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Mangart via Via della Vita ferrata

Naprosyn4. 08. 2018 00:22:55

Specifically with a delay, but anyway, if the info on snowfield conditions is useful to someone.

Belopeška Lakes - via Italiana - Mangart - Bivacco Tarvisio - via della Vita - Belopeška Lakes (conditions 28.7.2018)

Path to Mangart OK, dry, no issues. Path marks from Mangart to Bivacco Tarvisio somewhat sparser, to which I'll partly attribute too long wandering from summit to Rob nad Zagačami (main reason poor path info of course, still don't know if bivouac reachable via ridge or only this path dropping to scree towards Loška Koritnica, so had to ascend again to bivouac).
At top of VDV small snow patch, easily bypassed. First time on VDV and path seemed quite attractive, tourist hiker of my kind can momentarily imagine rubbing shoulders with serious climbing. nasmeh

One bracket loose, rest impeccable.
Snowfield under wall much smaller compared to a month ago, yet at tour end exit from secured path and crawling to dry part on right side without winter gear quite nasty. First tried left side (facing wall), seemed easier initially and admit after realizing gully depth I got nicely worried how we'd get out. If we two were quite delayed at exit, not clear how older guy (no winter gear) we met soon below bivouac reached first protections (buddy thought maybe turned back below due to inability to exit steep gully and went up again). Apart from path finding issues, this snowfield was the most problematic part of otherwise nice hike.

The upper gully is hikeable; before entering VDV, one must climb over the remaining snow.

(+3)

redbull4. 08. 2018 00:38:28

Nice, that snow won't run out this year.
Path via ridge and down possible, but more or less climbing in opposite direction, not many do your /reverse one.

Good luck

ranyhyn5. 08. 2018 16:39:27

Yesterday hiked:
Belopeška lakes - Via della vita - Vevnica - V koncu špica - Kotova špica - back to bivouac Tarvisio - Mangart - bivouac Nogara - Belopeška lakes.

Regarding the snowfield at the entrance - need to cross cca 5m hard snow (narrowest part of snowfield in the picture). Since I had crampons and ice axe, I went over the snow, but it looked like you can quite easily avoid the snow right by the wall. Once past the snow no more major issues, as cables are already after some 5m and help you reach the "hole", where as I read was formerly the entrance or to where you had to descend.

(+6)

2061alessio18. 08. 2018 16:24:46

On behalf of Gorski Vodniki FJK -Guide Alpine FVG- for safety we have officially closed ferrata Via della Vita, we placed closure signs on the path in the scree in stara planini/alpe vecchia and at bivouac A.Busettini/ former CAI Tarvisio; now this part is only alpinistic ascent, Alessio x CAI Tarvisio.

(+13)

bbugari118. 08. 2018 16:34:43

Right. This anyway wasn't a hiking trail but alpinistic ascent.

redbull18. 08. 2018 18:59:06

Why would it be closed? Are cables torn somewhere?

(+1)

sonny418. 08. 2018 21:44:56

@bbugari1 Via della Vita is neither a hiking trail nor an alpinistic ascent, but a very demanding ferrata. Marked, secured.

(+3)

2061alessio20. 08. 2018 14:14:35

Gorski Vodniki FJK last year renovated the first third of the ferrata, now sooner or later—I don't know when—they will renovate the other 2 thirds because they say the cables and pegs are not all up to date and safe as they should be by law, so now this part is an alpinistic ascent.

(+8)

djimuzl20. 08. 2018 16:46:17

Sign above Zagače

(+2)

bbugari120. 08. 2018 21:28:38

Sonny, this is obviously no longer a marked and secured ferrata. And what does ferrata mean, is it something else besides a hiking or alpinistic path, something third, or...?

sly22. 08. 2018 22:08:16

Bbugari1, this is still a secured climbing path, which is temporarily closed due to damaged protections. Where protections are missing, one needs to climb protected and roped up, that part is supposed to be an alpinistic ascent, everything else is still a secured climbing path, which cannot be compared to an alpinistic ascent, but is "ferrata-ing". This is also one nice branch of hiking, mountaineering or alpinism which, due to abundance of years, I increasingly use nasmeh

Nice hiking regards, Sly.

(+4)

KLAN29. 07. 2020 23:45:36

Who knows what's the condition up there? velik

redbull30. 07. 2020 06:09:36

Don't forget winter gear, it might happen that the cornice snow shelf causes problems.

(+2)

bongo30. 07. 2020 08:20:20

Via Italiana path is fully passable without winter gear (either from Belopeski or descent from saddle). Good luck

(+1)

redbull30. 07. 2020 09:45:10

Via della Vita
Path of life is the title

(+2)

bongo30. 07. 2020 10:06:16

Then you're right, in that direction there's still quite a snowfield velik nasmeh

Sorry

matic42. 08. 2020 09:22:35

The Path of Life still has a closed sign. From old pl. to wall the path is freshly marked. The secured path now starts right of the snowfield, is led between terminal scree and wall, goes left slightly down then up where it joins the real start of the ferrata. You fully avoid snow, terminal scree to wall is really huge, maybe 10m high. All protections are impeccable (to upper scree). A couple of pegs are hidden, no real problems. I think the path ahead to Vevnica summit is normally passable as I saw hikers continuing to the top. Above scree I turned to Bivak Tarvisio. Beginning well marked, then very faded old marks. Worse ahead to Koritniški Mangart, here and there poor mark and some cairns. Here you go in the direction of the gully or a bit more left (demanding), in upper steepest part the wire helps. Ahead to evil notch only cairns (protections impeccable). From Mangart I descended Italian way, then before saddle Via Italiana to Bivak Nogaro and on to Belopeška lakes. To Mangart top 7 hours, whole loop with stops 12 hours.