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Široka peč and Dovški križ

kitta30. 06. 2019 23:29:22

Nothing to add, Drago described it all nicely. I attach some snapshots from one of my best mountain experiences.

Thanks Drago!

(+9)

Branee1. 07. 2019 06:44:12

Pure romance, the financerji are something that will be done once too.
Nice, bravo

bos1. 06. 2020 12:09:18

Yesterday along the path Gozd Martuljek - Za Akom - Amphitheater - ridge traverse of Široka peč - Dovški križ - Jugova grapa - Pri treh macesnih - Za Akom.
Conditions for ascent very good, since there is still lots of snow and we took crampons off only twice up to the Amphitheater. On the traverse, one needs to watch every stone, as rarely anything stays in hand.
Nice weather to main summit, then also some snowflakes. Given the difficulty of the tour, it's very warm for you throughout jezik

.
All-day experience that stays forever in memory.

clear sky above Oltarček and Velika Martuljška Ponca

up there from left to right we will walk

The notch between the Poncas is nicely snow-covered.

the small jump is bare, then there is snow again to the main jump

from the logbook onwards it is nicely snow-covered

Kukova špica from the eastern summit, Kepa behind

ridge to the main summit and to Dovški križ

first descent on a rope then ascent to the main summit

when the cross on the top appears and behind on Škrlatica

Visoki Rokav, Škrlatica and Veliki Oltar

Spodnji and Srednji Rokav and the glacier

yesterday in the logbook just over 550 entries

from right to left the path led us across Široka peč

in front Oltarček (Kurček), right Mali Oltar, left behind unnamed peak

at the end it veiled itself in a veil of mystery

(+31)

dprapr1. 06. 2020 21:56:11

Beautiful tour. Congratulations.
On the 52nd picture, in front is Oltarček or ugly chicken (really that shape from the cauldron nasmeh

), right Mali Oltar, left unnamed peak in ridge to Oltar.

(+2)

bos1. 06. 2020 22:48:53

Drago, thanks for correct explanation.

(+1)

Filip_Culjak1. 06. 2020 22:50:37

On Saturday afternoon we came from Zagreb to Gozd Martuljek around 16:30 and headed to bivouac III za Akom where we slept. Next day, Sunday, wake up at 4:15 and after breakfast and cleaning the bivouac, start at 5 towards Široka Peč. It took us 4 hours and 20 minutes to the summit. We signed in the logbook and continued along the ridge to Dovški Križ. From Dovški Križ we descended to Vrata. More in the pictures nasmeh

congratulations also to bos and the team for the mega tour nasmeh

on picture 48 you can see 2/3 of your family.

At 16:30 we arrived in Gozd Martuljek. Despite the forecast it didn't rain and it was really pleasant.

One of our morning targets, Široka Peč (2497 m).

For ascent to bivouac we chose Martuljek waterfalls path which is always fascinating, most in spring time.

Slightly exposed path a few minutes before entering the Za Akom cirque.

It took us an hour and a half to the bivouac. It was around 18:00 and we used the rest of the day to enjoy the views towards Laško :)

Packing up the bivouac and start of today's tour.

The approach gully has quite some snow and considerably eases progress.

At the end of the gully we turn left upwards on a short ramp. Careful as it can be slippery too.

Beautiful Špik (2472 m) and blue sky early in the morning.

Crossing a smaller snowfield towards the jump (III+) below the Amphitheatre.

First easier part of the jump and a bit higher the hardest detail. Here we belay and climb over the jump. Due to cold rock and heavy backpacks this jump seemed harder to me than expected.

View back towards the exit from the jump and Gozd Martuljek far below.

Beautiful Amphitheatre. Wonder of nature :)

At the entry to the known ledge we took a short break and put the crampons down.

Wonderful clouds in the sky above Dovški Križ.

View towards Kukova Špica (2427 m) and Škrnatarica (2448 m).

At the end of the ledge we used the fixed rope for abseiling into the gully leading to the main ridge.

In the gully we put crampons on again for a short while due to some hard snow patches.

Fascinating rock shapes at the exit from the gully to the ridge.

From here to the top it's no more than 5 minutes. Two traverses separate us from the summit. The first is easier to cross, but great caution is needed.

Second traverse. A bit harder than the first, but with good rock which is also rare.

And we are at the summit of Široka Peč (2497 m). It is truly magnificent to stand on top of such a mountain. We registered as number 554 and 555 :)

Two at the summit of Dovški Križ (2542 m).

And two at the summit of Škrnatarica (2448 m).

From the top we descend to the gully back along the same path. From there we climb over the first tower which seemed to us personally the most difficult part of the entire ridge traverse.

After the first tower we go for a short while along a very jagged ridge. It is really wonderful to walk here.

Slow, careful and confident steps are the motto of this tour.

Another of the numerous small towers on the ridge.

Climbing down towards the notch between the first and second tower.

Climbing in the chimney towards the top of the second tower.

Continuation of the ridge towards Dovški Križ

Abseil towards the notch between the second and third tower. It is also possible to climb down, but it is safer with a rope.

And ascent on the third tower. It is technically the easiest, but the most crumbly and requires full attention and concentration.

View towards the main summit of Široka Peč.

Here it is visible that the descent from Grlo is currently impossible due to huge avalanche danger.

After climbing the third tower, the ridge becomes a bit easier.

Here we put the crampons on again and crossed a small snow patch.

And from there you are in easy terrain right at the summit of Dovški Križ. You can also look where you have been wandering today and are really impressed.

From the other side, such a view opens towards the north face of Triglav and the Vrata valley.

We two at the summit of Dovški Križ (2542 m). From the summit of Široka Peč to here we needed 2 hours.

2/3 of Boso's family from the summit of Dovški Križ.

At the summit we each ate one sandwich and drank quite a bit of water. Half an hour later, we set off down towards bivouac II at Jezerih.

Caution on the descent is not superfluous.

In short, the ledge on the ascent from the notch.

Soft grasses are really a pleasure for the descent.

Krnica Na Jezerih. View towards Srednjem (2589 m) and Visokem (2646 m) Rokavu and Velikem Oltaru (2621 m). Rokavski ozebnik is still quite snowy which means comfortable ascent to Rokavsko škrbino.

Quickly we reach bivouac II at Jezerih. For me the nicest bivouac with the best view in the Slovenian Alps :)

I hope the interior of the bivouac remains so neat and clean.

Descent through endless screes towards Vrata valley.

At the cave below Mali Matterhorn a nice view opens to Stenar (2501 m).

At Rdeči potok we strengthened ourselves for the descent continuation.

Shorter slightly exposed part in the lower descent section. Caution is advisable due to wet grass.

Plaz Črlovec and Kukova Špica. Shortly after Plaz Črlovec a gentleman from Mojstrana stopped for us who drove us back to Gozd Martuljek. Big thanks to him, he is a real gentleman.

(+15)

ločanka2. 06. 2020 06:55:00

Wonderful, guys, one and the other! In the next life I will surely also go over here nasmeh

(+1)

Filip_Culjak2. 06. 2020 08:24:03

Thanks ločanka nasmeh

(+2)

lijaneja2. 06. 2020 10:03:22

Congratulations, Boštjan! Is your ascent route to the summit in the view of the second picture, or is it a bit behind, and with what difficulty grade do you rate the approach to the first tower of Široka peči?

(+1)

bos2. 06. 2020 11:08:17

Thanks, Tone. Not in view, as we approached from the Amphitheater, right to the top of the snow then crumbly traverse and up the gully, a bit to watch out, no need to belay.

lijaneja2. 06. 2020 11:18:40

Aha, a classic then. Obviously I misinterpreted the description under the second picture. zmeden

redbull25. 06. 2021 22:23:20

Široka Peč and Dovški Križ (25.06.21)

The Za Akom path continues this weekend too, just that in the streambed we turn a bit more to the left. Both gullies are nicely filled, but only the right one is correct. There is just enough rocky scree not to put on crampons. There is huge snow, consequently good waterfalls here. No trouble over slightly wet rocks to the bushy ledge. To the most important jump on the tour via good snow base. The cornice is not extra yet. The last few meters can be a bit annoying if you don't step well. A short rope comes in very handy. Past the little box we go to the amphitheater. It was heavenly and all that blue above us. It won't last long, as it thundered a bit towards Kukova. Up the ledge and to the notch, and to the summit without special features. We continued along the ridge towards Dovški Križ. I'd say that perhaps of the entire ridge the initial climbing on the first tower is the hardest. At the next tower we didn't go around, but up it, abseiled from it. From here to 2542m there are no more difficulties. We descend into Jugova grapa (crampons obligatory) and we're already at the larches. Today, for a change, it was quite temperature-wise acceptable, as it wasn't too hot.

a little more and we enter the amphitheater

the shout from the guy up there was heard

View back at the climbed ridge to Široka Peč

entry into Jugovo currently presents no difficulties

need to find the easiest passage over the rocks and the passage at the edge wall

(+8)

redbull8. 01. 2023 20:37:30

Široka Peč&D.Križ (07.01.23)

Solid snow base started roughly where the path heads up to Za Akom bivouac. We went into the streambed and along the left side on slightly sinking base to the real "channel". Exit to the left was nicely done, surprisingly well. No hard base, just annoying breakthrough steps followed us. Chimney is still the same, just getting right to it wasn't as easy as in summer. On the traverse to it there was ice you're not sure if it holds. With belay we cross it and do the same at III+. Continuation is already nice classic, just at the gully so much snow I wasn't sure if we were on the right one. In that snow it got properly overhanging, in summer wider more level ramp. But after it nicely done to the top with some dry sections. We return to beautiful amphitheater and bit higher turn right into gully bringing us to ridge. From here just a walk to Dovški Križ. Nice in these parts where usually no crowds. Can say it looked like no one been to DK this winter. No tracks on harder base (normal route). Jugova gully very nicely done, snow great for good skier. Past 3 larches back to valley. Tour quite tough, muscles will hurt few days.

just this one more, this short ascent to DK was really a walk compared to before

(+24)

lijaneja8. 01. 2023 20:50:38

Great, guys!

(+6)

Shkaro9. 01. 2023 09:07:21

Bravo guys, congratulations nasmeh

(+3)

kovakija9. 01. 2023 09:28:47

Bravo, nice ascent, in winter even easier of course if conditions are good, which they weren't for your ascent.
best regards

(+1)

dprapr9. 01. 2023 12:19:10

Again great tour, Dejan.

Easier in winter on such demanding peak? zmeden

Maybe lower in gully where it's not best when snow melts. Even there dry nothing special.

(+2)

sebo30611. 01. 2023 11:04:26

what exactly is happening in picture 8? Why isn't the belayer clipped in? Where are the slings anchored?
Just for info, so no one who maybe learns from such posts (which is wrong anyway) repeats it.

(+13)

redbull11. 01. 2023 15:18:44

The picture doesn't show everything, slings are so well fixed that it's a question if anyone would do better mežikanje

. Anyway, it wasn't bad, and neither that thing a few cm before the pic, which isn't on screen.

(+1)

sebo30611. 01. 2023 21:47:51

well then belayer could at least clip to anchor, which pic clearly shows and can't hide he wasn't. Unless you had two anchors, which would be pretty dumb. In case of leader fall situation here very dangerous.
But interests me what that "tied" dyneema sling was, looks buried in snow?

No hard feelings, do what you want, but such things I have to comment because people read and use such stuff further (unfortunately).

(+17)

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Široka peč and Dovški križ