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Slovenian Way of St. James

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jvali28. 01. 2023 23:33:30
July 2022: My vacation plans get turned upside down a bit, but I don't allow myself to end up on my head because of it. Actually my head quickly grinds and grinds an alternative: yellow arrows can be followed on home soil too. I offer the bait to a friend, who bites right away. Wisely we set the departure day, I study the logistics, spin some contacts and everything falls into place. We go into the embrace of Storžič, where the patched part of the Upper Carniola branch of the Way of St. James runs.
Hraše near Smlednik - Preddvor with St. James is the first part of our journey. We overnight at camino friend Francesca in Bela. Second day I write the story of Camino baby. Preddvor- Križe, where we seek Eva and together we tick off part of the path with her and doggy Luna, who is used to walking. Then with Mojca we hike all the way to Brezje, where the duo unites into a quartet again and toasts.
Beautiful is this world, exceptionally beautiful path, step on it if backpack is dear friend to you and eyes are accustomed to yellow signs.
Again we wave to the yellow arrows and markers of the St. James Path.1
Hraše. From here all the way to Brezje we will walk.2
Standing all alone is the church of St. James.3
It is surrounded by fields and meadows, and from it one immediately enters a peaceful, shaded forest.4
Interesting advertisements along the path. Local matters!5
Over the motorway via an interesting, architecturally accomplished and beautiful overpass.6
We find nice little messages.7
Beautiful cottages along the path, like in a fairy tale, the cat Copatarica could live in it.8
More interesting homes.9
As many as two Jameses in one place.10
Two little churches, St. Catherine and St. Radegund.11
Pleasant path, the soles are cheering.12
Along the green Kokra and along the avenue of beautiful trees.13
First view of the intermediate goal, St. James there on the hillock.14
Necessary break at Preddvor Castle. The count and countess are not there, but how to revive the castle is clearly visible.15
Surroundings of the castle.16
Surroundings of the castle.17
Yes, we have to go up.18
A quite steep path leads to St. James, a whole hour of walking, but very beautiful, and the summit has a great view.19
At the lower chapel, up from the lake. Slightly clearing up, so the droplets calm down.20
In the embrace of Storžič, Lake Črnava, extremely photogenic.21
The sleeping hotel, what a pity. But it has a nice reflection in the lake.22
White. And the little garden of our hostess.23
Franceska spoils us rotten. Grateful to heaven!24
Three fine ladies and Storžič for decoration.25
The shade chases us all the time.26
Bašelj. We will need to go to Bašeljski vrh sometime.27
28
Useful signs all the time.29
Several paths lead here.30
In the distance, Triglav shows off and excites us.31
We draw the path to our second hostess.32
At Hudo, a little earlier we lose the marks a bit and it really goes bad for us, we waste half an hour.33
When we find each other, we continue together.34
Goal. This time I arrive from the third direction. Always different.35
My Jakobina. Companion on the Jakob paths.36
Here we are, hooray!37
Always choose the right direction.38
(+2)like
bagi19. 08. 2024 14:48:19
Central Way of St. James - Lower Carniola direction

After thirteen years it was time for a repeat, this time in much warmer months than the first time. I'd forgotten most of the path anyway, so there was a lot new again zavijanje z očmi. Due to constant afternoon showers we barely found four dry days in a row, so for the start we did the Lower Carniola branch from Bregana to Ljubljana. The Primorska branch still waits for cooler days. This is how it went for us …

Day 1 - Bregana / Kostanjevica na Krki

Actually we started a bit before Bregana, at bakery and cafe Suban right by the highway. Morning sweets were a good send-off for the kilometers ahead and it was easier right away nasmeh. We picked up the starting stamp only after a few kilometers at Slovenska vas. It's on a tree and easy to miss. The continuation went for a while right by the border, then moved towards Krka. In between there are two refreshment spots, one at Klunove toplice – bar Biondy and the other in Bušeča vas – bar Jeruzalem, luckily both open velik nasmeh. But it wasn't like that everywhere. Accommodations also needed careful planning, as their selection is quite limited. So we finished the first day in Kostanjevica na Krki, overnighted at guesthouse Žolnir. Here you get good food and average lodging, they'll have to install mosquito nets on the windows sooner or later.
First coffee and croissants, then we really start :)1
Official start of Jakob's path2
First stamp, which you can easily miss3
In the morning the sun is still pleasant, later it quickly heats the air4
This will be most of the path. We will walk through villages that we would never visit by car5
They look at us a bit strangely, but the pasture soon tempts them :)6
The first of numerous old footbridges that we will see on the path7
These two I know :)8
It's getting hot and excess clothing quickly goes into the backpack9
Summer atmosphere. Sun, heat, crickets and the two of us on a solitary path10
We have to pass right by the beehives. Immediately a memory of an unpleasant experience from Spain comes to mind11
Following yellow markers of all sorts. Many have been freshly painted12
The paths are also of all sorts, from asphalt to gravel, field paths and forest trails13
What could this be?14
Curiosity killed the cat. We're already in one of the numerous greenhouses around here15
Mystery solved :)16
We continue our path …17
We walk past numerous vineyards …18
Here will be our second break. The bar is open, the nearest shop unfortunately only in the morning19
Judging by the name, there used to be ferrymen here, but for a long time now a bridge connects them20
It turns onto the right variant of the Jakob's path21
We walk past fields that are just before harvest22
Here we use GPS because the path is overgrown and poorly traceable23
Krka24
Surprisingly, there's no one anywhere …25
The old core of Kostanjevica na Krki. The flood levels are well visible on the facades26
Gostišče Žolnir, where we will spend the first night. Mosquitoes will provide the nightlife.27
GPS track of the first day. It added up to 33 km and 600 m of ascent.28
(+2)like
bagi20. 08. 2024 13:54:17
Day 2 - Kostanjevica na Krki / Vavta vas

We started walking right after early breakfast and chased the morning freshness. But it didn't last long. The sun quickly warmed the air and on the ascent to Gorjanci it was already properly hot for us. We're used to that, so no problem. Half a kilo of sunscreen and wide hat covers everything velik nasmeh. Above all we admired the world around us, as you can only see it on foot. Wonderful experience. Followed by descent to Pleterje abbey and continuation towards Novo mesto. There we made the only and thus a bit longer pause, then headed towards Vavta vas. We overnighted at guesthouse RaMar, which I can only warmly recommend. Rooms are really top-notch and at excellent price, host extremely accommodating. Nearby there's also pizzeria and bakery, so food is taken care of nasmeh.
After a good breakfast, with full bellies we reluctantly set off on the trail :)1
Direction Kostanjevica na Krki, then Gorjanci2
The morning is still fresh, only birds are chirping by the river3
I also spot two fishermen, but they don't chirp because of the fish :)4
We explored Kostanjevica the previous day, so we don't stop this time5
Oh dear, this happens too :)6
Again we are alone on the path7
Slovenian Jakobs paths certainly have visitors, but never crowds like on the Spanish Camino8
No doubt, we must go left :)9
We often notice how they secretly watch us, but few establish contact10
We also notice many renovated houses and new builds. Construction costs in the countryside are probably much lower than in cities11
An old-time ponk still in use12
This year there is a huge amount of fruit and branches are broken from the weight of the fruits in many places13
Along the path …14
Along the path …15
Like from that famous one … Gray path, lead me16
Kartuzija Pleterje in sight ...17
First we follow the long wall to the entrance gates18
Then he realizes the charterhouse is closed. A rest follows at the first suitable spot19
Soon we go on, towards new adventures20
Everything comes in handy for them :)21
Even meets a bear, luckily of the friendlier kind :)22
Many vineyards to the left, many vineyards to the right …23
In the middle of the fields a stake with the scallop. Unmissable, and there's nowhere to stray24
Beautiful Dolenjska hills25
It's harvest time. Some fields are already cleared, others will follow26
Beautiful landscape :)27
And not such a beautiful path …28
Another feature of these places. Every village has its church, but probably it's like that all over Slovenia29
Mown, cleared, nice to look at30
This must already be Novo Mesto31
After some time we will stop here32
At the end of Kandijski most they have excellent ice cream and a nice view33
We continue along the promenade by the Krka, then turn to the countryside34
We arrive in a more rural area with numerous farms35
Accordingly, *traktor šola* is something completely self-evident :)36
Evening is approaching. We still just have to cross Krka …37
View of the lazy river38
In Vavti vasi we stay at the RaMar inn, which even has a logbook for Jakobova pot. Commendable39
GPS track of the second day. We covered 43 km and 1200 m of ascent40
(+3)like
sla20. 08. 2024 20:17:14
Bravo!!!
(+1)like
bagi21. 08. 2024 11:57:42
Day 3 - Vavta vas / Stična

Definitely the hardest day. Not so much because of the many kilometers, but because of the sultry weather, lots of greenery on the path and no refreshment spot. Officially there are two, but that day sadly both closed. Luckily we had enough water, just the mood wasn't too olympic this time zavijanje z očmi.

For start we made a steep ascent from Vavta vas over Straža high above the valley across the slopes of Straška gora. The path is quite overgrown, mosquitoes tracked us quickly too. Higher up the shade of tall forest hid us from the sun and so it was all the way to Dom Frata. Sadly closed. Followed descent into Globodolska dolina and another steep ascent over Šmarva to Vrhtrebnje. From there on the path is so overgrown that we made a longer detour on the road. In Selu pri Šumberku the second refreshment spot - bistro Brigita was closed, so we gave up on them for that day. Despite the heat we pulled through in one go all the way to Ivančna Gorica, where finally a longer break followed. We missed the monastery accommodation, so we overnighted just before Stična at guesthouse Edenski vrt. Price normal, experience very special nasmeh.
Morning coffee and cheese strudel from the nearby bakery, excellent combination for trail food :)1
The Jakobova pot stamp is located at the church in Vavti vasi2
One last time we cross Krka, then Straža and a steep ascent over the slopes of Straški hrib follow3
In the lower section the forest path is overgrown, but there are plenty of signposts of all kinds4
Higher up it flattens and enters high forest5
Another one of the many markers of our path6
Already on the way to the Frata hut7
Unfortunately that day the doors were firmly shut and we only took time to air our feet8
This is also the St. James Path and in shady areas moreover quite wet from dew9
Soon we descend into the Globodolska Valley10
Three villages are on this plain and this is the first, Dolenji Globodol11
Old school whose days are certainly numbered12
Midweek and not much life is to be seen in any village13
Only cultivated areas and the clatter of tractors bear witness to human presence14
From here on it's no joke anymore. A long knee-killer follows :)15
Past numerous weekend houses it steeply climbs towards Šmavr16
The European walking path E7 also passes here17
He, he … a sign from some other era18
It was really steep, but the view is beautiful :)19
We continue towards Vrhtrebnje20
In between the path brings us to Trebnji vrh with a bench and beautiful shade. Here we catch our breath21
Vrhtrebnje. From here the St. James Path is so overgrown that we detour along the road22
Home made progress. Clio on solar drive, but it obviously ran out of electricity in the middle of the field :)23
The day is getting ever hotter, shade not even a sample …24
The second guesthouse is also closed, so we can only continue. The landscape is still beautiful :)25
Countless villages rush past us, kilometers diligently accumulate26
We're not exactly on the highway, but otherwise we're doing quite well :)27
Still a few incredibly long kilometers follow before we finally reach Ivančno Gorica. Break!28
There we buy everything needed for dinner and head towards Stična laden like mules29
Today we will park here30
Edenski vrh is a truly special place, years of work by enthusiasts31
We will sleep in an old barn converted into guest rooms32
GPS track of the third day. Also this time we covered 43 km and 1200 m elevation, but more strenuous :)33
(+3)like
bagi22. 08. 2024 11:51:32
Day 4 - Stična / Ljubljana Castle

We started still in the dark. The previous day had smoked us like čevapi and we wanted to avoid that as much as possible. Quickly we rose above Stična and along forest slopes through both Dobrava headed towards Višnja Gora. There a stop followed, then ascent towards Blečje vrh and Polica. These are our areas, hiked many times. Quickly we were at Magdalenska gora and over Orle at Ljubljana's Golovec. Here we were almost at the photo finish velik nasmeh. Followed descent towards Gruberjev kanal and ascent to Šance right near the castle. From Grajski grič we descended to old Ljubljana and at Jakob church stamped the last stamp. Only the return home followed, this time with the comfort of four wheels nasmeh.
On the last day we get up really early and arrive at Stična abbey still in the dark1
We should have slept here the previous day, but they accept guests only until 5 p.m.2
The early hour pays off for us, and in the morning freshness kilometers pass quickly3
Soon we sight Višnja Gora. There we will make a break4
We don't need the old center, everything we need is at the shop next to the post office5
Then past Dedni Dol we continue to Blečje vrh6
In between some overgrown path follows, so we choose it across mown meadows7
Blečji vrh. From here on we'll walk on asphalt for quite a while8
Polica with Jakob's church. Next to it is a shelter for pilgrims9
Descending towards Perovo. Luckily there's not much traffic, so the road isn't unwelcome10
Soon we're back on gravel, far from the noise and exhaust fumes11
Our home mountain :)12
The path doesn't end at Magdalenska of course, so we continue13
We know these areas well and exactly what awaits us around the bend14
Spanish fighters, oops … fighter :)15
Passing by, we're at Golovec, where the Jakobsweg markers are on dedicated poles16
The path over Golovec is always beautiful. We also meet many recreational walkers17
This sign is dedicated solely to the Jakobova pot18
Crossing over Gruberjev kanal19
We're already at the castle wall. Next comes a jump to the highest point of the castle hill, Šance20
View of Ljubljana … 21
The hot weather shows a little, but supplies are still sufficient :)22
View of the castle …23
… and on the roofs of old Ljubljana24
Rare moment without tourists :)25
Final part. The stamp box is at the entrance to Jakob's church on Levstikov trg26
From here we'll continue towards Primorska next time27
GPS track of the fourth day. It accumulated 40 km and 1000 m elevation gain.28
Entire track from Bregana to Ljubljanski grad.29
(+4)like
bagi7. 10. 2024 13:38:44
We had just nicely finished the Lower Carniola part of the Way of St. James, already the coastal one came up nasmeh. Of course we continued from the same point where we stopped then, that's in the old part of Ljubljana. Yellow markings first took us to PST, then on Vič directed towards Barje. Across it we walked for hours all the way to Vrhnika, where the path became a bit more varied. So it was all the way to Logatec, where we overnighted first time. The elevation profile of the first day is mostly flat, as in 40 km we did only 500 m ascent.

The next day suited us better, as it had many more ups and downs. Due to heavy rain a few days before at the junction just before Planina we chose the right variant, which is the only sensible one in case of flooding on Planinsko polje. This climbs to the hills above Planina and joins the lower variant in Strmec village. I've walked both and would choose the upper path again. It avoids not only floods but completely also the noisy road in the valley. Followed descent through several villages towards Predjama and further to Razdrto. Not many accommodations here, so we overnighted a good kilometer off the path at farm Hudičevec.

Next morning crossing under Nanos to Vipava valley. We came out in Podnanos village, where you can also refresh. Continued towards Podraga, then Avber and Tomaj and already at Italian border. As obligatory we visited pilgrim shrine Tabor, where we pressed the last stamp of the Way of St. James. There are really many on the Primorska branch, but further I didn't spot any more. Followed hurried steps towards Opčine, as short day surprised us. We arrived there in dark and luckily found accommodation right away. Friendly host even warmed the room for us, though we were glowing ourselves velik nasmeh.

Dawn of the last morning. For send-off we first fueled up well at guesthouse by main tram station, then headed to Trieste. From Opčine on the Way of St. James part is unpleasantly routed along main road. This part is well marked with yellow shells, need to watch for right turnoff. It turns to less traffic streets and so to the shore at Canale Grande. From there to church of St. James / San Giacomo almost two more km walking. The church is on a hillock and easy to mistake with nearer San Giusto, so careful those going first time.

From church we returned to shore and went to main bus station. It's almost at same location as railway. For return home we chose Flixbus, first time. Generally I don't have good opinion of these buses from experiences in daily traffic, but as passengers no complaints. Bus comfortable, seats assigned by ticket, departure on time. Flixbus has reserved platform 2 at Trieste station, before boarding driver checks QR code on tickets. These need to be bought online beforehand, process similar to plane reservation. Prices vary a lot by reservation day, line and bus occupancy. I managed to get two tickets for only 32€, much less than train and faster too. Arrival in Ljubljana on time and with that we fully finished this trip nasmeh.
Stara Ljubljana, where we finished the Dolenjska branch of Jakobova pot in summer1
The shell indicates the direction, just waiting for the starting green :)2
Along the Ljubljanica we continue all the way to Prulski most, where we cross to the other side3
Soon we are on the Path of Remembrance and Comradeship, where we mainly meet dog walkers and their pets4
At the famous Murgle the first sun greets us5
Then comes Cesarska cesta, after which we turn onto a morost6
This year there is a huge amount of fruit and without props the branches would break in many places7
Notranje Gorice. Here we cross the railway and keep to the right side8
Somewhere here should be the first stamp of Jakobova pot ….9
We return a few meters back and find it in the corner of the pizzeria Pr'Pavlet10
Soon we leave the last houses and are again in another world. We will walk along the old channel of the Ljubljanica11
In between an interesting acquaintance greets us … Pentlja. A few years ago we walked it in full12
I see the Učna pot Bevke for the first time. Numerous info panels contain a lot of interesting information13
Church of St. Jacob near Blatna Brezovica. Here is the second stamp14
Next to the church there is also a sign for Bobrova pot, also unknown. Obviously the local tourist societies are quite active :)15
Blatna Brezovica, a mixture of farms and ordinary residential houses. No mud from the name anywhere :)16
Autumn dawning. The wild vine is already changing color17
Quite low underpass under the motorway. Good we don't have travel backpacks :)18
The somewhat lower-lying road the Ljubljanica certainly floods several times 19
Vrhnika, ascent follows along Na klancu street20
The street name is indelibly associated with Ivan Cankar's book21
View of part of Vrhnika from Fijolčna gora22
Cankarjeva Sv. Trojica, mentioned in the book Aleš iz Razora23
We go our own way and climb past Starga malna towards Logatec24
When we enter the *Bear area*, it naturally requires a short break :)25
In Logatec he sleeps at gostišče Jeršin and sets off early in the morning26
There is frost and autumn mists are spreading everywhere27
The dew is also quite heavy and soon we are wet up to our arses28
Ruined tower at Kališče. For safety reasons they removed the entrance ladder29
Through abundant moisture we continue towards Planina. Good we have tried-and-tested shoes30
Important junction. In case of flooding on Planinsko polje the right path variant is necessary31
Due to constant precipitation we too turn preventively towards Grčarevec32
Here Jakobova pot joins the Planina-Grmada mountain path33
Accordingly the path is somewhat better trodden, above all it is quite steep several times34
Lipeljska jama right by the path. Entrance unprotected, depth approx. 30 m35
Interesting signpost on the left. This time the lower variant, another time the upper :)36
Church of Sv. Marija pod Grmado. Besides the stamp it also has some first aid :)37
A considerable descent follows and we emerge in the village Strmec38
We had already walked this road in spring when we did a loop via Sv. Lovrenc, Špilnik, Planinska gora and Grmada39
Studeno and church of Sv. Jakob40
No official stamp yet a good decade ago, but I got a duck stamp from the kindergarten by the church :)41
Still a long way ahead, so we continue right away. Longer break awaits later …42
In Bukovje both the shop and the bar are closed, so we only stop in Predjama. Fortunately, there are no longer many tourists.43
We continue, direction Razdrto. The path to Nanos branches off much earlier.44
A long day lies behind us, unusually warm for the autumn time.45
The day is departing, so we have no time for that kind of energy boost. We hurry towards the accommodation.46
We slept at the Hudičevec farm. Breakfast was excellent and full of energy we go into the new day.47
Nanos recognizable from afar. The path will lead us along its foothills.48
Wind turbines are also characteristic of this venduto. The right one works without pause, the left one whenever. There are no chopped-up birds anywhere.49
For the first time we spot the Trst sign, our final point. But for the motorway we are a little too slow :)50
Therefore we continue nicely along the footpath, direction Podnanos.51
This is a beautiful path. Well-trodden and shady, even and comfortable.52
For some time we cross the hillsides, then the path descends into the valley.53
First we pass through the small settlements Hrašče and Podbreg.54
Then we reach Podnanos, where the inn is even open. As a bonus, we coincidentally meet a good acquaintance :)55
After substantial sustenance and chatting we continue through Podraga, where the chapel of St. Jacob and the official stamp are located.56
Along the path and lifeless …57
Along the path and very much alive. He just doesn't feel like barking :)58
This area is quite vinicultural, hence vines everywhere.59
They have also set up proper trellises, but to leave a bunch for us, no :)60
This year there are huge amounts of chestnuts too. Some are already on the ground.61
Štjak. No one anywhere, everything deserted …62
Literally in some places63
Here is the church of St. James and another stamp. There are really many on the Primorska branch64
We leave the village and continue on typical rough macadam …65
Kavadurji, such an unknown word that I search the net at the first opportunity. They had hard work, chiselled in quarries with hand tools66
Quite a few kilometers since the last break, and we can hardly wait for the stop in Avber67
With full bellies the path is immediately nicer :). Next Tomaj and Kreplje, then direction Italy68
Undoubtedly, Italy is right in front of us69
Still to come is the ascent to Tabor. We have visited it many times and always liked it70
Official plaque. The present structure is from the 15th century, the original one a century earlier71
At the top we catch the last sun. Daylight is quite short, so we will have to hurry72
To Opčine we have a full five kilometers left and darkness catches us thoroughly towards the end73
Still looking for accommodation. Since Tabor we have been on high revs, consequences visible at the end :)74
Next morning. Lucky us, the nearby bar at the main tram station is open, rich selection75
This will probably soon be history, as there are more than enough bus connections76
Interesting that in Opčine the tram line with stations is fully renovated. Completely different in Trst, where the track rather decays77
Trst, final destination. To St. James church there is still a long way78
Of course it doesn't go other than through narrow streets. Cars parked everywhere, dense traffic79
Slowly pushing to the coast where for the first time I see such a huge almost 300 m long floating hotel (Cunard / Queen Victoria)80
Then we turn into Canale Grande for the obligatory cappuccino. Price = 1.8 € for comparison with our tourist spots81
Everywhere huge numbers of scooters of all sorts, even dedicated parking for them. Cars mostly scratched, plenty of dents too82
The final goal follows: Jakobova cerkev. The path to it is not exactly short and is quite distant from the city center.83
We are already here. With this we also conclude the Primorska branch and simultaneously the entire Osrednja Jakobova pot.84
GPS track. We walked 127 km and 3100 m of elevation gain.85
(+7)like
bagi16. 04. 2025 18:04:13
Prekmurje-Styrian direction

I did the Dolenjsko-Primorska and Višarska directions of the St. James Path right after they were routed and repeated them many times, but with Prekmurje-Styrian I kept putting it off and off zavijanje z očmi. Somehow it didn't get under my feet. A longer period of nice weather and a bit of moral debt to myself finally got me to visit this direction.

The Prekmurje-Styrian path starts at the Hungarian border, so it was initially called the Hungarian path. Since that doesn't sound too nice, they later renamed it to the current name. It ends in Stanežiče near Ljubljana, where it connects with the Višarska direction. From the border to the junction it's about 280 km long, with approx. 6500 m elevation gain. In Prekmurje it's flat, later quite hilly. Most of the path is on asphalt of some kind, only a smaller part has foot-friendly surface. Accommodations are sparingly spaced, so lots of planning needed for sleeping. That's why it's good to know how many km per day are still humane for each person nasmeh.

Due to logistics I first went to Hungary, overnighted there, then headed to Ljubljana all the way to the St. James church under the castle. This added some extra km, and more came from unexpected path complications. More in the stories by daily stages …
Walked path. Length 305 kilometers, approx. 6500 m elevation gain, 8 days of hiking1
(+4)like
bagi17. 04. 2025 12:42:01
Day 1

First I had to get to the starting point. The start of the St. James Path is at the Kobilje border crossing, but no useful connection there. Nearest accommodation is on the Hungarian side, so idea quickly went that way. From Ljubljana by direct train to Murska Sobota, then local bus to border village Genterovci. All together around 15 € at regular prices. Bus dropped me in the middle of nowhere and my walking to Hungary began.

No need to emphasize it's all flat around there nasmeh. Path led on tracks through endless fields, lucky it was relatively dry. If muddy, I'd be trudging through thick mud and boots would fill from top to bottom fast velik nasmeh. Anyway, landscape has its beauty, border villages poor sort, saw no people. Probably watched from afar, hiker with big backpack not common there. Then dinner and overnight in chosen inn, then into new day. More in photo-story …
First, I have to drive from home to Ljubljana1
There I board an international train with a direct connection to Murska Sobota without transfers2
Faithful companion on many journeys :) We already have thousands of kilometers behind us3
Railway station in Murska Sobota. I get off here.4
Local bus takes me to Genderovce.5
One of the rare locals :)6
I cross the border on a dusty gravel road.7
Border post.8
Tributary Nagy ásás. Tongue twister :)9
Plain with a capital letter.10
Path intersections are marked by crucifixes or rusted signs on posts.11
Ahead of me are 6 km of such terrain …12
Sometimes everything you can imagine is dumped there.13
After slaloming between puddles, I finally reach asphalt and the first village.14
I cheerfully gossip with two Hungarian women, but they just stare at me blankly :)15
First impressions. This house is still inhabited.16
Some houses on the left, some on the right, in between potholed asphalt.17
Here poverty is striking. Rarely do I see a tidy house.18
Along the path …19
Another snapshot ...20
Mullein doesn't usually flower, but this one managed :)21
My accommodation is in the place Nemesnép. A bit aside, one can stay elsewhere too.22
Local dish. Yum!23
Obviously I'm suspicious. The apparently untouched and locked room was quickly searched by someone during dinner. Technology gave him away :)24
On the first day I walked 14 km and whole 50 m of ascent :)25
(+6)like
bagi18. 04. 2025 09:48:24
Day 2

Left accommodation with eastern neighbors early morning and headed to Slovenian border. There the St. James Path officially starts and first sign waited already on the Slovenia sign. Signs plenty further too and quickly racked up km on Prekmurje plains. In between arranged overnight at end of day, but that proved harder goal.

I counted on crossing Mura by ferry, as the path is routed. But so-called Tinekov ferry operates only weekends and only in warmer months. Important info, as no notice about operating hours at ferry turnoff. Detour to Mura crossing over road bridge added 4 km one way, which later pushed km beyond good taste zavijanje z očmi. Good I'm used to such paths and asphalt.

Anyway, end was in beautiful setting of Jeruzalem hills nasmeh. First time there and walking in nice weather real pleasure. Inn where I arranged stay turned out excellent choice. Staff politeness, ambiance, super dinner and clean room with great view were healing plaster on all day's km velik nasmeh. More in photo-story …
I leave the guesthouse early. The previous evening they locked the doors, so I use the window not very elegantly for the exit :)1
Typical well of these areas. Every house has at least one.2
A very special bell tower. On the Slovenian side I haven't noticed a similar one.3
From Nemesnép I have another 4 km to the border. No traffic, the morning chill is just right.4
Border crossing Kobilje and the first marker of the St. James Path.5
This cart track brings me to the first sunlight.6
Kobilje and the church of St. Martin.7
The route continues through outlying hamlets.8
As well as through sparse woodland. Where possible, I walk along the edge of the road.9
I'm already in the second municipality. It is known for growing orchids.10
Here a completely new, still perfumed cyclist awaits me :)11
Easter roundabout. Nice :)12
Another specialty in these plains. Jesus on the cross always has company.13
Dedicated info board on the St. James Path and first stamp.14
Lendava River15
Sprinter for short distances :)16
Company again, style similar as in Spain17
No shade from trees yet, but at least I have a cyclist18
Exceptionally beautiful church of the Holy Trinity in Odranci19
Ethno village by the Črnec stream20
Once there were mills here21
Everything is nicely explained22
I just need to cross the Mura. But here it breaks down …23
They loudly warn me that Tinekov ferry doesn't work24
Nothing else is left to me but to continue on a much longer detour25
I cross the Mura far away over the road bridge at Razkrižje, almost 4 km off the path26
Bus station with a typical motif :)27
Here beautiful cottages are at home …28
And strange *artistic* installations. This one is neither the first nor the last …29
Near Podgradje I arrive at the fish farm area30
Beautiful places these are. Lakes follow one after another31
At the break …32
The last of the lakes. I have been walking along them for a good kilometer33
Pomurska mountain path, although there are not many mountains :)34
But that's why Jeruzalemske gorice, wonderful thing :)35
You can see far and everything is nicely maintained.36
Another one of those strange creations. Maybe that thing about half a per mille in the air really applies here :)37
The beautiful landscape continues …38
Along the path …39
Along the path …40
Fortunately, I am walking along the top of the scenic ridge.41
Along the path …42
Along the path …43
End of the day. Dinner and gathering of impressions from the path follow.44
Evening view from the balcony of my room.45
GPS track of the hiked path. It added up to 51 km and 450 m of elevation gain.46
(+6)like
bagi20. 04. 2025 12:10:33
Day 3

After an abundant breakfast, I barely got myself on the path velik nasmeh. But the landscape around me quickly chased the fog from legs and head. Again beautiful views, just the right morning coolness and discovering unknown places. I had no special problems on the path, but had to use the GPS track at some spots.

It happens that some sign is deliberately removed, overgrown or otherwise hidden. Usually if you don't see them for long, the path is almost surely elsewhere. Here they reliably follow the rule that the scallop shell as a sign always points the direction with its fan. Not everywhere in Spain.

The day was already a bit more hilly, Prekmurje plains behind me. The Styrian part of the path came, I overnighted in the center of this region … Ptuj. More in photo-story …
Morning from the balcony. I head for a tasty breakfast, then continue on.1
It really is beautiful. Upon conclusion of the entire path, this part was my favorite.2
View from Kogl, where there is also a stamp box with a stamp.3
Today is a somewhat more varied day, but not particularly hilly nonetheless.4
There are many such houses, built raw and already inhabited.5
The markers for the St. James Way are yellow. Most are arrows, shells can also be found.6
The magnolia is just preparing to bloom.7
This might be a Japanese quince, but I'm not sure.8
But I'm sure this one has helped put out many fires.9
Finally some macadam, short-lived though, but still.10
Ormož, Kerenčičev trg.11
Soon after it, the St. James Way turns right.12
Crosses Lešnica on attractive footbridges, then gets lost a bit in the grass and reappears on a gravel road.13
Soon after, the path turns into a grove with Roman tumuli. There is also an info board with explanations.14
There is not much forest, soon I am back in the open.15
In places the path even goes across meadows.16
Good view again. I will descend towards Vejka Nedli :)17
Excellent choice for a weekend. Has everything the big ones have, even a house number :)18
Next to it running water on manual drive :)19
Velika Nedelja Castle20
The mighty castle is said to have its foundations from as early as 1270.21
But I go on. At St. Anne's chapel I leave the elongated Vejko Nedlo.22
It's nice here too. Hilly and scenic...23
Easter is right at the door.24
Farmwife and her chickens. They don't need much food, nor are there eggs :)25
Exactly here I must. Markings are not plentiful, so GPS comes to help.26
Ahead it's better. Unfortunately locals remove markings in places.27
This is an interesting thing. A ruin hiding a technical jewel.28
Inside is a huge grape press. The sides of the transverse beam are over a meter wide.29
It was made in 1845. The client and maker are also inscribed on the beam.30
Unfortunately the press will go the way of that nearby house unless better times befall it first.31
Interesting, they breed pedigree pigeons on this homestead.32
One has obviously escaped and is showing off above the dovecote.33
A special tree called the great Judas tree. Blooms only during Easter.34
Again something comfortable for walking. Today I'm really being spoiled :)35
One of the lowland streamlets.36
Crayfish quartet presents itself.37
This time the cycle path is luckily not asphalted.38
Final destination, Ptuj.39
I park in the shelter of Proštije church of St. George.40
In some sort of refurbished church spaces I get nice accommodation :)41
That day GPS shows 38 km and 700 elevation meters.42
(+7)like
bagi21. 04. 2025 18:54:02
Day 4

Day marked by earlier start, long stage ahead again. Beautiful view of awakening Ptuj spoiled only by barely 1°C outside. Quickly put on extra layers like an onion and headed towards Ptuj Mountain. Arrived just early enough to avoid the crowd. Local firefighters already setting barriers for the approaching crowd, I quietly viewed this nice part of Slovenia nasmeh.

Then finally entered more known and partly walked area. That was at Studenice, above which rises Boč. Later remembered some already hiked path sections, much discovered completely new. On descent from Ljubična Mountain had to turn to Zbelovo and Loče, as only sensible accommodation there. They really aren't plentiful, so planning important for multi-day hike. More in photo-story …
I set out on the path early. Today a lot of kilometers and ascents await me1
Morning Ptuj. Everything is still asleep, no one anywhere2
I must go to the bridge. It is lit up like an amusement park3
It is intended only for pedestrians and cyclists, in emergency it is wide enough also for an emergency vehicle4
View back on the morning that is dawning5
Still a view of Ptuj Castle6
Brr, now that's cold reality :)7
Heading to Hajdina waving it off….8
This one takes the shortcut. How cold he must be :)9
St. Martin in Hajdina. Žiga is not here, so I go on.10
Hajdina Viaduct. I don't need to go up, I just go under it :)11
My next goal is Ptujska gora.12
On the way, I also visit Apače and Lovrenc.13
These are mostly rural villages. Some farms along the path are very old.14
Towards Gora, nothing but asphalt guides me :)15
But the view is beautiful. It was worth it.16
The weirdest satellite I've ever seen :)17
But in the background there is a sad, well-known story.18
Minority monastery on Ptujska Gora with the basilica of Mary the Patroness.19
The plaza in front of the church…20
And its interior.21
I go on…22
Even today the path lives, is open and offers beautiful views.23
All you do on such a path is walk, observe the world around you and meditate quietly.24
Makole. The shop is already closed, the bar failed long ago. No break today.25
On the right, Dravinja joins me. On its banks, the flood damage is still prominently visible.26
Finally something familiar :). Boč appears in the distance.27
There are also several old farms here.28
The curious goats have absolutely no idea what I'm doing here :)29
Kilometers fly by, time too…30
Zgornje Poljčane. Here I leave the plain and head into the hills.31
View back. The road climbs steeply and soon my knees hurt.32
Behind the last houses, asphalt gives way to a broad gravel road.33
The reason is the huge quarry below the hill Strmec. Access to it is prohibited.34
From the forest, I reach a familiar point.35
Church of St. Mary below Ljubična gora. We were here last year too.36
I continue along the Loško-Zbelovska path, which means a steep descent on the opposite side of the hill.37
The day is departing, so I turn towards Zbelovo and Mlače towards the accommodation.38
Obviously I'm not the only one walking :) A bit more and I end at the accommodation Kračun pri Ločah.39
It was a long day. 46 km and 900 m of elevation gain accumulated.40
(+6)like
bagi22. 04. 2025 17:16:24
Day 5

From valley accommodation first climbed back to St. James Path. It starts along Loško-Zbelovska path, marked by more or less ridge crossing between many solitary hamlets. Weather contributed, not sticking to forecast. To big surprise even snowed, but that with clouds and occasional bands of sun rays created special atmosphere nasmeh.

Later St. James Path joins Drameljska, then turns its own way to Vojnik. Village has sleeping options, but for me too early, continued to Šentjungert. There mountain hut supposed to have accommodations, but no. Probably could beg unheated room without bed, but low night temps deterred me quickly. Call home fixed all, morning family transport back to start point nasmeh. More in photo-story …
New morning, new day, this time more cloudy. From Loč I climb back onto Jakob's path.1
Nothing but asphalt is to be expected here, since these are settled areas.2
The weather is quite special. For a while light snow falls, then the sun shines …3
All of it together creates an incredible atmosphere.4
Sun rays move from hill to hill, but nowhere for long.5
View into the valley to the štajerko.6
In these areas there are handfuls of small hamlets, a few houses, nothing more.7
Every hillock has one …8
Today the path is demanding, but there are plenty of views as a reward.9
Jakob's path is well enough marked that I don't need technical help here.10
The weather still can't make up its mind what it should be like :)11
This is already familiar to me.12
Špitalič and the characteristic church with tower on the roof. Here I turn left.13
Žička Charterhouse. Since I arrived before 10 a.m., everything is still closed.14
Again I climb vigorously up to the weekend cottage with a beautiful view.15
Here the slopes are somewhat more densely populated.16
The next goal is Sv. Tomaž.17
But a long path still leads there.18
Hmm, best to stick to the red markers. There's only one :)19
Hut on Tomaž. Here I take my first break. The caretakers are great, you can also sleep here.20
Views from Sv. Tomaž.21
Next, I have to descend to Vojnik.22
I won't go directly through the center, the path leads more along the right edge.23
Because of the closed street, I have sweet peace :)24
I still have to cross the Dravinja, then in the direction of Šenjugert.25
View back on all the churches.26
The continuation is quite long and I walk past smaller hamlets again.27
Rigelj, one of the few peaks that the Jakobova pot crosses directly.28
Today the path has a completely different character from the previous days.29
Deliberately placed and tied obstacle for uncouth MTB riders.30
Another peak named Gora and the church of Sv. Konigunde.31
Here I take a break and simultaneously learn that, despite other data, one cannot sleep here.32
Nothing remains for me but to continue. Meanwhile, I call the home accommodation :)33
I descend to the valley following the markers.34
Sv. Jakob in Galicija. Žiga is not here.35
The day is departing, while I wait for transport.36
Today the GPS measured 39 km and 1600 m of elevation gain.37
(+4)like
mirank22. 04. 2025 19:59:33
Sl 14, nice to see new roof on church, when we were there last time it wasn't there yet...
like
bagi23. 04. 2025 11:34:53
Day 6

Morning return to start and traffic peak dictated fewer km for day. Path difficulty not particularly high either, so no worry. Best overnight spot end of day Vransko, from few providers called camp Podgrad. Hard to choose better nasmeh. Clean, tidy, friendly owner and practically all spaces to myself.

Path itself led through many villages and hop-growing areas. Not much elevation, but on one surprised by Žolnek castle. Definitely worth visit, just don't joke with ticket collector velik nasmeh. More in photo-story …
The point where I finished the previous day. After the morning ride from home, I continue from here on.1
Quarry near Velika Pirešnica2
Not the most beautiful, but it serves its purpose well3
The initial part of today's path is quite nice, with a good surface for walking4
Here some problems with markings arise, so GPS comes to the rescue again5
Hunting educational trail6
The hamlets in these areas are larger than the previous day, they are already whole villages7
The fields are cultivated and just waiting for rain8
Due to numerous villages I tread asphalt again, but often one can walk along the edge9
Follows Polzela, where I can finally stop at a refreshment place and air out my shoes10
Due to the risk of frost, numerous flowering trees are wrapped in covers11
Savinja12
A pleasant walking path runs along the stream bed13
Hmm, at least go around the corner :)14
Hard to believe. They sell *Slovenian container house*15
Unmistakable, I'm walking through the land of hops16
Braslovče17
Nicely maintained remnant of the past18
Here the washing machine brand wasn't important :)19
I continue. I saw a huge number of such large, unfortunately abandoned farms along the entire path20
I haven't been here yet21
Soon the ruins of the once mighty castle appear22
Nicely arranged entrance point23
Info panel and data that the castle dates back to the distant year 113924
Toll collector :)25
These ruins surprise me. They are mighty and the work of diligent restorers' hands is noticeable at every step26
Although I didn't intend to, I take a look at everything27
Palace, residential part with a beautiful view of Žovenško jezero28
After about half an hour of viewing I continue29
My goal is Vransko, the path leads me through beautiful places30
Here the hop fields are already cultivated, strings stretched31
Vransko. In the shop I buy everything for dinner and breakfast, as I will sleep in a very special accommodation tonight32
Camp Podgrad, incredibly well-kept and clean. First class33
This one is mine. A real little house :)34
Also the interior. I wasn't cold, as everything is wooden, and there is IR heating on the ceiling35
This time GPS shows 37 km and 600 elevation meters36
(+6)like
seinfeld23. 04. 2025 11:51:11
Bravo, admirable, pity only about the transport home.
Obstacle on picture 30 from 22 April probably not against cyclists, but against crossers and quads that have spread in our forests lately.
(+4)like
miri23. 04. 2025 11:54:04
Emil, hats off.
(+4)like
saram23. 04. 2025 19:10:32
Bravo, nicely written and documented. I miss Mateja on your paths. I won't ask if you miss her too. I wish her a speedy recovery so she can join you on your paths again.
(+4)like
bagi24. 04. 2025 06:09:53
Thanks everyone nasmeh. Mateja has been intensively working since the operation to join me. Almost half a year of rehab behind her and in effort I don't reach her knees velik nasmeh.
(+4)like
mosovnik24. 04. 2025 11:02:14
With all the respect I can muster, I congratulate you on your described feat (and of course all previous ones). To your partner I wish a speedy recovery so you can collect kilometers together on your paths again.
(+1)like
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