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| lijaneja28. 06. 2019 09:43:01 |
Rokavi - long ones - for yesterday's strong sunshine recommended protection. People seem more health-aware, staying home in the shade; didn't meet a soul on the all-day tour.
A little after 6 I park at Poldov rov and go deliberately along the bed of Rdeči potok, as the popular Brinova glava approach is already sunny early, but this way I got sun only a little below the bivouac.
At the boulders under the huge scree, I put on crampons and enjoy just right firm snow all the way to the saddle between the Rokavi. I bury the water bottle in the snow, stash the ice axe, crampons and some other unnecessary junk, and start climbing. I notice that each time I go up there are more equipped anchors (probably due to winter ascents), but I always use only the bottom one. On top I enjoy great views and just right temperature for quite some time, and since there is no living soul far around, even in underpants.
On top there is a new neatly made summit box with a book, but I doubt it will last as long as the previous one, almost 20 years. The same master made the box on Middle Rokav too, as I went up there to sign.
On descent the glacier snow was noticeably softer, but my ass didn't allow any other return than reverse gear.
I also stayed longer in the bivouac where there was a slight draft all the time, as the sun was still high, so from Matterhorn onwards I descended in the shade. The little spring never disappoints me and I reluctantly parted from the excellent cold water. I also stopped for refreshment at Dani's and checked how the workers are progressing with the sidewalk
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| mito300028. 06. 2019 10:01:41 |
Bravo Tone. Shame I couldn't join, I'd probably overheat from all this.
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| lijaneja28. 06. 2019 11:24:46 |
Well next year, Matjaž, if I'm still up to it...
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| dprapr28. 06. 2019 11:41:23 |
Great Tone, you do tours like some youngster. Thanks for the pics.
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| lijaneja28. 06. 2019 15:53:02 |
Thanks, guys! But I don't even reach your knees. The first in expertise, the second in fitness.
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| kolpa10. 08. 2019 10:24:32 |
Hello!
Please provide "fresh" information: what's the state of the Rokav glacier and which route is more suitable now for access to the saddle between Middle and High Rokav - from Kotla or via Jezerc. Thanks.
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| lijaneja10. 08. 2019 13:18:28 |
Miran, if no one replies with fresh info, I can assure you the glacier is very demanding and dangerous now. Jump below, higher 'moving' slope. I'd go (if I had to now) from Kotla.
Good luck!
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| JusAvgustin10. 08. 2019 16:56:46 |
From Veliki Oltar is still the best approach. Personally I'd avoid the approach through RO and really rather go from Kotla. Good luck and stay safe.
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| plesec11. 08. 2019 00:39:25 |
4.8. (previous week) the glacier was almost snow-free. Just before going from glacier to ridge, we had to step on snow about 10 times. We went along the right edge of glacier (looking upwards).
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| Dr_Ursic1. 09. 2019 09:48:04 |
Hi,
I was there yesterday. As @lijaneja wrote, great caution is needed due to rockfall - rocks.
LPD
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| alyas24. 05. 2020 23:04:03 |
Mitharjev Tal/Poldov Rovt – Bivouac 2 – Na Jezerih – Rokav Glacier - High Rokav – Middle Rokav and back … Conditions & Pictures – Saturday, 23.5.2020
Up along the Red Stream, all the way to the bivouac except for some patches, no snow, and even on the plain Na Jezerih it's already melting, but the Rokav Glacier is still heavily loaded, so currently (and it will be like this for a while) it allows a comfortable ascent to the saddle between the Rokavs. Snow from the surrounding walls has already avalanched off, so there's not much rock in it either. Both normal approaches – where the pegs and belay stations for protection are installed, both on High and Middle Rokav are practically snow-free and there's not much loaded scree on the slabs and rocks either.
Since visits to the Rokavs are not frequent, attached some more photos with views of the surroundings, and perhaps I add a warning for all those who like to park cars outside the designated spots in TNP, … where Mitharjev Tal is, I newly realized after the ranger sticker (luckily it stayed just a warning).
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| redbull25. 05. 2020 08:08:01 |
Nice!
That ranger must have been in a really good, cheerful mood at that moment
Good luck
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| bos25. 05. 2020 08:08:44 |
Great, you were with M. J., if I see right.
Where did you park, there by the road as usual or somewhere else? Because a few years ago I also got this warning, I parked a bit further on the right because the classic parking was full.
Good luck.
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| lijaneja25. 05. 2020 08:17:55 |
Good tour you did. I usually visit them in the second half of June, when there's still enough snow in the glacier and at least some below it, because the access scree field is very annoying to me. You probably parked in the spot right off the track under the cabin? Yes, the lady mentioned to me several times that rangers regularly check that area. And such a nice, shady, dust-free spot it is...
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| dprapr25. 05. 2020 09:43:04 |
Nice tour.
I hope that parking spot by the sign won't be a problem either.
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| j.25. 05. 2020 10:10:45 |
Nice tour! Congratulations and good luck further!
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| di25. 05. 2020 17:52:27 |
What should be the maximum slope (in degrees) in the glacier between the Rokavs (and maybe some other interesting info)?
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| gams125. 05. 2020 18:35:48 |
 why does that interest you, do you want to ski down there; ... I once had that mania: to ski all the glaciers or couloirs - gullies and similar ditches
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