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Rjavina and Vrbanove špice

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janez.novak16. 06. 2012 11:36:20
Despite Lynx's answer, I also have the following question: From Kot over Vrbanove špice descend past Staničeva over Peklo to Kot. Besides usual gear for dry conditions (helmet, self-belay) do I need ice axe and crampons now? Thanks for the answer.
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viharnik16. 06. 2012 14:09:07
In Kot there are surely still some snow patches that can be firm or surface-frozen early in the morning or late afternoon. At least an ice axe never hurts in early summer.
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Arafat7619. 06. 2012 18:54:48
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adnap19. 06. 2012 21:57:18
@ Arafat76
On Sunday 17.06 there were a few more of us in these parts. We had a similar tour. Start in Kot, over Rjavina to Stanič hut, then to Očak, made good steps on the snow patch nasmeh and extended to Cmir and for the end over wonderful Vrbanove Špice to the valley. On the whole tour only the snow patch they mention on the way to Cmir was problematic
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urbancek30. 06. 2012 18:28:30
On the last day of June, I headed to the mountains above Kot. Actually I could name the tour "Over three ridges"velik nasmehvelik nasmehvelik nasmeh Started from the parking in Kot, just before five in the morning. Plan was Rjavina and back over V. Špice, but despite the heat I pulled it to Cmir too. Nice tour, in such hot weather also quite demanding, since there aren't many ways to avoid the sun raysnasmeh In such conditions you need to carry really more liquid than usualmežikanje
Path is ok. Regards!
The day is slowly waking up..1
What a beauty...2
Sorry for the black spots, obviously dust in the camera :)3
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5
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Classic...7
Ship:)8
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10
11
A bit more, and I'll be able to look to the Bohinj side :)12
This little ridge too, and we're there... :)13
Classic 2...14
Očak from the top15
His wife and the others... :)16
Descending...17
Already heading towards Cmir...18
I don't know what's scary here??!19
It greets me and retreats...20
Summit21
A little later clouds started gathering decently around Z. Julijcev, so the best weather today was around Triglav...22
Thanks for the cold Radler!!23
State of the glacier...24
V. Vrbanova25
Yes, I was up there too...26
Dance floor, taken from Sp. Vrbanova špica.27
I'm going down...28
Soon I'll finish the sausage :)29
And I'm out of the wall...30
Locally overhanging slabs...31
At the bottom. It still burns above...32
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ljubitelj gora17. 07. 2012 18:29:44
4:30 and already walking on Tominškova path, at the hut a little refreshment, then to Begunjski vrh, descent and towards Cmir, back and ascent to Vrbanove špice and all the way down to the junction for Rjavina, up the climbing path and return along the ridge. Paths without peculiarities.
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urbancek18. 07. 2012 20:08:02
That "gentleman" on the 5th and 6th photo you surely met on the path to Cmir... Or am I wrong?nasmeh
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ljubitelj gora18. 07. 2012 20:56:35
Yes towards Cmir they were..
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Wine14. 08. 2012 01:07:33
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LidijaJesih15. 08. 2012 19:54:52
Two beautiful days on one of the classic Julian journeys. From Kot over Vrbanove Špice to sleep at Stanič, in the washed and not cold morning then to Rjavina via the secured path, down over Mala Rjavina along the ridge to the scree and back to Kot. Today's holiday and masses at Kredarica were noticeable, which was full. Stanič hut as always a pleasant quiet shelter for hikers, probably not fully occupied and friendly. Praise to the caretakers who for many years kindly take care of visitors and at the same time are decisive enough for peace when needed. That's why I like to return to this hut.
Meanwhile some of you could calmly treat your frustrations under some other topic, discussing as usual about people and not problems. Nice that some don't care about others, I won't, for a long time. I understand and respect different opinions, especially if argued and written as opinions, with those who use such forums to treat self-image and spit around, there's no point anyway.
Yes, of course, one more thing: on the path I was without self-belay, just with helmet. And two others too. Friend who was on the path for the first time and doesn't have much experience yet, was equipped with self-belay too. And he said it seemed right to him.
Start of the secured path in Kot to Vrbanove špice1
Steep into the tower below Spodnja Vrbanova2
Narrow passage below the summit, nicely Lojze routed this path3
View towards Visoka Vrbanova and Očak4
A truly special piece of our Julian Alps5
Several times up and several times down6
Meadows below that Visoka7
There tomorrow, Rjavina8
Sunset above Jalovec9
Staničeva hut, friendly, we'll return10
View of yesterday's path11
Ascent to Rjavina12
Steep on scree, not for the vertiginous13
Exposed14
Descent on pegs15
From the top along the ridge back16
Towards Mala Rjavina17
Rjavina, beautiful mountain18
Descent also requires caution19
scree towards Kot20
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nusa16. 08. 2012 07:03:19
Nice Lidija. I also plan to hike Vrbanove Špice this year too, of course with helmet and via ferrata kit. For training I was on Storžek this week.
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SilvestrO16. 08. 2012 15:08:28
Lidija, nice tour,... I saw your signatures when returning to Kot via Vrbanove..., didn't know before, would have said something...zavijanje z očmi, on Stanič you were a group of four...? zmeden
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LidijaJesih16. 08. 2012 15:17:06
Yes, there were four of us. Which one were you, there weren't that many of us?
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Janiel7416. 08. 2012 15:26:58
I was planning a one-day tour exactly in the opposite direction. So up via Rjavina, Stanič, then down via Vrbanove Špice to Kot...Which option seems harder to you? As far as I know mine? Thanks
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sjevnika16. 08. 2012 15:42:05
Hi Lidija,

do you maybe have a pic of the "notorious" descent from the summit of Rjavina, that chimney secured only with pegs and no wire rope. Really curious how it all looks.

Thanks and best, Saša
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LidijaJesih16. 08. 2012 15:43:20
To me, going down via Vrbanove seems harder than up, but it's doable. There are anyway some 200 to 300 extra meters of descent/ascent in between, whichever way you do it. And I wouldn't exactly promote the descent via the secured path from Rjavina. nasmeh
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Janiel7416. 08. 2012 16:14:39
Then my option is "better", if I understand correctly?
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katty16. 08. 2012 16:39:53
Wonderful post Lidijanasmeh. Sincere congrats for this route, it's on my plan for this year too. Maybe in autumnmežikanje.
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mailman16. 08. 2012 17:01:04
Nice, bravo!! I was afraid you'd stop posting!!! nasmehcool
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