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Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m)

garmont9. 09. 2012 16:15:17

Expecting crowds of hikers in Logar Valley, I set off today to a solitary peak lying in the shadow of Ojstrica 450 meters higher.
I started the ascent in Logarski kot and climbed through Grlo to a little-visited pathless summit. Descended past Koča na Klemenči jami to Dom planincev.
Grlo is a quite pronounced gully left of Planjava and right of Rjavčki vrh. In the lower part we climb over rock steps, sometimes protected by pegs, following faded markings all the way. Once the path was marked, now we can speak of pathlessness. Of course I met no one on the way, that's exactly why I went there.
Regards

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) Morning sun on Rjavčki vrh

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) Zatrep Grla

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) Steep over rocky steps

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) The jump, which we overcome with the help of old pitons

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) Above the jump we continue on the right side along the wall of Planjava

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) Matkovo okno

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) We cross to the left side

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) Path towards the cirque between RV and Planjava

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) Towards the summit

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) View from the summit

Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca (1898m) Rjavčki vrh or Planinščica

(+4)

mosovnik9. 09. 2012 20:10:14

Nice tour. I returned about three weeks ago from Planjava through Grlo downhill, at spots searched a bit for "lost" path. This path is steep, especially after hours "raging" up in the skies.

http://s9.mojalbum.com/6972499_17589300_19954761/16-08-2012-planjava-skarje-grlo/19954761.jpg

http://s9.mojalbum.com/6972499_17589300_19954760/16-08-2012-planjava-skarje-grlo/19954760.jpg

http://s9.mojalbum.com/6972499_17589300_19954762/16-08-2012-planjava-skarje-grlo/19954762.jpg

robi149. 09. 2012 20:18:03

I join @mosovnik's opinion on "lost" path, but today knowing the route I'd definitely take this shortcut to valley again!

garmont9. 09. 2012 21:01:37

The route is nicely wired, but no talk of any particularly visible path. Downhill it's harder to follow, as it usually ends with steep drops.

pohodnik386. 07. 2013 17:23:14

Today to Rjavčki vrh through Grlo. Weather forecast rather bad with afternoon thunderstorms, so in Logar Valley just after 5am. At Dom Planincev parking not allowed due to event. Drive to Logarski kot where I park, get ready and hit the trail. Summits were in clouds so I decide to go only to Rjavčki vrh, otherwise planned higher. For off-trail hiking over the fence, across meadow into forest. No idea where the path goes so I go straight towards Grlo visible from afar. Worried about snowfield but it turned out not to obstruct the path at all. So progressed nicely towards the summit. It was wet and slippery, twice strayed a bit off path velik nasmeh

but found it quickly when vertical rocks blocked. Still some views but summits as mentioned in clouds. Stayed long at summit, watching other hikers, two heading towards Škarje, group on Krofička quite noisy. Descend towards Klemenča jama, under Ojstrica still lots of snowfield. So descend left side along snowfield and cross gully where snow ends and step on marked path. Meet quite a few hikers still ascending. Stop at Klemenča jama, cold radler hit the spot. Descent to Dom Planincev which was quite noisy and along road to Logarski kot back to car. It was nice nasmeh

Regards! Tone nasmeh

Logarski kot - to the right behind the bajta and over the fence...

(+4)

geppo30. 03. 2014 00:15:55

Grlo
Gully between Planjava and Rjavčki vrh. Years ago I turned back because ice slabs deterred me from the feat. Now a colleague ("pika") encourages me for a similar undertaking.
Just after 6am we start from Logarski kot and soon on huge amounts of snow that rushed into the valley in recent weeks. Initially advancing on avalanche debris mounds thinking no crampons or ice axe needed. But things turn quickly and in considerable steepness follows putting on crampons, stowing poles and preparing ice axe. Front crampon teeth quite loaded. Easier in smooth icy steep than on lumpy penetrating avalanche debris.
Pika leads confidently and I follow her crampon tracks. She knows well how to find the "path" and I surrender to her leading.
All rock jumps nicely filled in. When we reach sunny side disturbed by rockfall from wall above and penetrating snow. Steepness doesn't relent. Ascent to Rjavčki vrh drains my energy and snow already wet and dangerous for slip. View to Škarje tells us no one been here since last snowfall. All untouched. Under S wall of Ojstrica blocking sun gets noticeably cold. Lower again fighting avalanche debris and rocks masked in snow.
Finally arguing where path to Klemenča should be. Searching higher then lower. At that famous larch on rock we find (markings). High snow and avalanches change everything... Klemenča open. We after approx. 6:30h strenuous and demanding walk need deserved refreshment.
It was nice, as photos by both participants show
lp

This happens when avoiding avalanche terrain

(+13)

garmont30. 03. 2014 07:41:39

Congratulations, @geppo. Nice. nasmeh

(+2)

geppo30. 03. 2014 07:57:05

Thanks "garmond", and congrats to "piki" too nasmeh

(+2)

dprapr30. 03. 2014 11:21:17

Zlatko, nice!
I see you enjoyed!
Lp

(+1)

pika30. 03. 2014 12:36:35

Strenuous but nice tour, worth every step. And the beer at the end more than deserved nasmeh

(+3)

Edina30. 03. 2014 14:40:30

Congrats pika&geppo. Really well done, especially given the conditions. nasmeh

(+1)

brina30. 03. 2014 15:40:19

I was impatiently waiting to hear from where Pika would report. Congrats to both for the nice tour.

(+1)

ejti30. 03. 2014 17:53:33

Bravo Alenka and regards!

(+1)

garmont2. 04. 2014 18:46:57

Today did the tour in the opposite direction to @pika and @geppo.
Hoped for some shade on the descent, but I miscalculated.
Yeah, quite a strenuous tour that could have ended quite differently. Namely, after descending through the last gully of Grlo an avalanche released behind us and carried away all the snow above Grlo. Luckily the avalanche took the path over the 20 meter rocky drop on the left and fell into the valley for a full 8 minutes where it stopped. If we had been 10 minutes slower the avalanche would have got us above Grlo, and then.....
Regards

Crossing the avalanche debris takes considerable strength

Thanks for the path, Krofička in the background

Descent on excellent upper snow that didn't crust

Crossing avalanche debris above Grlo. All snow on the right has crashed into the valley

(+11)

geppo2. 04. 2014 20:44:16

Garmond &...sincere congratulations!!
Glad about your message. Just today I was thinking when the repeat will be? Got quite a few questions and mail. Interest was big because it's more attractive than Turski žleb where there are now queues.
The tour is strenuous from any direction you take it. Dangerous also because of the multitude of gullies from which avalanche debris flows into Grlo (as evidenced by meters and meters of debris at the ascent). So you never know if everything has already poured down Grlo? Which is impossible to predict already because some gullies are more sun-exposed than others which are northern. Personally I had no fear of avalanche before the cirque (it was cold and everything still in shade). But when we crawled out of Grlo into the cirque in the sun and climbed towards the ridge ledges I was a bit worried. The sun had perpendicular rays into the wall of Rjavčki vrh and it got hot...
Sometimes it's enough to be at the wrong place at the wrong time...

hope this reply won't be followed by an "avalanche" of pontificating and debating..., because the topic is (Current conditions)
regards

(+2)

garmont2. 04. 2014 21:29:26

Thanks geppo. Today we really got away lucky. Warning to possible repeaters though, there's still another batch of snow above Grlo waiting.

ziki6. 04. 2014 12:48:45

Correction to the title. Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca. Rjavčki vrh or Rjavca. Planinšca is something completely different. Some foreign saying goes "READ THE MAP AND ASK THE PEASANT". And best regards.

(+1)

geppo6. 04. 2014 16:27:08

Thanks to Janez Slapnik for the warning. "Garmond" made a mistake and added the letters "č,i" which changed Planinšca to "Planinščica".
So for me the correct title is: Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca 1898m
But this is a bit incomprehensible to me: Rjavčki vrh or Rjavca. Planinšca is something completely different..
Mr. Slapnik, please explain the above? What is correct then? Rjavčki vrh or Rjavca, because then in continuation Planinšca is negated and stated as something completely different…
For me it would be correct: Rjavčki vrh or Planinšca 1897m
Regarding
"KARTU ČITAJ I SELJAKA PITAJ"
That's a good saying if you're looking for a path from place A to B. So use the map and ask locals along the way. Perfect lesson not to get lost, not to "wander"! But for correct use of place names it's sometimes debatable because locals use names known to them passed down generations (nothing wrong with that). It would be debatable if one cited the mountain name "ROGAC" as I heard they call Veliki Rogatec. Many such names sound different among locals than written on maps.
regards and thanks for the warning. Many such errors happen in our posts. Some from hasty writing, lack of knowledge, carelessness and more. So every warning about an error is welcome.

(+3)

ziki8. 04. 2014 16:05:58

Rjavčki vrh or Rjavca should be correct because that's how it's written in all guidebooks and maps. "PLANINŠCA" is a steep pasture in the rocks of Rjavca looking north. Three approaches possible but I don't recommend any without gear and at least some climbing practice. First approach from Klemenče cave along the path to Peski below the Bivouac. Then strictly right towards the break in Rjavca rocks and up the first ramp above the break. In the almost vertical gully there are still step loops from quite rusted thick steel wire. Don't rely on it because it's probably been there nearly 100 years. Personally I knew a "hunter" who probably last went there after WWII and shot a Rušeyec (rock ptarmigan) in Planinšca. From Planinšca (upwards) exit straight to the top of Rjavca. The second is much harder right of Planinšca under overhangs and above big break to the west and exits to Grlo. I advise against solo. If you decide go at least two. I had to leave two pegs and 40m of rope there 40 years ago. Best regards.

(+4)

geppo10. 04. 2014 18:32:04

This weekend promises bad weather per forecasts. But expected more from this morning.
In the morning conditions in Logarska promised higher ascent which then turned. Morning was cold -2 and some snowflakes from clouds that wind was merrily chasing.
Then warming hit and nothing left but return to valley. Lots of snow on north slopes still and more will come...
Looked a bit towards Rjavčki and roughly imagined per "ziki" description where the loop remains are? "ziki" did I mark the right gully?
Morning passed in exploring and wandering beautiful nature. Didn't bother myself as wasn't on any summit.
Connoisseurs of this area will know from photos where I wandered...?
regards