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Visoki Rokav

koma14. 06. 2014 20:54:04

I didn't go into details, didn't notice any belay on top. But according to all descriptions approach difficulties from Kotels to col II degree (somewhere I saw rock step: II degree, peg). I haven't been there myself, but would definitely first approach from Kotels direction and then assess difficulties. Haven't been to Lower Rokav either, but planned in near future. I know @lijaneja you've been to SR and a more detailed description would be welcome. It would be interesting if wanting all three Rokavs, which approach more time-efficient, over bivak II or bivak IV if returning to same start, or better do a loop!

1mitjas14. 06. 2014 21:15:55

Descent to kotel done, ascent and return take a bit more than 2h

(+2)

lijaneja14. 06. 2014 21:46:40

Hello, koma.
Surely there is a shorter variant past bivak II - Rokav glacier - VR - SR - descent to Kotel (if belay exists) - Lower Rokav and return the same way. The tour execution is much easier when the screes are still under snow, so you would have to execute the tour in the next three weeks.
Of course more variants exist, also bivouac sleep (II or IV), but then the backpack is too heavy mrk pogled

(+1)

lijaneja14. 06. 2014 21:51:05

Mitja, thanks for the good news.

koma14. 06. 2014 22:06:39

Thanks @lijaneja, definitely will tackle Lower Rokav first!

JusAvgustin15. 06. 2014 12:39:46

Ridge traverse to all four Rokavs falls more into "still alive" category. But to start at High and then to Middle from Middle again to saddle and descent to Kotels, and along ledge to Lower Rokav and descent over Kališče to Rdeči potok is very-very risky if you don't know terrain. In your place I'd sleep at IV descend from saddle under Škrlatica to Kotels, go to Lower Rokav return and continue to col, go to Middle Rokav and then to High Rokav and descend to II. If not familiar I don't recommend this tour. All three in one day is solid undertaking. Maybe last variant will please you most. From High to Middle and from Middle abseil to ridge of Rogljati Rokav, from there along ridge to Lower Rokav, reverse strongly not recommended. From Lower R. you withdraw either with 3 rope descents to Kotels or "on foot".

Good luck!

(+3)

CarpeDiem24715. 06. 2014 13:57:23

Juš, somewhat confused, are there three or four Rokavs total? Haven't been around there yet, but confused me a bit, since I know three, don't know if fourth exists or just typing error or whatever? nasmeh

(+3)

JusAvgustin15. 06. 2014 18:05:07

Lower, Rogljati, Middle, High. Rokav group.

(+4)

koma16. 06. 2014 14:30:27

Thanks, Juš, for the clear explanation! nasmeh

(+1)

Hammond16. 06. 2014 22:05:03

Where is this Rogljati Rokav mentioned or marked for example?

(+7)

lizika17. 06. 2014 05:39:16

Just as the "red booklet" is always the fastest, so is Juš's head the smartest velik nasmeh

Vladimir Habjan is certainly a man who knows something about mountains mežikanje

actually much more than just something nasmeh

http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/22081/

(+6)

lingo17. 06. 2014 07:47:18

Now the question just arises - who is the best poser?

(+5)

dolina vrata20. 06. 2014 13:01:37

15 hours from Vrata valley to Rokav and back zavijanje z očmi

it writes "walk", "little peak", "you really got back fast" and similar. These words don't "match" with those 15 hours. Again, someone who pushes into such terrain to boast in front of "friends". A friend is the one who never boasts with such words as I wrote. When they get "hooked" then mountain rescuers are in the role, who risk their lives to rescue such. That's why I wrote this to our alpinist trainees, because I also climbed recently but didn't post it anywhere, nor with whom, because it spreads on web/FB with whom you go and what you climbed... people are lurking like hunters for game. No hard feelings mežikanje

(+8)

dprapr20. 06. 2014 15:02:04

But now you still posted that you were there! nasmeh

If you added pictures, the post would be even more interesting.

lijaneja23. 06. 2014 18:03:52

Nice tour.
Missing photos of neighboring peaks from VR. If you have any, please upload.
My favorite approach is over Brinje, descent scree express.

(+2)

pika23. 06. 2014 18:53:36

Pictures of neighboring peaks from my side. Also attaching pics of initiators and organizers, Zdravko and Strikanec, who enabled us to enjoy this excellent tour.

(+4)

brina23. 06. 2014 20:03:40

Pika, to you and the group sincere congrats and many more similar ascents

(+2)

lijaneja23. 06. 2014 20:30:49

Thanks, pika.
I see that Kotel is still full of scree, and in Dnina sand is already showing.

jedriličar17. 07. 2014 11:31:15

Yesterday the Rokavs were up, High and Middle. Start at 6 from Vrata, nice day, not much sun, pleasant for walking and climbing. Conditions ok, up to below Šplevta just two small snow patches to cross, lots of snow in the couloir still, nice and hard, two ice axes would come in handy, especially for descent. Walls dry, except first bit in the entry chimney of High Rokav, rest nothing special. Of course, rockfall everywhere around. Gotta climb carefully 'like on eggs'. Descent from the Big one by rope (recommend 60m for quicker descent, possible with 30m too but multiple times), belays nicely set and perfect, then went on to Middle, there much easier than Big one and can descend without rope, we rappelled the first, downclimbed the second because I didn't like the lower belay (just one peg and it's suspicious). For descent down the couloir two ice axes good, afternoon it softens a lot and dangerously slippery. Then 2 more hours descent (scree express, enough for me for a while) to Dovje for beer, then home ... total tour 12 hours .... pics coming ...