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| viharnik13. 09. 2015 10:51:24 |
I agree, there you just belay. I myself am quite confident on the II descent, steeper down only alpinists with far more rock experience and the necessary fitness climb safely.
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| dprapr13. 09. 2015 18:18:30 |
Definitely one of the nicer tours in this part of Julijcev! Especially the Pinja ridge is nice, real pleasure climbing. But not at all as easy as Rok mentions. And training is needed also for normal ascent on some longer 2000er, not just for IV.
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| ljubitelj gora13. 09. 2015 20:04:34 |
Very hard ridge, airy, we belayed on some sections, descent from Pelc top above Klonica needs great caution. If I compare this ridge with Zeleniški, Zeleniške are much easier for me, no need to belay.
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| mito300014. 09. 2015 07:03:24 |
Since I do most tours solo it's clear such peaks are unreachable for me. With more experienced company more goes like e.g. Slovenska to Triglav, Zeleniške špice, though even there without belaying. But this ridge seems per info still much harder and more exposed. Maybe someday :-)
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| Dr.ejči14. 09. 2015 08:39:13 |
...and especially much longer than Zeleniške.
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| lijaneja19. 07. 2016 21:53:20 |
Nice hike. You can also go nicely under the window without rope on the right side.
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| ljubitelj gora19. 07. 2016 23:33:39 |
...you wrote that too lightly, the ridge really only for those with experience and who know rope technique.
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| korl20. 07. 2016 07:46:13 |
 old love really never rusts
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| dprapr20. 07. 2016 08:37:40 |
One of the nicest hikes around here!
Just so no one really takes those 70 degrees on the 13th picture seriously.
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| ljubitelj gora20. 07. 2016 12:52:58 |
Juš, you too were a complete anti-talent for rope technique 10 years ago, until you started in AO. Last year the three of us traversed the ridge and I was with two who master rope technique.
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| lijaneja20. 06. 2017 21:53:01 |
Has anyone been up there recently?
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| dprapr28. 06. 2019 07:06:07 |
Nice pictures, good hike.
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| panda28. 06. 2019 07:39:04 |
congratulations, real "tough guys".
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| Razbojnik30. 06. 2019 19:24:34 |
Congratulations on the tour!
Maybe it doesn't fit exactly here, but do you know what the path from the shelter below Špička to the Škrbina behind Grad is like and then from Škrbina to the saddle Čez Brežice? Apparently they repaired some protections last year ...
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| taubi430. 06. 2019 22:34:05 |
On Friday and Saturday we ascended Pelc nad Klonicami, Veliki Pelc and Srednji Pelc. But this is not the ascent of three youngsters or three experienced old cats full of energy like Jovan or Tone. It was the ascent of one late-young alpinist and two average sixty-year-olds, one of whom had a slightly worse day.
On Friday we set off a little after four from Bavšice towards the Shelter below Špička. We arrived there with the fading daylight. The shelter wasn't open this weekend either. We settled in the winter room and quickly fell asleep.
In the morning we rose with the sun. After all morning routines we headed towards today's objectives at half past seven. In the notch behind Grad we roped up and proceeded to the summit. As long as the ridge goes steeply up, climbing is no problem for us either. But of course that doesn't hold for vertical down jumps, even if they're only about 3 meters high. Iztok belayed us at all three such spots. Once you're on the rope and know you can't slip anywhere, it's pretty straightforward climbing. Two of the three I could now downclimb unroped, except the jump in Bos's pic No.20. Upwards from the first go though.
From the notch to PNK we took one hour fifteen. Seemed pretty quick to us. After a short snack we continued along the ridge. At Veliki Pelc at ten to ten, Srednji at twenty past ten. Looked like valley by mid-afternoon. No, that's when things got tricky. Looking at Zadnji Pelc we immediately skipped it. Decided to descend to Nizki vrh via Zajčje police. Started down looking for the passage. Already down to 2000-2100m, no sign of ledges. Iztok reread the description on his phone and figured we need to look more towards Zadnji Pelc. But that way only steep gullies. Then he suggested return to SP, descend to ZP and seek passages to Zajčje police there. My proposal, clock noon, return same way to Škrbina v Gradu then through Bala to Bavšice since we know the path. After short think both agreed. Climbed back to ridge, reached PNK just before two. Then descent started, much harder than ascent. Many places couldn't figure where we went up easy. All descents felt crumbly and dangerous. On such descents always tell myself at top: "Ivo, why'd you do this". Promise myself it's my last such tough tour. But moment on firm ground, thinking of next similar.
Though no belays on return, descent took two solid hours. Then arduous drop over Brežice to Bavšice. Water low, really glad for thin stream at Hunting hut. Dragged to the car around eight.
So: story of two average old hikers with lots of will less strength - but reached the top.
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