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Triglav - Slovenian Route

John25. 10. 2018 11:47:33

@Sonny4, tnx for opinion. Seems very convincing to me, like predecessors' opinions.
Idea of "unprotected" ascent passed me or I'll go with guide, since no joke here obviously. Probably succeeds for many without protection and experience, too much if not even for one.
But, if I'd decide to go without guide (that passed me nasmeh

), I'd prepare well "theoretically", at least orientationally. Whole week reading literature or descriptions and studying route sketch, surfing net etc. Anyway this Wall really gripped me. nasmeh

(+2)

Shkaro17. 09. 2019 14:49:16

This Sunday (15th September 2019) we climbed the Slovenian route via Frelih ledge. We were at Aljaž hut around 5am and it was lightly raining, but forecast excellent, so weather couldn't bother us. Rocks and pegs over Praga very wet and slippery, so lots of caution before entering route. When we entered, we roped up because rock still wet and we passed it quickly. Still in low cloud, but blue sky and sun from above. We reached Beli Plati and enjoyed climbing – rock no longer so wet. Original plan was Prevčev exit, but we went too far and decided for Frelih ledge anyway. Frelih ledge nicely exposed and great for climbing, good holds, even 5-6 pegs. After slab worse part, climb ledges very exposed with little protection, long drop to Vrata below. On route around 11:20 and decided to Triglav summit via Kugy ledge. To Triglav summit relatively quick through Triglav notch. Summit crowded and ridge highway  But we chose path over ridge to Kredarica and over Prag down to Vrata. Descent quite hot and we could hardly wait for cold Laško at Aljaž terrace  Wonderful day for repeat – few times 
Accumulated 23 km hiking/climbing with 2010m elevation in 12:30h duration.

P.S. Sorry for my Slovenian 

Climbing to grade II in the chimney right of Bele plati

We arrive at the wider part of Kozorogove police

We continue towards Kugy's ledge and it's not clear why we didn't go to Kredarica for beer instead :D

Group photo at the summit - happy and thirsty :D

View towards Luknja from the path over Prag

(+21)

Fikret17. 09. 2019 15:31:55

Shkaro, "P.S. Sorry for my Slovenian" - No problem, communication is what matters.
Picture 28. Scene that's becoming rarer in today's time and society. Joy, wide smile and toasting with friend or friends. Bravo - good luck!

(+5)

Yulius Kugy17. 09. 2019 15:41:17

very good - magnificent
good luck further guys

(+6)

Shkaro17. 09. 2019 20:03:28

Yes, toasting with friends after such a tour is the nicest thing... need to repeat nasmeh

Thanks!

(+6)

suhikekec26. 06. 2022 18:47:07

Slovenian Frelih exit, continuation over Kugy ledge and then to NW ridge to summit.
Slovenian gully still fully covered by snowfields from Zlatorog ledges, crampons and ice axe, before Frelih ledge another snowfield same direction... rest OK nasmeh

View into the valley from above the window

(+18)

Janez Seliškar26. 06. 2022 19:14:05

For information and action: BučErjeva wall! Ivan Bučer, 1910 - 1950.

(+6)

suhikekec28. 06. 2022 13:18:54

Yes Bučarjeva wall, what is the name of the continuation right after the summit book box... To me personally quite a demanding detail, in it there are quite a few hammered pegs for belaying... nasmeh

(+1)

JusAvgustin28. 06. 2022 18:47:58

Bučerjeva wall...

(+6)

Janez Seliškar29. 06. 2022 07:16:44

Hey, "suhikekec", at least read what someone writes to you with good intentions, don't make the same mistake again !! velik nasmeh

(+5)

bongo29. 06. 2022 11:24:19

Svetinin's memory of Bučer's accident: http://www.planinskivestnik.com/files/File/PV_1951_02.pdf

(+5)

zokipoki29. 06. 2022 11:45:00

Congratulations on the ascent guys! nasmeh

Good luck!

(+2)

suhikekec30. 06. 2022 16:52:19

Well thanks Janez Seliškar, Jus Avguštin and bongo... BučErjeva wall.... correction on the pictures will follow...

(+2)

Janez Seliškar21. 08. 2023 13:42:58

Slovenian route is so massively visited that apparently it's no longer worth posting anything about the route. Most have no trouble, but there are also those who have problems with the route course, since there are quite a few paths. Especially in the direction past the larches many can't get it into their head that there the ascent needs to be continued with a descent. The famous boulder in Slovenian gully requires some acrobatics, the right variant over the wall is much more demanding. At the end of the ledge under the window, many also don't know how to go further towards Frelih ledge. It was one great day in our Wall and the route also let us through its loops to the edge.

(+13)

431. 07. 2024 09:50:07

Yesterday I climbed Slovenian, conditions are great, the gully is nicely filled from Zlatorog ledge to the window, with ice axe and crampons you're quickly through. Snow is still in the basin left of Frelih traverse and on the exit scree and of course on the Podi.
A few comments: when you come from White slabs and the path leads you into the gully you have to climb the jump right after the first left corner in the gully up the vertical slab with crack, there is only one peg (and that one probably new). We went a bit too far, where there are visible pegs and some prusik, but it's quite harder and more awkward. Once you're through you see it's correctly drawn on the sketch in Sl. walls.
Past the window we went on slabs on the left, where there are quite a few pegs. Then you have to continue to the right and not too high, where is the best passage into the basin under the black wall. Thanks to the other rope for these two tips. mežikanje

But I think we missed the exit a bit - from the balcony above Frelih through the window in the notch we exited onto the ledge that went right down, but it ended in a smooth hole. Before it we continued up and left, then again right and up, to reach a wider ledge, which widened after the first edge and then after the second edge led to the exit scree. All this is very exposed and at least II, maybe one or two places even III, but all nicely bolted. But due to the difficulty I doubt a bit it's the right route, although it looks like many climb it. All descriptions are quite sparse regarding the exit...

(+5)

alyas21. 07. 2025 18:15:58

Slovenian in Triglav north face, Frelih, right exit under Slov. tower velik nasmeh

in Triglav north face there are over 100 climbing routes, one of them or even the most known and easy is Slovenian route, alpine classic graded on average III/II difficulty. Some parts are of course much easier and as T.Mihelič says – half of Slovenian you can »walk through without climbing«, but some chimneys in the gully can also be harder, of course depending on conditions (wet rock) and in general if you lose optimal orientation a bit, since no route in the Wall is so branched and has so many possible variants as exactly Slovenian.
This year the ascent, relatively already quite early, surprisingly dry, only the snow patch in the central part of Slovenian gully, which provides a bit of cool, can be bypassed without problems. In Slovenian route there are quite a few hammered pegs, at all key hard spots, newly – which we haven't noticed until now, also some drilled bolts with hangers, as if here too one can notice mass climbing guided tourism? zmeden

view of Triglav and part of the mighty TSS below it from the plain at Aljaž

among approx. 100 climbed routes in TSS, one is also the Slovenian one, drawing by T. Mihelič

at the beginning below, before entering the route

over the first substantial and awkward chimney

follows an easier continuation where several variants open up, the easiest towards the green scree head

Mihelič calls this place the real antechamber, where it is possible to choose several variants

at the foot of the gully towards Beli Plati

and in the second part, we reach the ridge below the mighty White Slabs

and in the upper part of the White Slabs, climbing is easiest rightwards upwards

at the top of the White Slabs we reach a friendly green clearing leading to a prominent deep gully

The first part below Bučerjevo steno is quite demanding

across Bučerjevo steno, where the accident happened during descent in 1950

over malo Škrbinica above Bučerjevo steno, where the terrain flattens out again

before us opens a view of the prominent Slovenian gully, we reach its base via a comfortable pathlet, and Zlatorog paths lead there from both left and right

along one of the widest, we walk right to the belvedere, although it is a bit off route

at Pomol, from where there is really a nice viewpoint

wonderful world of ledges and Zlatorog paths, photographed from the belvedere

initial part of the Slovenian gully, which is quite loaded, but not difficult

view of the central and upper part of the Slovenian gully, photographed zoomed from below

the only snow patch in the second half of the gully, which can be bypassed without difficulty

over the last harder section in the second half of the gully, where the terrain becomes quite steep

over a narrow blockage and usually always wet rock

last part before the widening of the gully and below the Window

at the Window, which represents the next landmark

over the narrow and exposed ridgelet above the window

and view of the climbing above the Window from above

view of the continuation above the Window, the original Slovenska smer goes via the cracks on the left side of the Slovenski stolp, but we will choose Frelih's exit to the right

over the quite steep and exposed Frelih traverse

Frelih traverse leads to a small gully below Slov.turnec, where we continue right along a shorter and relatively easier traverse all the way to the wider ledge

on the comfortable ledge at the rock edge below Slov.turnec

the passage over the ledge is the last harder part of Frelih's exit to the right

we continue around the Turnec on an easier but more scree-covered traverse some 150m further to the head of the next gully below the edge

from here follows another about 100m of ascent over a wider and more broken gully, until we exit onto the top of the Wall

when we are face to face with Turnec, it would be a shame not to climb it yet, but it's not exactly easy

the Slovenian route somehow ends at the Slovenski stolp or Turncu

We continue the ascent above Steno to the tri Glave, which overlook the Triglavskih podih above Steno

three old boys on today's tour and on the highest Glava (who together count exactly 202 years)

view of Slov. stolp or Turnc 2267m from the highest Glava 2426m

view of the Triglav ridge and remains of the former glacier from Vzhodna Glava

this young fellow hopped back below Triglav, we over Prag back to Vrata valley

(+18)

ppegan22. 07. 2025 08:40:02

Bravo guys nasmeh

Through your pictures I relived my ascent over the Wall, I went almost identically as you, so you brought back really nice memories for me. Oh, how happy I was when I climbed the route, what indescribable feelings overwhelmed me then nasmeh

This was also my most demanding trip so far, and I'll probably not top it with a harder one zavijanje z očmi

And this little angel is still there?

(+8)

gams122. 07. 2025 08:51:35

Really nicely described and documented, congrats and many more such trips ahead nasmeh

(+3)

dprapr22. 07. 2025 12:28:49

“There are quite a few pegs hammered into the Slovenian route, at all key difficult spots, newly – which we haven't noticed before, and also some drilled bolts with hangers, as if mass climbing guided tourism is already noticeable here too?”

Wasn't this a guided tour? nasmeh

(+5)

matjaž1m13. 09. 2025 16:52:51

4.9.25 with (@kitta)-Dejan and Gašper through the route then over the ridge to the summit descent behind Cmir. Above the White Slabs Vojko joins us, together we continue to the summit and down. We overtake one rope team on the way up. From summit to Kredarica it's a procession😁