| KLAN26. 08. 2021 18:01:45 |
Hahaha this guy is just like Juša, totally messed up And someone else... Master, I don't know if you're joking out of boredom or not, but this question is out of context, let me explain. Visoki Rokav is martulka, when you hear martulka think immediately alpinist ascents, pathless terrain, rocks fly, everything breaks, whatever you grab and wherever you step flies down the valley, no cables on Rokav because nowhere to bolt them. Martulka also isn't the area where folks start their "career" related to pathless routes, martuljek is wilderness and crumbling, when I was on Rokav everything flew down where I stepped, even if I just pushed a bit it flew down without reason. If you already want martuljek go to Kurji vrh first. Then there's also tour length, orientation etc... if you don't have a bit more fitness (usually if I'm solo or with someone who matches my pace I do Oltar roundtrip in 4h) I warmly advise against all this, it shows from your writing that you're still new in the mountains, go explore Begunjščica, Stol, Košuta further, local hills if you have some nearby, to get a bit more fitness, to some alpinist school, in 2 years also (if you're diligent) include some more demanding tours in yours, e.g. for the first longer one Grintovec is ideal, nice 1700m elevation gain, then in 3 years, if you're - again depends on you - diligent enough then start with cables. And get complete gear, then for sniffing out looseness I recommend Kočni over Kremžarca, then maybe in some 3 years, if you manage Kočni and some pathless so you become a bit of a trailblazer, go with someone who's already been up to Kukova Špica to taste some martuljski šodr, to some špik, then if you have alpinist school (the best) you can start with Dovški Križ, then Oltar, Velika M. Ponca, Škrnatarica, and then Rokav. Otherwise from Kotli you can go up, but again pathless and not straight there, first you have to go to Škrlatica ridge and down again and then to the cirque under Dolka lohk you fly, but unless you're committing suicide, I think you wouldn't want that, I don't want to be pushy or anything, but I really advise against it, I give myself as example, last time I went to Oltar solo I already messed up a bit down in the stream bed then even right below Oltar summit messed up the plateau and went too far left into some weird wall of earth, what did I know, anyway we climbed it, somehow I got clean to Oltar summit, and there was fog too but nothing serious because I have plenty of experience, it just lacks that they find you somewhere in the valley, for me otherwise at Oltar the most demanding part is to find from Grlo down because I always screw up there and then weird collapsed II's and III's in reverse I climb and invent new curses, so I can only say NO dude, stay safe! And guys, please be gentle with him, you can see he just reads and researches and I think he didn't want to piss anyone off crazy You, sharpie, follow my advice, I think other advice will be much wilder and stricter than mine! And enjoy!
| (+5) |  | |
|
|