carsolio, December 2009, after Tomaž's visit in Kamnik, says that Tomaž, all proud of his country, led them through magnificent Slovenian villages and fields, they went to the mountains and drank exceptional wines, while planning their dreams. He named him after a natural force named Tomaž Humar, this unique man who changed our lives, this man who saw a challenge in every obstacle, who seemed so unshakable, yet had such a sensitive soul, so full of emotions. He gave out love and understanding with a completely open heart, with the same intensity as he sought them. He says: I remember Tomaž's last calls over the computer, his face full of energy, his palms moving so fast that it seemed they would break through the screen, when he told me the last details before leaving for the Himalayas. "Hey, tourist" he said, "we were lucky, we survived, we succeeded, let's use this success, this fame to help the poor. Let's change the world!"
He was loved and hated, aroused admiration and envy, was a role model and target of attacks, and such is the path of pioneers, such is the path when there are no impossible paths. Explore further, my dear Tomaž, my brother, one day we will all walk in your footsteps.
At the end of the book it's also noted that from the photos Tomaž took during the ascent, one can conclude that Tomaž climbed the planned route before the fall and connected it to the Japanese Route that runs along the ridge.
On Wednesday the seventh of October he reported to his loved ones grins all day. Was with a Tibetan family. Father 50 years, daughter 20, child 3 years. Black kitchen. Modesty. FOR reward carried the child in the rain. HIS NAME IS MIMGVAR like mine. Born on Tuesday. dignity. peace in the soul. big heart. HAPPY BACK HOME. ME AGAIN. Langtang 3340m, tomorrow I'll check the base 4200m.
Tomaž Humar's book is an invaluable spiritual treasure, full of beauties of inaccessible mountains and Himalayan motifs of everyday life under the mountains.
In one week at PZS they sold already over fifty copies of this uniquely experienced, beautiful, spiritual permanent memory book, of the exceptional Slovene-Par Excellence-, everywhere desired our Tomaž Humar.
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