|
| klemenstular6. 11. 2015 06:32:44 |
Congratulations on the ascent.
Curious though, see you slept in Adlersruhe. Probably have winter bunks right? Thanks for info.
Best Klemen
| (+1) |  | |
|
|
|
|
| IgorZlodej6. 11. 2015 07:01:19 |
Thanks, four bunks with blankets and pillows, otherwise more ascetic, meant more for emergency, but guides use them too, so not that bad, no heating  .
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| UROS16. 11. 2015 07:06:55 |
Bravo Igor! Great tour. If weather stays same all month - no major precip, I'll repeat this tour myself for my birthday end November
|
|
|
|
| redbull6. 11. 2015 07:26:49 |
Triglav or Klek. Or both at once
|
|
|
|
| UROS112. 11. 2015 18:46:43 |
jaaa dear colleague Redbull, Grossglockner definitely has the advantage !!! Where would you think there would be such nice weather throughout the whole November..... now it looks very good for Grossglockner, we'll talk.
 1
| (+4) | | |
|
|
|
|
| urarrr17. 11. 2015 13:48:46 |
On Saturday 14.11.2015 to the summit via the Studergrat ridge. Visibility and snow conditions very good, but it was blowing like crazy and temperature was -11. Descent via normal route. We walked from dark to dark approx
If anyone is interested in the ascent and a few meters descent, video attached ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2Q_qY1N86U
cheers
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| mjakopic17. 11. 2015 17:10:19 |
Congratulations on the ascent.
Normally I refrain from such comments, but this time for the safety of those who might take the video as an example, I won't. The video is a vivid illustration of how NOT to climb roped... Especially with someone who is (obviously) less experienced and physically less prepared than you. No hard feelings
| (+15) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Viper17. 11. 2015 17:50:54 |
mjakopic
It really is a nice illustration of how NOT to climb roped.
If you're roped, belay, otherwise untie.
But this happens a lot, especially on Grossglockner, Matterhorn...
| (+8) | | |
|
|
|
|
| UROS117. 11. 2015 18:30:55 |
Bravo and bravo again to all!!!
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Smetar17. 11. 2015 18:41:57 |
@urarrr: Congrats on the ascent!
I'm curious what camera you use and how long the battery lasts in low temperatures? (in recording mode)
A couple more things I'd add about the video...
safety distance between rope teams/climbers: If you push so close to the other rope team it's dangerous for you too, as someone might (unintentionally) step on your hand with crampons or you have nowhere to grab if wind sweeps you.
choice of team member: if you're the team leader you must thoroughly select your climbing partner (desired is a test tour where you check his physical fitness and technical skills, desired is also altitude acclimatization - meaning he's used to performing optimally at the altitude you're heading to)
| (+5) | | |
|
|
|
|
| urarrr17. 11. 2015 22:45:25 |
Cheers...
Where protection was needed, I protected...
If I belayed every pitch we'd need two days for the ascent. But this route has many natural protections allowing belay even if not visible.
Otherwise we climbed unroped...
It'd be good if you go once with a Swiss guide on Matterhorn then write what % of route is protected and how much roped... if you're commenting how it's done on GG and Matterhorn...
No issues with climbing partner. On one-day ascent to GG in such conditions everyone has a little crisis. Me too, my head nearly fell off on descent. Given temp, wind etc all ok. Nothing unusual.
Close to first rope team intentionally... but watched my hands...
Camera lasts ca 20 min 4k recording with one battery at -10...
You need about 3 batteries with you.... He has a bit of cream, that's how it is...
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| SamoK18. 11. 2015 08:53:12 |
Excellent video of neurotic climbing.
| (+13) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Smetar18. 11. 2015 10:41:08 |
Thanks for info. What camera do you use? GoPro?
|
|
|
|
| IlijaRadanovic18. 11. 2015 11:28:42 |
Hm, simultaneous movement of the guided rope team on a ridge whose average rating is III/-IV UIAA is, of course, not something recommended. No hard feelings. Good luck and safe steps!
| (+5) | | |
|
|
|
|
| redbull18. 11. 2015 12:06:42 |
Once again congratulations Matej and your group.
Good luck
|
|
|
|
| dprapr18. 11. 2015 13:07:08 |
So, if the local swimmer goes roped with a non-swimmer to swim across the river, we'll go too!?
Otherwise excellent video!
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| redbull18. 11. 2015 13:11:53 |
Good thing you went to GG, otherwise some here would be bored.
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.