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| lijaneja1. 07. 2025 12:58:44 |
Definitely different times now. In the early sixties we kids were still snowballing on the way from school just before May 1st. And that at an altitude of 730 m.
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| dprapr1. 07. 2025 13:38:46 |
In summer the best access variant is from Oltar, descent to Kotel.
Tone, there are still the coldest days there. 
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| lijaneja1. 07. 2025 14:25:21 |
You are right, Drago, but my clock is already well past twelve for over there.
Yes, in recent years (winters) Babno Polje was a bit colder than my place.
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| turbo1. 07. 2025 15:44:56 |
If from Oltar, then to it definitely from Velika Dnina. You won't slog up from number two on such a grand tour, I suppose . . .
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| lijaneja1. 07. 2025 16:35:14 |
Bojan, that's what he meant over Brinova glava, where there's half as much scree. For me the only variant remains past four, which is a bit longer and over Škrlatica's shoulder to Kotel and from it to the saddle between the Rokavs.
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| rokeg1. 07. 2025 17:02:54 |
If I arrive at 13.00 in Poldov Rovt, is it possible then still on the same day before dark over Oltar to Rokav and to bivak 2? What is the difficulty from Oltar to High Rokav, of course not strictly along the ridge? From the pictures I noticed a straddling part, can it be avoided? Is the glacier passable when bare? Is it possible without rappelling over Oltar or normal route?
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| Janez Seliškar1. 07. 2025 18:04:51 |
By 11 o'clock you can do plenty.
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| Macesna4. 07. 2025 22:37:29 |
@Trobec et al., for ascent to BII no need over scree slopes, left (but quite left) goes a little path.
Good luck.
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| redbull5. 07. 2025 03:04:04 |
For first time from Oltar to VRokav at such hour not recommended. Been three times and always somehow missed the easiest part before last ascent to VR and was on slightly harder. Eventually you get used to it and it's normal
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| Maemi5. 07. 2025 16:04:29 |
Traversed/climbed 1 time...for such adventures recommend morning departure. Especially if first time, orientationally a bit "confused" towards VR and last part is most demanding.
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| lijaneja5. 07. 2025 16:17:28 |
Best to start from trailhead at 20h. You'll save on cream and drinks.
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| turbo5. 07. 2025 16:55:04 |
Unbelievable, how much blabbering, as if High Rokav was something I don't know what. Easier alpinistic ascent (for some very demanding pathless terrain with some scrambling), a few meters of III, equipped with pegs on which you can belay and do a rope descent. Plus snow/rock combo, also ice, depending when you tackle the tour. Thirty years ago you could ski nicely down the couloir in the first half of June, a few years later snow in the couloir was already black, hard, icy in similar time of year, and was a tough nut with ice axe and crampons. Almost all those I know who said something about this ascent approached the Middle from the High too, it's right there and worth the extra effort. These are those kind of tours where you don't ask much, since it's self-understood that you're up to them and have proper experience if you plan to tackle them.
With a buddy and his dad we approached the 2 quite late one day, barely carried enough water for dinner and drinks to there, then the buddy and I light & fast went up to Oltar. Evening cooking and enjoying dolce far niente, next morning the sun caught us already high in the couloirs. From the High to the Middle, careful descent, then those incredible screes where it goes by itself, watch to exit on time, a bit this way and that and you're in extremely good spirits in Poldov rovt
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| Maemi5. 07. 2025 17:21:05 |
We gave opinion in one line, one older mountain fart wrote a whole essay in heavy blabbering.
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| rokeg5. 07. 2025 17:52:24 |
Thanks to all who gave useful answers. I know early start is better, but currently it doesn't work for me. Difficulty ratings are very subjective, at least to me, because say III somewhere seems easier than II elsewhere. Fact is, I don't know yet how to abseil alpine style. On the other hand, I'd like to conquer as many peaks as possible, if not all in Slovenia. Well, and I often see mixed descriptions. Somewhere the ridge is considered nothing harder, somewhere quite a few abseils. I'm concerned about descent to notch, plateau and riding part. Nowhere specifically written if you can avoid something. Nor if the steep couloir is passable, or some smooth rock barrier forms. Over Kotle is currently simply too long, already Lower Rokav was a project, especially because I was on foot in Vrata only at 13:00.
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| Maemi5. 07. 2025 18:09:51 |
Martuljek mountains are the most crumbly (puzzle).
Descent to notch/couloir is abseil and lots of gravel
If really interested, recommend in team, also given your stated lack of alpine basics.
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| turbo5. 07. 2025 18:23:33 |
rokeg,
regarding the ridge Oltar-High Rokav and further High Rokav-Škrlatica, the elder of Mojstrana GRS told/advised me (thirty plus years ago), that it's a kind of prerequisite to even think about something similar, secure mastery of III, both ascent and descent, of course without rope or belay. Rope for belay on harder spots and for descent over them. Otherwise the tour would drag timewise a lot and probably not without bivouac.
This you probably know, it's a very solid description:
https://www2.arnes.si/~mcuder/dnevnik/040731.html
If you somehow manage to bivouac in 2 the evening before and start the tour early next morning, you shouldn't have time issues.
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| rokeg5. 07. 2025 18:41:28 |
Thanks to both for the reply. About partner and such I already wrote that I can't find company even for easy routes.
I know Martuljek is very crumbly, most crumbly allegedly in Rzenik 
turbo, of course I know all their projects and descriptions, I always read their reports when going something harder. Sleeping in bivouac isn't a bad idea, but I feel on the second day nothing works anymore  Therefore, I'd like to complete it somehow on the first day.
Anyway, I need to conquer something easier first
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| turbo5. 07. 2025 18:59:26 |
rok,
since you're tied to the bus, consider the traverse of (Great) Oltar. Now the bus runs from Kranjska Gora over Vršič, get off at the third hairpin or bridge under Erika, somewhere there, and hike to Krnica. Then to Oltar by this description:
https://www.hribi.net/izlet/ruski_kriz_veliki_oltar_po_sz_grebenu/1/7/4631
Descend past 2 to Vrata, there bus again to Mojstrana and from there home.
From Dnine to the notch of the collapse to cry about, we two went without belay, further solid white rock, fun scrambling. Descent to Vrata (one car we had at third hairpin, one we left earlier under Poldov rov, then free and no worries)
Think about it, now in summer season bus transfers on both sides are to your advantage and relatively long day.
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| Trobec5. 07. 2025 19:46:25 |
@Macesna, I know, mostly one can avoid the scree, but one shorter part - just the most annoying, I think there's no other way.
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