Repov Cirque-Silver Saddle-Planjava-Kamnik Saddle-K. Bistrica
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| Irina1. 09. 2011 01:12:39 |
@Jany 31.8.2011
The rocky gully isn't as unfriendly as it looks at first glance. Plenty of holds and footholds, so ascent isn't that demanding, but gotta stay focused cuz it's exposed too. Otherwise it's always relative what's demanding.
Added a photo from last year showing the entry to the gully. At saddle continue left on short ridge and you're on the grass.
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| Jany1. 09. 2011 17:35:00 |
Not quite sure @Irina we mean the same passage. Adding photos.
Thanks anyway.
LP
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| pikec11. 09. 2011 18:43:18 |
Jany, if not mistaken your path is old hunter's path which leads toward summit, Irina yours to srebrno sedlo. Otherwise easiest to srebrno sedlo go under saddle slightly left. lP
Grega
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| Jany2. 09. 2011 07:51:51 |
... and light so you shine thru whistle.
Anyway now have so much info gotta try this once more.
LP
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| Janez Seliškar2. 09. 2011 09:09:31 |
Irina talks about the variant exit from Repov Kot to Srebrno Sedlo.
Jany describes the passage from Repov Kot to Planjava meadows.
So there are two paths for the approach to Planjava from Repov Kot!!
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| turbo2. 09. 2011 09:18:02 |
Of course, the one over Srebrno Sedlo is a bit easier, technically and in terms of orientation. Jany's path goes to the meadows, exactly. There by the cave go left over the jump and you are on the grasses. The exact spot of the jump is hard to say after so many years, but it was more fiddly than demanding.  And once you are over, you can really continue with poles, although the grasses are quite steep. And I did it then by descending via Srebrno and Repov Kot . . .
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| Volk7. 09. 2011 13:49:42 |
Anyway, I don't know what jump is being talked about here ...
'Pr požganmu macesnu' (that's what hunters call that scenic promontory) under overhangs to the rocky gully. Up it and soon left over it and up steep grasses to the larch under the walls. Left behind it a gully opens downward. You can also go through it and soon right upward into the grassy gully - shorter jump, even nicer to cross the exposed rock (usually a cairn) to the grassy gully, which brings you upward to the scree at the bottom of the Planjava meadows. To Sukalnik or to the summit of Planjava you find the passages yourself.
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| LidijaJesih16. 09. 2011 19:18:04 |
The more I looked, the clearer it became that I had to lock the office and head to the mountains with makeup and a bit later than usual. Good thing everything is more or less always packed, so I just change and pick the upper one between two ideas. The road to Jermanca is repaired, only the last bend is hard to drive, but it doesn't add more than 5 minutes to the path. I pick up the only hitchhiker in the car, we part in Klin, he to Kamniško, me to Repov kot. And then there was no living soul. The path is as beautiful as I remember it, easy to follow once you're on it. Just watch out at the larch from the description, where you can miss the path turning right. Up to there it's a hiking path (steep though), beyond that not for the inexperienced anymore. Already the first rock step can cause problems, scrambling over the jump even more so. Today I went up the right gully, and I agree with @volk (above). First time I went left of both gullies, on a short slab that then turns into easy terrain, the right gully is crumbly and a bit annoying, though pegged. Zeleniške Špice were deserted (oh, yet another wish in the queue), Planjava almost, on it I meet the acquaintance from the start again. I praise the newly repaired path to Kamniško sedlo, cables are new, they even swept a bit. I don't go to the hut, since the descent on the scree is too long, this time I enter it right at the top and descend all the way left to the end. A bit more and I'm back at the car. This end is beautiful, beautiful. It'll see me again
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| janez316. 09. 2011 20:06:55 |
Lidija, you misunderstood Volk. You took the classic approach to Srebrno sedlo via Repov kot and today in the final part chose the right gully for ascent to the Zeleniške špic ridge. But Volk describes another path that starts at the "larch from the description" and turns left already there. You're mixing these two a bit.
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| LidijaJesih16. 09. 2011 20:15:07 |
Yes, on this side. One page back, for @andejep volk describes what I mentioned. Crumbliness of the right gully with the ridge and left option. Anyway, there's no big choice there. And I also checked that with the larches, I think I could do it too
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| Volk16. 09. 2011 21:07:06 |
Actually both Lidija and Janez are right. I roughly described the PATHLESS crossing from Repov kot to Planjava meadows, Lidija went this time through Repov kot to Srebrno sedlo. Otherwise the trail towards Srebrno before that burned larch really turns right a bit 'awkwardly' (read hidden), as the little path invites us to a scenic promontory, where it should be clear something's wrong because it ends before the overhangs.
Lidija's variant this time in the upper part is undoubtedly more difficult (crumbly) than the easiest crossing there on the left ('just' short jump).
All together is real child's play compared to the Zeleniške Špice ridge.
Best regards and good luck.
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| janez316. 09. 2011 21:14:12 |
Lidija, sorry. That "above" misled me, one page back what you write holds.
And a picture with the key larch.
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| Volk16. 09. 2011 21:18:15 |
Undoubtedly the most beautiful detail of the mentioned pathless crossing.
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| Irina16. 09. 2011 22:23:51 |
Yes, you're right, I had the "classic" exit from Repov kot in mind, you're talking about "delicacies". Unfortunately that starting point to the green meadows is unknown to me.
Volk 16.9.2011
Years ago I climbed-crossed the Zeleniške Špice ridge with friends. But if you ask me today where we entered, I don't remember anymore.
The ridge didn't seem too demanding back then. In memory beautiful views and my lead climber remained. He was dressed in some colorful Hawaiian shorts and, because he was scared (I don't even know why he decided to come with us) those shorts were shaking so much that halfway I got annoyed and said I won't go behind him anymore. He was emitting such bad energy.
But fate wanted otherwise and again on some other path (over Plamenice) I ended up in the wall behind him and it wasn't pleasant. Strange are the ways of the Lord.
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| Volk17. 09. 2011 22:04:57 |
Irina.
Indeed fear can emit bad energy too. Even more so if during a very demanding mountain tour the trouser legs in front of you keep shaking constantly.
But no way around it. One must admit and accept that people are different. Luckily the guy (despite the shakes) got away well, you were undoubtedly made of the right stuff.
You say the ridge didn't seem too demanding? With protection or without?
But we must objectively admit that crossing Zeleniške Špice is still an alpinistic feat.
Best and good luck.
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| Irina17. 09. 2011 23:47:29 |
Volk 17.9.2011
Of course the Špice are climbing fun. No, we weren't roped, although we had personal gear with us. Only on one part, where from one of the saddles you had to climb a longer very airy ridge and that very crumbly, I belayed. Otherwise it went ok.
Actually, when younger you're also braver. But farewell to many I knew gives some awe of the mountains. The winner is the one who knows to turn back just below the summit if conditions no longer suit continuing. The mountain will always be there and you can always return and try again.
I learned climbing in one of the AO, but my home club didn't bother much with trainees, except the essentials. They really couldn't do any "prestigious" tours with us and we were more "not needed".
But I was lucky and met members of AO Nova Gorica. They had per internal rules the obligation that for applying to foreign mountains you need to do 5 climbs with trainees. Believe me, I was "sold out" for several summers. They were wonderful guys who taught me a lot and with whom I felt as safe in the wall as in the valley.
Haven't climbed for a long time, but the acquired knowledge allows me to really enjoy demanding paths. I can reach what without that knowledge wouldn't be possible.
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| romy17. 06. 2012 21:03:13 |
Interesting this path description, but the following fact remains: even the most precise description with larch pictures doesn't help if the visitor of somewhat more demanding unmarked paths can't read from the hiking map and limits to subjective path descriptions. The mentioned path is (very) well trodden, almost the entire path and its branches are visible (drawn on the map too).
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| garmont26. 09. 2013 19:19:44 |
Today to Planjava via Repov Kot.
Also visit to the higher western summit and then towards Kamniško Sedlo. Descent via scree and to Jurček for radler. Weather and company - super.
Regards
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