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Mangart via Via della Vita ferrata

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Bojan_A9. 09. 2010 23:29:37
The path is in good condition, but I'd warn that it's quite dangerous for slipping in many places.

For the section Bivouac - Mangart summit we needed 3 hours 20 minutes. It drags on, more than one might think.

LP, Bojan
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freeskies10. 07. 2011 19:47:36
Has anyone maybe gone Via della Viti this year? Interested in the conditions or if the ferrata is open at all?
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zvitorepec10. 07. 2011 22:21:02
Today I was at the Fusine Lakes and went to check the junction where it shows directions to each mountain and it said Via Ferrata closed so it's probably closed.

Lp
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MANGRT11. 07. 2011 07:12:22
The ferrata is officially closed since May due to a torn rope.
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2061alessio11. 07. 2011 17:45:36
via ferrata "via della vita" which leads to bivouac CAI Tarvisio Alberto Busettini is closed for a couple of years due to one part of the torn rope in the middle section and now it has become just an alpinistic path.
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dprapr11. 07. 2011 20:03:40
We did the ferrata last week. Officially it's closed but it's quite well equipped. The sign says it's closed due to the upper part of the path. There, something isn't well secured. But we didn't see that part of the path at all because we stayed more to the right (old markings, easier climbing). So we missed the ladder that's in the route description. We went straight up just above the vertical with cables, then right when we were back on the path. Apparently that's some old path variant.
The most awkward is at the entry because you have to squeeze through dirty snow and rock to the start.

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freeskies12. 07. 2011 09:51:34
Thanks for this information.
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ogo19. 08. 2011 09:44:32
Hello!

I'm interested in the following. I'd like to go from Belopeška Lakes to Rif. Zacchi hut on Visoka Ponca, then to Srednja and zadnja Ponca, Strug, to Vevnica, Huda škrbina, Mangart and back to starting point via bivak Nogara. Is it possible to hike the route in one day? Can someone give me a timetable for these points I described?

Thanks for the reply!
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dprapr19. 08. 2011 10:12:51
Everything is possible! Of course it depends on many things (physical fitness, experience, ...).
You'll need at least 10 to 12 hours of good weather!
Best regards and enjoy!
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ogo19. 08. 2011 12:23:09
Thanks, I wanted to find out approximately how much time to plan for the route.
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jaz*19. 08. 2011 13:57:31
In July I did part of your tour, i.e. from Zacchi hut to V. Ponca, crossing Srednja Ponca. Due to the technical demands of the tour, it goes slower. It is good to consider this when planning the tour. nasmeh
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bagi22. 08. 2011 18:06:35
Wonderful weather, solitude, pristine wilderness and adrenaline approach are more than enough reasons that this route deserves a full ten for artistic impression nasmeh. Start from Belopeška Lakes at an unfriendly morning hour, walking in the dark almost to the ferrata entrance, then pure pleasure jezik. Ferrata Via della Vita to bivak Busellini, continuation of ferrata to MK Mangart and entry in the book which shows how veeery lonely this mountain is eek. Continuation along the ridge to junction with lower marked path, descent to Škrbina, nerve-racking crossing of steep grass and final ascent to Mangart. Descent via Italian path, at the saddle descent to bivak Nogara and evening walk back to Belopeška Lakes. Tour of pure highlights mežikanje

Regards, Bagi
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ksena22. 08. 2011 18:48:44
I agree it's a route of highlights. We did it last year.. beautiful, adrenaline-packed... and yesterday we surely saw each other at least for a moment from hill to hill nasmeh. Good luck and enjoy further mežikanje
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skalar5022. 08. 2011 19:05:22
Bravo! Also great photos...
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CarpeDiem2477. 09. 2011 20:09:49
Hi!

Just wondering what the continuation is like towards MKM, I know Via della Vita, but haven't gone beyond it yet. Probably this continuation isn't harder or is it? nasmeh
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IgorZlodej7. 09. 2011 20:20:30
First freely up some wider gully, then protections follow, almost vertical cable, then over Huda škrbina again some protections and crossing steep exposed grass to junction with Italian path to Mangart summit. If you manage Via della Viti without issues, no problems here either.
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freeskies7. 09. 2011 20:29:15
On Saturday we went via Via della Viti to Trbiški bivak. Path is officially closed, protections poor in some places, otherwise ok. Two brackets hidden. One bracket where path goes vertical above ledge (best photo spot) looks ok but wobbles when grabbed and not suitable for foot load.
From exit of vertical ferrata part to junction for Trbiški bivak and on to Vevnica path practically unprotected (rusted piton remains show it was once). Fun slab scrambling, not overly exposed.
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CarpeDiem2477. 09. 2011 20:30:46
No problem, hm, already the entry was extremely problematic, or by myself I might not have even managed to enter the route, but my buddy belayed me. Then we did some neck-breaking descent to our side, from the top of Vevnica to Kotovo sedlo, along some abandoned path - weird thing, crumbly like a pig (with twisted ankle even more so)! velik nasmeh
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freeskies7. 09. 2011 20:38:58
CarpeDiem, when did you guys do it? Looks like we took the same routenasmeh. We then went to Vevnica, return to the bivouac and descent to some abandoned gully (marked), where you climb up the gully and then traverse to Kotovo sedlo. Fun pathmežikanje. Ankle ok already?
PS: entry to Via della Viti (first 3 meters) is in my opinion the hardest part of the ferratanasmeh.
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CarpeDiem2477. 09. 2011 20:50:27
That was in 2008, September! Ankle is already fine, fairly nasmeh

Actually the entry to Via della Viti is the hardest, then everything else was great, we also got lucky that the chain was lowered, otherwise it can apparently be very interesting.

Later we wanted to descend quickly from Vevnica along some scree (direct to Tamar), but at the end we were surprised by a few hundred meters of almost vertical, followed by re-ascent up the scree and only then across very steep grass to that Pradavni pass towards Kotovo sedlo and that interesting bivouac hidden under a huge rock. nasmeh

At the start we had three planned for Via della Viti, but one chickened out already when he couldn't enter the route and said the mountain gave him a sign not to let him on, hehevelik nasmeh
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