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Ridge traverse Kranjska Rinka - Skuta

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redbull28. 05. 2020 09:39:50
Ridge Traverse Kr.R-Skuta (27.05.20)

Morning work, afternoon we headed via Žmavčarje towards the bivouac below Skuta. Pace wasn't moderate, but quite hard with all the gear. No snow here anymore. We climbed to Kranjska Rinka via the nice initial gully and continued to the summit II-III. Pretty good for 2.5h. The colleague who went back to the bivouac with David was waiting for us on this beautiful ridge. Start more to the right and really it's incredibly crumbly terrain. Previous years probably similar, or this winter made an exception. Finding easier passages to the lowest point is the essence at least for me on this tour, which I realized only later. Also on the left we bypassed some rocks somewhere. From the middle onwards the ascent begins and here it's pure rock poetry. It was really great, over the famous Horse it's not even that hard if you tackle it in such nice weather. There was just a breeze as the forecaster predicted. Higher up there was also the renowned traverse, which is super regarding holds and rock. There was some snow, but no need to step on it. Through the beautiful window and we were already on Kraljica. The ridge took us 1h45min and even that with quite some groping in the initial descent. Descent back to bivouac, where winter gear is mandatory on the flank. Judging by the footprints they went without them too, good they stayed alive. At bivouac we pick up the colleague and in the lower forest part we turn on headlamps. It was a really great afternoon with evening extension, batteries more than sufficiently charged.

Žmavčarji.1
view back, we turned to the right2
3
beginning below Kranjska Rinka4
5
6
Kranjska Rinka and playing with the drone7
descent and beginning of the crossing8
9
ridge, already better10
11
12
horse13
horse14
David more than happy15
photographed from afar at the bivouac below Skuta, right on the horse16
View back17
traverse to the right, nothing special. good steps, rock18
19
snow no longer poses an obstacle, probably until autumn20
at the beautiful window21
22
Skuta23
24
Descent25
26
mandatory winter gear27
28
now together down to the valley29
view once more back at the beautiful ridge, especially from the middle onwards30
31
(+19)like
Jovan Cukut28. 05. 2020 11:07:55
Congratulations on the traverse. You two went the easier variant, check out my slightly different one, from top of KR right and that original in the tower (per Mihelič), more left of the right traverse towards the window, which you say is nothing special.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM2F9T2fU_huaUF2xp6nbqkzIVz5ffwk5ImDrOUteyqxiHBNomY03ieiWlitRa5yw?key=TmJiTVFhY0M1c0tLTlFYUzA1Qk5vVnZURWNNbDdR



(+12)like
redbull28. 05. 2020 11:19:46
Thanks, when I sit at the computer I'll draw ours, because I'm interested, I think most go more to the right, we didn't go either, but the friability was big
(+2)like
Nejc78728. 05. 2020 13:25:02
Congratulations on the tour! And for the pace too...
Good luck!
(+4)like
zokipoki28. 05. 2020 13:42:54
Super!
(+3)like
lijaneja28. 05. 2020 13:53:32
Super, Dejan, excellent photo report. On one side I'm drooling, on the other I'm hesitating between courage and sissyconfused
(+6)like
dprapr28. 05. 2020 18:02:21
Can't be true, so I'm not the only one who hasn't been on this ridge yet.smile
(+5)like
garmont28. 05. 2020 18:26:17
Drago, you're not. big
(+4)like
jocjoc28. 05. 2020 19:04:56
You are fantastic; I'm envious of you, but I sincerely wish it to you. Good luck further.
(+2)like
taubi429. 05. 2020 01:21:16
David and Dejan: congratulations! I'm rejoicing with you, and I'm very much looking forward to Jovan's return to Hribi.net
(+3)like
Dr_Ursic29. 05. 2020 07:51:17
Ridge Traverse Kranjska Rinka - Skuta

Hello.
Recording of the ascent path to Kranjska Rinka via south wall (direct from bivouac) and then ridge traverse Rinka - Skuta.
Wonderful ridge and unforgettable experience.

Jovan Cukut.
Super excellent tour with incredible footage (chamois). Fitness bomb. You gave me the drive for some extensions to your tour, big smile.
LPD!
(+3)like
jan7129. 05. 2020 08:38:31
Hats off to you guys!

(+2)like
zokipoki29. 05. 2020 08:57:40
Good video, for me just the right length and due to conditions also aesthetically nice. Window on the route is exceptional. Nice passable ridge, but for me maybe yes, maybe no, technically partially too demandingnasmeh...noticed your caution on video, praiseworthy and good luck further!
Did you go to Rinka from memory or study something before?
(+2)like
Dr_Ursic29. 05. 2020 09:16:54
Zokipoki thanks.
Yes all gear always with us as seems right to me. Use up to each individual's need.
I climbed around Rinka last year exploring passages so this time route already in head. velik nasmeh
(+1)like
zokipoki29. 05. 2020 10:17:27
Super! nasmeh
(+1)like
alyas24. 10. 2024 10:58:32
SKUTA - KR.RINKA and over its subordinate ridges on the eastern side

We set the tour in nice weather quite ambitiously with big mountaineering or, in the last part between Skuta and Kranjska Rinka, already alpinistic goals, and almost too extensive for the now too short autumn day: warm-up over Veliki greben (between Žmavčarji and Gams.skret), then to Sleme under Skuta and then over Streža and SE ridge to Skuta. In a pretty fast pace and with a lot of fitness reserve and the fact that we had already known those ridges before, from parking V Koncu to the top of Skuta in just over 6 hours, which is pretty super for younger retirees!? But a new story starts at the ridge traverse from Skuta to Kranjska Rinka, where much more protection and technical knowledge was needed and there was no time for looking at the watch, as the traverse demands full concentration and offers plenty of climbing challenges.

The difficulty of the descent from Skuta down is average II, but due to bad rock, friability and scree loading it rather increases a bit in places than decreases. Above the window there is a fairly demanding slab, below it also narrow and hard. The detail of climbing over the steep, exposed and nasty slab just above Konj seemed to me personally very hard too – but now there is a prepared anchor for abseil there, we abseiled also over Konj (opposite direction up approx. IV, approx. 7m, down without rope would of course be even harder). The continuation over the intermediate part, from afar seemingly more level part between Skuta and Kr.Rinka, still presents a whole bunch of up-down climbing over narrow edges and pointy peaks with abundance of exposure (like financiers in miniature). Retreat is possible from the middle onwards to the south side, but even those few narrow and loaded ledges demand full focus. Then follows the ascent itself, somewhere to 3/4 to the top of Kr.Rinka in difficulty also around I-II, but the ridge soon becomes wider and transitions into broader terrain, so it loses a bit at least on exposure, but still due to crumbly nature one has to watch especially for slipping.

From Kranjska Rinka down to the bivouac on Mali podi and then to the valley there are already known hiking paths and they are currently without any specials, although the consequences of this summer's thunderstorm in these areas are still very visible, but luckily not on the paths over Gamsov skret and over Žmavčarji.
we start up across Gamsov skret even before dawn1
when we exit the forest and cross the gully under Kogl we can already view Veliki greben ahead2
approach to the start of the ridge, below the wall right, then along the wall slightly down and around, scree and branches nicely cleared this year3
in the first - lower part of the Veliki greben traverse4
view down, 3 or 4 short old and somewhat frayed cables in lower and mid section still serve their purpose5
somewhere in the middle section of the Veliki greben traverse6
Appropriate protection is highly recommended for balancing.7
View back at the continuously very exposed ridge.8
Towards the summit of Veliki greben with a view ahead to Skuta.9
On Veliki greben with a view of the next two ascents, which from afar do not look so difficult.10
The ascent to Veliki greben from the bivouac under Skuta is fairly straightforward, and if you collect 2000m peaks, you have it.11
At the start of the ascent to Streža, Sleme below and Veliki greben in the background.12
In the first part of the ascent over Streža there are some harder sections, average I-II.13
Upward view during ascent over Streža.14
Over the hardest part of the traverse, detail of a III that is hard to bypass.15
In the final part of the ascent over Streža.16
During the ascent, our gazes keep drifting to today's main objective - the connecting ridge between Skuta and Kr. Rinka.17
Arrival at the marked trail where fixed cables offer assistance.18
With the help of the fixed protections, the continued ascent to Skuta is much easier.19
In the last section of the marked path just below the summit of Skuta.20
We will hopefully descend through this notch on the ridge later during the traverse from Skuta to Kr. Rinka.21
Still life at the summit of Skuta; despite nice weather midweek, it had few visitors.22
View towards Grintavec, probably the most photographed vista from Skuta.23
and view towards Kranjska Rinka, where we headed.24
backwards down and with belay from above it still goes.25
when airy corners and pinnacles come, it's no longer so fun.26
promised photo from before – through window or door on the ridge between Skuta and Kr. Rinka.27
view back, to locally smooth and good rock on the ridge, which is exception rather than reality.28
how loose and crumbly it is shows this picture.29
this is detail of abseil over Konj, where IV down would be really problematic.30
view of descent from Konj from below.31
view of airy hole and glacier remnant on north-lake side.32
and view from ridge to south side, where we avoid hardest problems on ridge later.33
there are quite a few such and similar airy places.34
view back on climbed SV ridge from Skuta, when all bad is behind us.35
in last part of ascent to Kr. Rinka, as ridge widens comfortably.36
just below summit of Kr. Rinka, when we finally unrope.37
on top of Kranjska Rinka.38
logbook on Kr. Rinka.39
view from Kranjska Rinka to neighboring Koroška Rinka.40
view from Kr. Rinka down to Male pode and our forenoon-visited Vel. greben, which mist started covering.41
we descend towards the bivouac below Skuta on Mali Podi and then down through Žmavčarje to the valley42
(+18)like
JanG24. 10. 2024 11:41:30
Nice tour. Super description.
(+4)like
lijaneja24. 10. 2024 12:01:34
One of my rare wishes that won't come true in homeland. From Kranjska Rinka over Konj to Skuta.jezen
Very nicely described and documented. A bit doubtful about real grade of Konj with four. Can you give comparison of difficulty with summit part of Oltarček (Falusa), if you've been up?
(+1)like
mosovnik24. 10. 2024 12:19:52
Very well documented. We in early 70s last century (mainly self-taught like me), took the traverse as serious alp.undertaking. Myself only (1x from dir. K.Rinka - Skuta) and thought I was "tough guy", later turned out I was one who overestimated abilities compared to other "gravel guys" we met up there.
"AlYas", good luck and nice to "read" you.
(+3)like
lino24. 10. 2024 19:03:46

Tone don't be too modest. Never say never.
Alyas, really nice photos and excellent comments. Great team! If someone here says won't repeat the tour, can only say smart. This is tour for the initiated. Good luck!
(+4)like
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