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Visoki Rokav

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KLAN9. 09. 2021 18:01:07
Thanks for the advice, I've already downclimbed into the cauldron in reverse without rope solo but this onward to Škrlatica would be even harder if there was fog, the ridges will wait anyway a nice while until I'm no longer green in Martuljek ends, no hurry anyway, if not then Oltar again quite enough. Nicely written otherwisevelik nasmeh
Good lucknasmeh
Exit from the wall into the cirque1
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črow9. 09. 2021 20:15:24
KLAN you are ripe for enrollment in alpinist school. Enrollments soon and sign up somewhere. You'll get lots of knowledge and enjoy the mountains even more. They taught us once that every monkey knows how to climb, in mountains you need to know more. Don't mean anything bad, read everything you write and admire you.
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črow10. 09. 2021 13:15:41
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KLAN28. 06. 2022 19:20:44
Hello my mountain colleagues, does anyone know the condition in Ozebnik and from Ozebnik to Rokav? Any stalagmites yet? Did winter nicely "remodel" it or without major changes? Any info helps, missing romance so go seek it on Rokav nasmeh!
LP
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redbull28. 06. 2022 20:39:46
Lan, you really like those Rokavs, look at something else toonasmehmežikanje
Good luck
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Nadvojvoda28. 06. 2023 02:18:47
Can anyone who's been to V. Rokav say if a 30m rope is long enough for the descent, is 60m necessary? Lp
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Filip_Culjak28. 06. 2023 06:15:13
30m is enough, there are enough anchors.
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Urbban28. 06. 2023 08:47:51
With 60m rope you do a 30m descent - with 30m rope only 15m. That's too little, need 60m rope.
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lijaneja28. 06. 2023 09:10:57
I use a 40m 9mm rope, which fully suffices for the only descent just above the saddle.
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Filip_Culjak29. 06. 2023 00:16:31
15m descent is not too little, given the number of anchors it's perfectly sufficient, unless you want to abseil from the top to the notch. Urbban, 60m is your choice, but in reality it's not needed.
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Nadvojvoda1. 07. 2023 13:28:34
Thanks to everyone for the info
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janezs732. 07. 2023 07:51:23
With all due respect, guys, don't mess around with 30 m. 45m is minimum, normal gear is 60m, with everything else. Urbban said it completely correctly. If you don't know the person, then don't give advice that's on the edge and in many situations can lead to trouble. The trick isn't that we can climb down there without rope, but in using the rope when circumstances corner us.
Possible challenges on the Rokavs are swarming. Psychological ones too, if you're not experienced enough.
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redbull2. 07. 2023 09:07:08
With all that you've said it means that the ascent is done with someone who knows the alpinistic ascent. Alone without ever having been up there don't climb! I've been a few times, and I can say no ascent is the same. The more times you go it should be easier, for me it was just the opposite nasmeh
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dprapr2. 07. 2023 11:57:30
Advice to a teen naturally differs in rope length. In any case safe descent will be needed. nasmeh
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Trobec1. 07. 2025 09:39:37
Everyone here goes to High Rokav, we prefer the Middle one cool

Well... if it were really such a simple decision... Conditions in the glacier are far from ideal. Mildly put - very bad. Very little snow, everything flies down, plus after the snowfield we go too far left into really unenviable terrain. Too much strength, concentration and ultimately luck already spent... And still have to count on time for abseil through glacier and below tied to the bus.
But climbing Middle Rokav, up and down compared to glacier is real balm for the soul velik nasmeh

https://trobec.blogspot.com/2025/07/srednji-rokav-2862025.html
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lijaneja1. 07. 2025 10:58:41
Nice that you delved into writing. I appreciate that. The glacier is too dangerous in my opinion after the end of May, and winter must be quite generous with snow. The upper part of the glacier is first hollow and unfortunately the steepest, where rocks never stay. Even if you luckily dodge rockfall in the glacier itself, the danger of projectiles from the Rokav slopes awaits you, especially if someone is in the wall. Tell me, please, if you peeked towards Kotel, since from that side no gear is needed and it is much safer, unfortunately also looooong.
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djimuzl1. 07. 2025 11:34:35
Bravo, congrats nasmeh
No. 31 though cool
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lijaneja1. 07. 2025 11:56:00
Right. The pic is twisted by some three degrees.nasmeh
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Trobec1. 07. 2025 11:59:59
Thanks, had to let out the "intense experience"zadrega
Yes, learned timing wasn't ideal, next time different date nasmeh
Kotli are also more or less hollow. Colleague checked descent option there. But yeah, due to bus tie-in didn't want surprises.

With pic 31 phone really wasn't quite in "level" cool
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turbo1. 07. 2025 12:25:41
Thirty years ago, roughly, early June was ideal for Rokav glacier, nicely snow-covered. Once even great slide down it, continuing via Jugova gully to the other side. Now though . . . . zavijanje z očmi
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