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Mangart via Via della Vita ferrata

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redbull2. 11. 2013 17:12:13
Beautiful Friday used for Via della Vita; at the junction to Vevnica we left backpacks and climbed up to it. Back to bivouac for snack and then via M.K.Mangart all the way to "big" Mangart. Descent via Slovenian route and then easy to lakes.

Report: www.deyangrm.blogspot.com

Photos: http://www.mojalbum.com/dejanstasy/mkm-in-mangart-1-11-13


best

Dejan
1
2
3
up the gully4
the most difficult part5
Mangart6
on the Slovenian side down--ice axe comes in handy just in case7
8
(+5)like
poustr21. 07. 2014 23:16:41
Hello,

has anyone gone this path yet this year?
Is it dry?

Thanks, best
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MANGRT22. 07. 2014 06:56:41
For the entry part winter gear is still needed, lots of snow.
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poustr22. 07. 2014 11:28:14
Thanks for quick reply MANGRT! nasmeh
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iskalec20. 08. 2014 08:19:39

Hello!

Does anyone have info on the condition of the path Remšendol, Mt. Schober, Vraška škrbina and down to Krnica? Somewhere I read that the part dashed on the map is hard to pass.

Thanks for reply

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kitina2. 08. 2016 12:04:17
Hello!

Has anyone been on this path? Interested in snow conditions, state of fixed protection? Best.
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alyas30. 07. 2017 17:07:37
Belopeška (Mangartska) Lakes – Via della Vita – Bivacco Tarvisio – Mali Koritniški Mangart – Huda Škrbina – Mangart – Mangart Saddle – over Plazje – Belopeška Lakes … (conditions 29.07.2017)

First an introductory fact – given this year's modest snow cover, there is no snow on the path anywhere. The entrance to ferrata VdV has a new and impeccable cable, further on the condition of the path and ironwork is also OK.

Although the entire path should be marked, in larger parts the marks have unfortunately almost disappeared or faded to the extent that they are barely visible. But let's praise what's praiseworthy: Italians have newly red-marked the path from upper Alp Vecchia over scree to ferrata VdV, and also the path from Mangart Saddle leading down over Plazje (Forcella della Lavina) to Jezerska Planina or to the upper lake, there they have fresh white-red "strips". On our – intermediate part of the path, at least frequent cairns stand, more or less in the right places.

Finally – a bit about the weather (general useful advice), because the wall under Vevnica is mostly in shade, foggy and humid mornings do not provide optimal conditions for such ascent, fog is even more problematic in the continuation towards MKM and Huda Škrbina, as it prevents readability of already sparse and faded path marks. Also the passage on the narrow path amid steep grass from Huda Škrbina onwards above Loška Koritnica can be quite tricky in damp conditions.

For this route you will need approx. 10 hours (without breaks!), of which about 7 hours for ascent and good 3 hours for descent.
early hour - golden hour: but end of July at five in the morning at the start it's still dark1
on the upper pasture - towards Via della Vita2
last part of the scree below the wall3
across the Via della Vita ferrata4
entry part to the VdV ferrata5
at the beginning of the VdV ferrata6
towards the central part of the VdV ferrata7
across the so-called belly on the ferrata, where a thick chain helps8
in the upper part of the path, scree below Vevnica9
Before the end of the scree field to the right and across the loose scree.10
junction - the most frequently photographed motif at the end of the ferrata11
this young goat watched us all the time from above12
at bivouac Alberto Busettini Tarvisio and view towards MKM13
upwards towards MKM, following existing pegs and placing new ones14
view back to the bivouac, to Vevnica, V Koncu Špica and Kotova Špica15
vertically upwards - easiest with the help of the cable (but it is narrower in diameter!)16
the most demanding upper part of the ascent to MKM17
view back: it is good to have some strength in the arms18
At the exit from the wall, view towards the MKM summit.19
Towards the summit - in an easier world.20
The fog was right behind our heels all the time.21
At the summit Mali Koritniški Mangart (MKM), occasionally without view.22
Long summit ridge of MKM.23
View into the Loška Koritnica valley and to the peaks of Loška stena.24
Towards Huda Škrbina.25
Demanding descent downwards.26
Quite steep descent from Huda Škrbina.27
Then carefully forward among steep grass.28
In wet and slippery conditions, some technical assistance comes in very handy.29
This is the real steepness (no camera angle adjustment).30
view back: to the descent from Huda Škrbina and re-ascent through steep grasses31
finally some easier ascent towards the top of the ridge32
reason - why the path doesn't go along the ridge!33
a little more ... and we join the Italian route on Mangart34
under Mangart fog and Redbull team catch us again (via Kugy over Vevnica)35
Mangart, at the top36
such can also be the view from Mangart (to Belopeška lakes below ?!?)37
descent to Mangartsko sedlo38
View from the saddle back to Mangart.39
The path back to the valley is still long.40
Central part of the path across Plazje.41
... and how pleasant the path is at the end in Jezerska dolina.42
View after more than 10 hours of hiking, the fog has lifted, but clouds unfortunately covered Mangart.43
(+16)like
garmont30. 07. 2017 18:20:02
Excellent tour. But I don't understand why one has to climb crosses, towers on the mountain top...zavijanje z očmi
Isn't it high enough? eek
(+13)like
gams130. 07. 2017 19:50:57
alyas, I always like to look at your descriptions and photos cool, do you perhaps have any more details on the descent from Huda Škrbina, whether go down directly from the ridge or below more around zmeden
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redbull30. 07. 2017 20:39:43
eek
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alyas31. 07. 2017 08:19:29
Hmm, ... usually it's like that, where it's more demanding, less photos are taken. But as said: on descent from Huda Škrbina down to the gully there are enough pegs and cables for help, also the first continuing ascent over green grass is secured with a cable.
In dry there won't be any special problems, this descent part is just very demanding, not exceptionally so. Actually from above it's harder to find the traverse, which is otherwise marked and secured. Good luck!
descent from Huda Škrbina, the traverse is (was) marked1
continuation - first ascent over steep grass, a wire rope assists2
(+4)like
dprapr31. 07. 2017 08:30:36
Maybe this photo will help, where the descent is from behind.
1
(+2)like
gams131. 07. 2017 16:39:00
nasmeh thanks guys for the additional info.
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redbull30. 06. 2018 18:21:54
Via Della Vita-Vevnica-MKM-Mangart (30.06.18)

The snowfield is incredible, full winter gear mandatory all summer. Currently can't even reach the first bracket as usual. From above via the gully I somehow got there. Continuation without issues, all protections withstood winter well. To Vevnica, if you know you can bypass snowfield on left side, otherwise winter gear needed. The whole path to Mangart pure poetry, especially in such great weather. Surely not many visitors on this ferrata this year.
Good luck
Towards the snowfield1
2
3
Entrance to Via della Vito4
5
6
At Vevnica7
At the end of Špica8
Tired man9
bivouac Tarvisio10
To Mangart11
Still a bit on snow - Italian traverse12
Descent over Plazje13
Left entrance to Kugyevo/Strugova, right to Via della Vito14
(+10)like
Naprosyn4. 08. 2018 00:22:55
Specifically with a delay, but anyway, if the info on snowfield conditions is useful to someone.

Belopeška Lakes - via Italiana - Mangart - Bivacco Tarvisio - via della Vita - Belopeška Lakes (conditions 28.7.2018)

Path to Mangart OK, dry, no issues. Path marks from Mangart to Bivacco Tarvisio somewhat sparser, to which I'll partly attribute too long wandering from summit to Rob nad Zagačami (main reason poor path info of course, still don't know if bivouac reachable via ridge or only this path dropping to scree towards Loška Koritnica, so had to ascend again to bivouac).
At top of VDV small snow patch, easily bypassed. First time on VDV and path seemed quite attractive, tourist hiker of my kind can momentarily imagine rubbing shoulders with serious climbing. nasmeh One bracket loose, rest impeccable.
Snowfield under wall much smaller compared to a month ago, yet at tour end exit from secured path and crawling to dry part on right side without winter gear quite nasty. First tried left side (facing wall), seemed easier initially and admit after realizing gully depth I got nicely worried how we'd get out. If we two were quite delayed at exit, not clear how older guy (no winter gear) we met soon below bivouac reached first protections (buddy thought maybe turned back below due to inability to exit steep gully and went up again). Apart from path finding issues, this snowfield was the most problematic part of otherwise nice hike.
Belopeški lakes from Rob nad Zagačami.1
Exit onto solid ground.2
The upper gully is hikeable; before entering VDV, one must climb over the remaining snow.3
Zagače sinkhole4
Mangart mountain range5
(+3)like
redbull4. 08. 2018 00:38:28
Nice, that snow won't run out this year.
Path via ridge and down possible, but more or less climbing in opposite direction, not many do your /reverse one.

Good luck
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ranyhyn5. 08. 2018 16:39:27
Yesterday hiked:
Belopeška lakes - Via della vita - Vevnica - V koncu špica - Kotova špica - back to bivouac Tarvisio - Mangart - bivouac Nogara - Belopeška lakes.

Regarding the snowfield at the entrance - need to cross cca 5m hard snow (narrowest part of snowfield in the picture). Since I had crampons and ice axe, I went over the snow, but it looked like you can quite easily avoid the snow right by the wall. Once past the snow no more major issues, as cables are already after some 5m and help you reach the "hole", where as I read was formerly the entrance or to where you had to descend.
1
(+6)like
2061alessio18. 08. 2018 16:24:46
On behalf of Gorski Vodniki FJK -Guide Alpine FVG- for safety we have officially closed ferrata Via della Vita, we placed closure signs on the path in the scree in stara planini/alpe vecchia and at bivouac A.Busettini/ former CAI Tarvisio; now this part is only alpinistic ascent, Alessio x CAI Tarvisio.
(+13)like
bbugari118. 08. 2018 16:34:43
Right. This anyway wasn't a hiking trail but alpinistic ascent.
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