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Traverse of the Mojstrovke to Travnik

ajda15. 08. 2013 22:36:18

Yes Flora1 that's Zadnja Mojstrovka mežikanje

nice tour these Mojstrovke right nasmeh

Good luck.

Flora115. 08. 2013 22:38:19

@ajda. You won't believe it, Ajda. I already had your name written to confirm. Well, then I wrote generally.
Hey, what is that summit right after that notch?

ajda15. 08. 2013 22:45:49

That I wouldn't know, maybe someone else will chime in who knows.
Yes, yes you were up there, that's it nasmeh

Regards.

(+2)

lozarbogdan23. 09. 2013 22:37:36

>Yesterday great day. In the morning from Vršič, over Šitna glava to Mala Mojstrovka. From there we continue to Velika and then the entire ridge to Travnik. In this part there are quite a few cairns. At Zadnja Mojstrovka Marko joins us and together we explore the ragged ridge. From Travnik we go further along the ridge, where there are some rock steps to climb and fewer and fewer cairns, so orientation is quite demanding. Best to stick to the ridge crest. We reach the summit of Šit and then down scree to Mali Kot, where the marked path to Jalovec starts. We descend to Izvir Soče and by bus to Vršič! Nice tour! velik nasmeh

Enter here

(+9)

urbancek10. 09. 2014 18:15:09

Yesterday early start from Vršič, first towards Mala Mojstrovka with the aim of night photography at the summit. The moon was incredibly strong, so you could walk without headlamp, really super nasmeh

. A bit after five in the morning I was already at MM summit. For a while I photographed the night sky and the landscape strongly lit by the moon, then soon after sunrise I continued towards Velika Mojstrovka, where I caught the first warm rays. Since I was early, despite heavy backpack (due to all extra photo gear), I decide to continue along the ridge to Zadnja Mojstrovka, on to Travnik, where I met my climbing partner Janez, with whom we decided to continue to Šit. Before Šit summit I nicely spotted much easier passage on the other side of the ridge before a difficult spot and soon stood on Šit summit. Janez was looking for passages elsewhere, but later decided to wait for me below. From the summit I descended first back along the ridge in the approach direction, then diagonally over some smaller scree, where I meet Janez again. Then we continued straight down under the south side of Šit towards dense bushes, through which we pushed for a while to reach the marked path towards Vršič. Interesting experience velik nasmeh

.

Now I'm interested in the proper descent from Šit to join the marked path from Jalovska škrbina. Can you descend from the summit somewhere over the wall towards Goličica, or do you have to return along the ridge as we did and is there then some passage to the basin below Jalovska škrbina and on to the marked path? Apparently there are some yellow "marks" somewhere that we didn't see.

Thanks for any help zadrega

. Regards!

P.S: It was a great loop tour and nicely used day. Recommended! nasmeh

...even on Jalovec a little man was lonely.

This one has persistently been waiting for me this year :)

...and on the path traversed from the summit of Travnik.

Key spot, clearly visible bypass on the S side.

Jalovec with Šit (the sunshade shifted on my camera).

Curiosity along the path through the forest back towards Vršič.

(+13)

milepetro10. 09. 2014 19:14:16

urbancek, is it possible via this path to reach or get near the bivouac below Špičko and then return to Vršič via marked path?

ljubitelj gora10. 09. 2014 19:14:22

Very nice photos.

(+5)

urbancek10. 09. 2014 19:25:11

@terminator: Of course you can return via the marked path to Vršič, as we did yesterday too (we only went a bit our own way up to there, through really unpleasant scree, since we thought we'd "hit" that upper unmarked path that's dashed on maps and goes above the marked one for a while and then joins it). If someone could illustrate this more precisely and back it up with a photo or sketch I'd be very glad for any info nasmeh

.

If you read above, I'm asking something similar zavijanje z očmi

.

@lg: Thanks, that was my plan too, especially when you take all the photo gear with you... Best!

(+2)

Jovan Cukut10. 09. 2014 20:09:00

Urbanček, check the traverse on the link below where you'll see the last part of the descent to the marked path. From Šit summit towards Jalovška škrbina it's only possible with abseils on a very crumbly ridge, which an experienced alpinist advised me against (the abseils).

https://picasaweb.google.com/105637201273061549504/GrebenskoPrecenjeMalaMojstrovkaSite#

(+7)

milepetro11. 09. 2014 07:30:59

urbancek, thanks for reply, Jovan...nice pics that well show the path and needed gear for descent. Best.

urbancek11. 09. 2014 10:08:18

Didn't find a better photo, but attaching one anyway zadrega

. So, if I understand right, you need to go roughly as the red line shows. Well, we went where the blue line is zavijanje z očmi

. Thanks for all explanations.

ljubitelj gora11. 09. 2014 15:08:58

You reach the marked path, but direct routes are always a bit spicy.

(+3)

janez.novak11. 09. 2014 15:56:45

I have some layman's questions about anchors: what are they made of (rope sling, piton+quicklink,...), who makes them and how long rope do you need for paths like the ones described here?

jedriličar11. 09. 2014 16:48:55

Some examples of wall anchors ... whoever gets there makes them, or whoever needs them if there aren't any ....
If you go on such paths, you always need to have some material with you (pitons, ropes) that you can leave in the wall if you have to make an anchor ... mežikanje

Rope: yeah usually I take 30m with me, unless the route description says otherwise. If different, then I carry 60m ...

Old school: Drago always belays with half-clove hitch... belay above the jump to reach the Amphitheater

I with a reverso... belay on the ledge below ŠP summit

Belay around the rock... for abseil from the tower on Zeleniške špice

(+3)

Busterman11. 09. 2014 18:46:30

If you're super lucky there's a drilled bolt with ring etc. (very safe, but very rare)
Usually it's some prusik cord type, piece of old rope etc. looped around tree, over rock horn, spike etc. If nothing of that available, usually on 2 pitons. Usually try to leave as little material as possible (while safe of course)

Makes them the one who first needs them somewhere, other users hope to find his construction. Whoever doesn't find, hammers a new one or renews existing if it looks suspicious. In any case abseiling is a fiddly thing with always potential for something to go wrong, so if not necessary...

Rope you need 1x longer than the descent length.

(+1)

VesnaM16. 09. 2014 11:36:37

yesterday I took advantage of the nice day and went up Hanzova to MM and continued to Špik. The only problem was the descent, where I deliberately turned into the scree even though I knew I shouldn't velik nasmeh

. Well in the end I made it to the marked path to Jalovec with some trouble cool

(+8)

Matic2516. 09. 2014 12:35:00

VesnaM is there any snow on this path? Given all this snowing on the two-thousanders. Mainly interested in just Hanzova path to MM. And nice pics nasmeh

VesnaM16. 09. 2014 12:39:53

one could make a snowman from it nasmeh

Matic2516. 09. 2014 12:55:44

Thanks for the reply VesnaM and LP!

ljubitelj gora2. 11. 2014 20:35:25

On this day from Vršič towards Jalovec, then to Šite and along the entire ridge to Mala Mojstrovka. I started midday intending to catch the sunset on Mojstrovka, there along the airy ledge I went with crampons, the ridge is long and offers nice views.