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| JusAvgustin8. 10. 2009 19:27:44 |
congrats to you too.  , new alpinists/alpinistines 
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| JusAvgustin28. 06. 2011 15:25:18 |
Bravo, nice tour to the highest mountain in Slovenia to which no marked path leads! Great!
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| drofebo129. 06. 2011 15:17:00 |
Hi, Navihan!
Interesting, how city people differ from mountaineers. In the city you greet some and they don't even greet back. Mountaineer thanks you for the humble chocolate in first aid. I hope it was sweet enough and went down well. That humble gift was left by my good friends from the mountaineering section Vinarjev-AO Kozjak. Now let me tell you a short story what happened on that unlucky day five years ago. Mountaineers of that section were returning from High Rokav and there was a slip through Ozebnik. In that two members of that section died fatally. That's why they organize every year on that day a hike to Ozebnik, where at the memorial plaque they light a candle and with a minute of silence remember them. Now tell, if mountaineers are not humble and good-hearted people. Best, Bogdan.
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| matejam26. 09. 2011 08:17:38 |
On Saturday 24.9.2011 I forgot the camera in front of Bivak II, which I noticed only at the top of Middle Rokav. On later return to the bivouac the camera safely waited for me on the shelf in the bivouac. To the kind finder (hope he is a user of this portal) I sincerely thank for the shown honesty and help!!! Hope we meet sometime and I can repay for the kindness!
Mateja
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| urbancek25. 11. 2011 22:17:38 |
Today from Stenar I looked to that end and saw a dot on the top, now don't know if on Rokav or on Oltar (if it can even be seen from Stenar)... If by chance someone from forum members was up there today I'm curious?
Regards!
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| Navihan26. 11. 2011 23:29:09 |
@urbancek
Yesterday my friend and I were on Middle and High Rokav. Ozebnik is sufficiently filled to allow winter access to the col.
Entry to the wall of H. Rokav is snowy, likewise still at two key points higher towards the summit, so there was quite a bit of crampon changing.
Rgds
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| urbancek27. 11. 2011 08:55:02 |
Wow, great, then I saw you two, I think timewise somewhere from 11.20 to 11.55, tell if it matches hehe
Rgds!
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| lijaneja24. 06. 2012 17:14:04 |
Today I fell for the weathermen again. At least it's good that I started relatively early and chose a high enough mountain that fog didn't reach it. Even the nearer Oltar didn't clear completely even once in three quarters of an hour, so as punishment I don't even have a picture of it.
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| urbancek24. 06. 2012 19:32:16 |
Well, forecast for mountain world on arso.gov was in the last days for us who go to mountains quite wrong Great, but did you go alone? Did you have rope with you for abseil or how did it go?
Rgds!
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| lijaneja25. 06. 2012 07:20:52 |
Yes, Urbanček, I went alone. Just because of the "pleasant" weather forecast, I decided at the last moment. But the rope I always use only at descent just above ozebnik, so in future I won't carry it to top anymore, but leave it at mentioned belay.
Conditions in ozebnik are now ideal and worth trying.
I think mandatory crampons, ice axe and helmet here don't need mentioning at all and are self-evident.
Good luck!
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| dprapr25. 06. 2012 08:49:23 |
Nice and demanding tour, congratulations!
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| skrajnik17. 08. 2012 14:22:15 |
The day before yesterday and yesterday wandering around the B2 area at Jezerih.
Goal of day 1 - Visoki Rokav. At the bivouac we lighten our packs and climb to
the big scree slope and across it to the entrance of the Rokav glacier. There rocks already whizz past us, but
you have to be prepared for that, especially in summer when there is no more snow. As soon as possible to shelter under the boulder, where
one by one we scramble over it and along the wall slowly towards the notch. Here and there a rock flies by, but
we're somehow on the "safe" line and soon spot the beautiful cirque "V kotlu". We enjoy moments of this wild view
and slowly prepare for 2 pitches. Below the entrance we find old poles, which gives us a hint that we're not alone.
We start with nice climbing towards the top, in really incredible surroundings, but at the 2nd belay I hear rumbling above and rockfall coming
towards me. I dodge a bit, but later better hide under the rock. I spot the party above me and after a couple of rock
falls we agree they wait a bit. Everything is quite loose and unstable and you trigger something right away. This will be an interesting
descent, I think. We continue to the top, at the top joy; but soon silence from all beauties and wildly beautiful surroundings. A couple
chats about future wishes, photos and time passed, the party ahead should have descended from the glacier by now.
We slowly descend, together with rockfalls, when at the 2nd belay we hear shouts about rocks. They're not out yet!
They say they need another 5 min, as they're at the end. Of course we wait, aware of the glacier's seriousness. When 10-15 minutes pass,
we yell a couple of times where they are and no answer - we go! Slowly to the route entrance and down the glacier. At the penultimate stance
a helicopter flies below the glacier and rises over the Rokavs, then descends again. We slowly realize something is wrong
and stop. The heli rises and descends a couple more times. I go to the middle of the glacier and see they're lifting someone. Crisis - accident!
When all ends we finally hear from the other that it was an accident - rock to the head. We descend to the end, pick up
poles and glasses and to the bivouac. There we learn the whole story, which somehow bitters the entire experience. Accident - and after the exit
from the glacier, 30m from all difficulties! After the talk and best wishes we part and in a couple of hours head to sleep in the B2 shelter.
Day 2 return via Škranatarica to the valley.
Wild adventure in inspiring places!
To the injured gentleman we wish the quickest recovery!
(could easily be any of us :| ...)
PS: Rokav glacier in summer objectively + relatively dangerous, if anyone ahead turn back... I will.
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| Daaam17. 08. 2012 14:46:42 |
I watched you from Škrlatica .. also later during descent watched helicopter flyovers.. Congrats on super tour.. to the injured wish quickest recovery..
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| lijaneja17. 08. 2012 17:48:46 |
Yes, accident never rests. I visit Rokav in June, when glacier still all snow, and approach over scree easier, as at least upper third covered with snow. There is slip risk,(24. 6. 2006) but you're guilty yourself. Crampons and ice axe mandatory for me on this tour.
I also wish injured quickest recovery.
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| Duco17. 08. 2012 21:44:18 |
We also watched the whole rescue from Grlo, just descended from Mali Oltar. I join the wishes for recovery!
To Rokav better go in spring, seems to me, as lijaneja says. Nothing pulls me into that loaded gully.
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| 1mitjas18. 07. 2013 14:11:01 |
Nataša called me a couple days ago with the wish to ascend the Rokavs. Since the snow hours are slowly running out I suggested immediate action. So Nataša and David headed to the bivouac already Tuesday evening and slept there.
In the morning we arranged at 7h, so I had to get up just after 4 myself. Path to bivouac II over screes in the part through the gully shows some consequences of autumn rains. Here and there some step is higher than last year. Above bivouac to the end of scree under Rokav glacier offers a snow tongue. Of course we gladly used it, since ascent over scree is practically almost impossible. Glacier is covered with snow right to the start of climbing on High Rokav. Towards the top as usual in Martuljek, checking every step and hold.
When we descended back to glacier we used the early morning hour and climbed also to Middle Rokav. Here rock is much better, difficulties smaller too. Only descent through glacier and slogging over screes to valley left.
Ascent to Rokavs will be possible for those not too masochistic this year another week, then no more snow under glacier. In glacier snow reserve is a bit larger, but holes will slowly appear here too, snow will dwindle. Glacier without snow is a chapter for itself, I went down here once dry and up dry I never go.
Pictures here: http://gorski.vodnik.alpinizem.net/blog/
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