Horn Route in the wall of Jalovec
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| Jovan Cukut1. 07. 2011 22:06:01 |
For hikers who intend to ascend Jalovec, the following information: Due to falling rocks I advise against ascent via Ozebnik. Access from below, via left snow gully to marked path, over Jalovška škrbina is more suitable. To less experienced hikers I recommend at least the use of an ice axe, if not crampons. Descent over Kotovo sedlo is safe, just when crossing smaller snow gully more caution is needed. More about the tour on the link below.
https://picasaweb.google.com/jovan.cukut5/HornovaSmerVSteniJalovca29062011#
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| JusAvgustin2. 07. 2011 06:52:48 |
Congratulations Jovan, the last info. I got from that direction is that due to rockfall the route got a higher grade than before. Do you know more about it? Since you were there yourself? Where is that rockfall? Otherwise an incredible mountain with incredible route. The old "cat" Horn knew how to bypass all "problems". Once again from the heart: bravo!
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| Jovan Cukut2. 07. 2011 07:57:41 |
Due to age and color of the rock (don't know when the rockfall was) we didn't even notice it. But Horn's chimney itself is the most demanding on the ascent, to me harder than combined climbed Bavarian and Long German route in the North face of Triglav. Maybe it will be easier for you and next time for me too. The route is also very demanding orientation-wise. Otherwise, T. Mihelič writes more detailed about it in his guidebook.
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Congratulations on the ascent.
I'm interested if you drove to Tamar by car? How is it this year, when is it allowed or is there any driving ban to Tamar?
Thanks in advance
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| skrajnik2. 07. 2011 11:13:55 |
again drooling 
and nice photos...
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| Jovan Cukut2. 07. 2011 11:28:09 |
No barriers in Planica for a long time and you can drive to Tamar by car anytime.
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| Lj2. 07. 2011 13:36:15 |
I went on foot to Tamar on 19.6. - the road was literally torn off after the night thunderstorm already at the start, later buried under rock slides at some places, in short I doubt they have managed to fix it yet.
Lp Lj
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| ljubitelj gora2. 07. 2011 14:14:03 |
The road is drivable without problems but closed to traffic.
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| urbancek2. 07. 2011 15:07:23 |
Come on, tell me once what it means that it's closed to traffic, but everyone drives on it, speaking generally, also for example the road to the end of Kamniška Bistrica. I don't understand how they can allow this, it's approximately like, exaggerating a bit, stopping people in Mojstrana for Triglav.
Fix these accesses once suitable for normal hikers, so people can park at normal, suitable starting points! 
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| lijaneja2. 07. 2011 16:38:54 |
Jovan, excellent photos in great weather conditions. And new ascent route - haven't heard of it yet, thought I was an old-timer hiker. Interested where the entry to the wall starts and if it exceeds III. grade. I always go up via Ozebnik.
lp Tone
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| penzionist2. 07. 2011 17:18:35 |
Nice photos and nice ascent, Jovan. For this forum, however, some additional information is missing. This is an alpinistic route which was climbed over 100 years ago by the Graz solo climber Ferdinand Horn; Jovan did it with a mountain guide who took care of his guest's safety. And this is one of two proper ways through this route. The other is with knowledge of alpinistic skills, which can also be acquired from qualified instructors.
A known rockfall in this route happened many years ago (~30 or more), it took away the lower part of the famous Horn chimney. Entry to it is closed by a few-meter overhanging slab loaded with (alpinistic) pegs. For now. Probably soon some hero will clean this "mess" and pull them out. Just like various other human markers preferably.
It's normal (with us) to drive on the road. If a warden catches someone, they pay "toll" and almost everyone is happy. Wardens, locals and those not caught by the warden.
Via Ozebnik it has long been known that the summer passage is more like Russian roulette. That's why the path is routed left over the wall, which makes a detour, but a person is not so dependent only on luck.
And... I don't know to whom or what it makes sense to boast about alpinistic ascents on hiking forums. Let the forum be a hiking one, where such things can also fit, just with emphasis - smartly, safely and as Jovan did - with a guide. Otherwise various injuries will happen unwillingly.
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| mosovnik2. 07. 2011 18:05:34 |
Aaah; Hornova.......
Lijaneja: Penzionist nicely explained all. Anyway it's exclusively alpinistic route, quite old and well known among alpinists. Difficulty on sections exceeds the grade you mentioned (though not always key data). Route already took its toll (memorial plaque at Ozebnik entry to my countrymen), as reminder only alpinists should attempt it, exceptionally experienced mountaineers with qualified alpinist guide.
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| lijaneja2. 07. 2011 18:50:37 |
Mosovnik, thanks for reply, so I can calmly forget Horn route - not my level.
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| Jovan Cukut2. 07. 2011 19:07:31 |
On Hribi.net I also sometimes get info about conditions in mountains. I also provided these regarding conditions for ascent to Jalovec on normal paths. Maybe boasting as penzionist writes, but all serves as info for those mountaineers who would like to ascend Horn route to Jalovec. I myself get inspiration for some tour when reading similar published ascents on hiking forum. Otherwise, due to all written there, considering not participating on forum anymore.
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| IgorZlodej2. 07. 2011 19:18:26 |
Jovan congrats also from me and don't mind others, you described and said well what needed to be said.
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| YoYo2. 07. 2011 19:53:45 |
Nice description, nice photos. Bravo Jovan, others to retirement 
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| Wine2. 07. 2011 20:39:42 |
Jovo legend!
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| ledo844. 07. 2011 12:13:14 |
Great job!!! The amazing picture from Little Jalovec to the ridge and north wall of Jalovec, no comment!!! Can one get from L.K. via long screes to the ridge leading to Jalovec summit in summer conditions??
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| sherpa4. 07. 2011 12:26:17 |
...and then you wonder about the pensioner's warnings, which are undoubtedly in place 
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| stanebalant4. 07. 2011 19:03:21 |
The limits of the possible are expanding day by day, in all areas. I see no reason why someone shouldn't post their ascent of a route like Jovan did with his climbing partner on this forum, even though it's considered an exclusively alpinistic route and according to some comments this thread doesn't belong here. Jovan's report describes (and shows) everything that befits such a tour and what's needed. I didn't take the contribution as boasting at all, since those who know Jovan know his modesty, but he likes to share his successes in Slovenian mountains with others, just like many of us. His tours are filled with enormous energy, especially emotions. If you don't believe it, try it, he'll welcome you into his company and I'm sure you'll appreciate him too. I've had the honor of doing quite a few ascents, including alpinistic ones, in his company, of course combined with other hikers, climbers, alpinists, friends or whatever you want to call them (respectable ladies included), in short, in the company of good people with whom we have immeasurable fun in the mountains, rejoice, enjoy, deliberately or inadvertently get lost and more and more...
Jovan, congrats on the ascent, looking forward to the next joint tour.
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| IgorZlodej4. 07. 2011 19:51:01 |
@ledo84, from the big screes it's possible to Jalovec, you get up either from Loška Koritnica or from Bavšica. From the screes you'll find up a smaller gully - crumbly, which you climb to the top and reach the secured path Kotovo sedlo - Jalovec summit. Been there in dry and snowy conditions, in snow it's a bit easier up the gully, but that doesn't apply later to the ascent to Jalovec summit. The easiest way to the screes is to go behind Turn and further under Loški žleb - crumbly.
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