Široka peč and Dovški križ
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| pika18. 08. 2014 21:36:07 |
That's how your adventure looked from the safe shelter of Dovški križ. Congrats 
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| dprapr19. 08. 2014 07:59:11 |
@pika, you pictured them nicely!
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| geppo19. 08. 2014 10:39:26 |
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| lijaneja19. 08. 2014 14:54:17 |
My congratulations too.
On the return (from the amphitheater towards DK - from pic 44 onwards) did you encounter any anchors in the lower part and is that short section to the ridge particularly tricky anywhere?
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| JusAvgustin19. 08. 2014 19:14:40 |
Where, I equipped it there in winter. Not hard, just a bit exposed.
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| koma15. 07. 2015 16:07:18 |
Yesterday I too got to stand on Široka peč, my first ascent of this important 2000er in the Martuljek group that's been bugging me for years. I approached via Dovški križ, to somewhat ease the fear of the towers and before that over the Kopic ridge, which isn't much easier difficulty-wise, but that's another story. Over Kopic fog chased me all the way, which then got stuck behind the Dovški križ ridge and surprisingly didn't cross it.
Over the ŠP towers it went without major hitches, probably the fear in my head was much bigger. I climb all towers along the ridge from one side, abseil from the other, except the last (fourth) one, which I bypass right past the little corner and then ascent to the summit is routine. On return I repeat the process in reverse, and there's no lack of gear in the towers...
Sounds simple but in practice it's something else entirely.. as someone already wrote it's serious ridge psychotherapy, especially in poor visibility, lots of exposed climbing II-III, ridge gymnastics, precipitous traverses and deep views.. in short 100% focused all the time. The mountain doesn't have the reputation of hardest approaches for nothing, probably the Amphitheater approach is even harder. An unforgettable day survived in Martuljek wilderness, the only thing spoiling the enjoyment on site was the present fear that fog would engulf me, lurking behind Dovški križ ridge and Oltar, otherwise these are tours that come after you!
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| jedriličar15. 07. 2015 17:36:22 |
Congrats on the completed tour and safe onwards ...
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| dprapr15. 07. 2015 18:17:03 |
Nice combo with Kopic too. Bravo!
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| Branee24. 08. 2016 17:04:43 |
On the summit (last time I had them in my hands there) SP I forgot my sunglasses, if anyone sees this and finds them I'll pay 100e for the effort. The glasses were a gift to me from our Himalaya giant who's sadly no longer with us and irreplaceable for me. Please 
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| ZeK24. 08. 2016 20:00:18 |
Branee
we're going up Friday or Saturday. if I find them, I'll deliver. and don't even think about offering rewards. I can't imagine someone who comes to SP wanting a reward, to return your precious memory.
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| Branee24. 08. 2016 20:18:18 |
Zek 1000x thanks, if I had time I'd go look for them tomorrow but can't. Heartily hope they're there. Thanks
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| ljubitelj gora24. 08. 2016 20:26:52 |
Branee, where did you go to Rokav.
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| palček plezalček25. 08. 2016 12:24:24 |
Branee, yesterday they weren't seen. When did you forget them? In the logbook there's one more person entered this month and 2 at the end of July. Probably not further back.
If ZeK doesn't find them, I can give you their names, maybe you'll find them in some PD.
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| Branee25. 08. 2016 23:34:57 |
I didn't sign in, I don't have that habit. I've almost given up on seeing them again
I was up there on Tuesday via Ogrin-Zupančič..
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| Branee27. 08. 2016 15:45:28 |
Thanks to Tadej for finding and returning the glasses!!
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| alyas29. 09. 2016 20:31:37 |
Martuljek - krnica Za Akom - Amfiteater - Široka peč - ridge to Dovški križ and descent over scree below former bivouac II at Jezerih to Poldov rovt/Vrata
Such mountaineering delicacies have persistently evaded me in past years, so I decided to put an end to it this year once and for all, find good and reliable company and visit Široka peč before my »retirement«.
Whoever knows the route and the difficulty of this mountain, this report on yesterday's conditions will be of little help in planning the tour, for ordinary hikers without appropriate alpinistic knowledge, climbing technique and belaying, it will remain unreachable and/or mostly known only from published photos in this and similar media, which also serves some purpose.
At this time from Martuljek in the approach gullies above Akom and in the Amphitheater due to north shady sides it's already quite cold, so equip accordingly. Over the first serious boulder in the gully above Akom no major difficulties, the rock under the second jump is currently wet and nasty. The hardest jump or passage under the Amphitheater or Krnica for Široka peč under the green buttress has 3 pegs at key points, when belaying it's not superfluous to set up one more system, as it's quite tough. The booklet in the flat box on the green buttress is soaked and unfortunately unusable for signing.
In the Amphitheater there's practically no snow left. The traverse ledge from Amphitheater to Široka peč has quite a bit of scree and small stones, the existing old rope for descent to the notch is a bit short for abseil descent. From the notch to the main summit no major difficulties except two exposed traverses, but these increase when crossing both ridge pillars on the ridge especially for the first approacher, so we left a new peg for belay anchor under the first pillar, the rest of the climbing to its really narrow summit somehow goes (but consider III+).
Stožcasti, the second prominent pillar, has no pegs up to halfway, we also thought of bypassing it, but due to principle: if it's by the grade - it's by the grade, we finally climbed it a bit right of the center upwards and from its relatively wide platform at the top descended down on rope.
From here on the continued ridge traverse technically doesn't exceed II anymore, but its exposure throughout requires full concentration.
For the described route you need sufficient psychophysical condition, essential is knowledge of the terrain and alpinistic skills. For the whole route we used about 9 hours + 1 hour breaks, so the tour in this autumn time regarding day length is still feasible. And finally big thanks to Brane for good company and Juš for all technical support and excellent knowledge of all routes.
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| palček plezalček29. 09. 2016 21:11:32 |
Congratulations to all three.
Between the belay anchor and those three rusted pegs there was a diagonal peg left in the traverse last time. It's really quite below those three mentioned, but if they come out in a fall, at least you don't hit the belay.
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| ZeK29. 09. 2016 21:39:04 |
I was on ŠP, on DK too, but that ridge between them will probably remain only in photos for me.
dreamy. congrats!
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| grega_z_brega29. 09. 2016 21:57:23 |
what studs
nice one, congrats
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