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Visoki Rokav

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Filip_Zagreb31. 10. 2015 08:34:04
Thanks to everyone for help and info. Best regards, I'll report conditions if anyone is interested.
(+7)like
mlubej2. 11. 2015 11:15:53
@Filip_Zagreb We're interested nasmeh
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Filip_Zagreb3. 11. 2015 10:06:13
I was on Middle Rokav, due to snow on ledges between chimneys and a bit higher I gave up on High Rokav. There were tracks, day before climbing mates were up there said guy I met in bivouac. To top of Middle Rokav no snow, also on second pitch two variants, one left thru mini gully (icy), I chose right one following ridge. In ice patch snow just enough, with crampons and ice axe can go up, rocky jump climbed left side (bit icy). On descent from top used abseil
I bypassed that jump on the left, poor holds due to friability (I)1
Conditions in the ozebnik2
First part of ascent to Srednji Rokav, path goes up left3
Along indistinct ledge right then left upwards4
To the edge of the ridge right...5
and upwards6
here a bit below possible to traverse left then up mini gully (saw tracks too, but left crampons at Rokavska škrbina and chose right variant)7
Descent to the notch8
Traverse to the left from the notch9
last bypass on right side of ridge before summit10
at summit of Srednji Rokav, 2589m (my brother)11
Triglav and my tiny self from the top12
first abseil on descent13
and second abzajl14
exit from the couloir15
morning tea...16
with a view of Triglav17
red is our route, I didn't mark the tracks all the way to the top; black is the variant through the iced gully18
entrance to the wall of Visoki Rokav19
and the second part of the path to Visoki Rokav, I marked the direction approximately where I saw tracks20
(+16)like
Filip_Zagreb3. 11. 2015 10:06:58
Sorry for bad Slovenian, I'm trying to write as good as possible without pure Croatian
(+9)like
Wine3. 11. 2015 12:07:49
Bravo guys! nasmeh
(+2)like
Tomaž113. 11. 2015 13:21:56
Filip congrats and you write much nicer than some Slovenes who here settle scores, pontificate etc.
(+5)like
Wine3. 11. 2015 13:43:50
We settle scores among ourselves velik nasmeh
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Filip_Zagreb3. 11. 2015 13:51:13
thanks, Tomaž nasmeh Wine, you could have been with us jezik
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Wine3. 11. 2015 13:53:01
next time nasmeh
(+1)like
strelec19543. 11. 2015 16:06:07
Filip, attaching a photo of the team that was on the summit on Sunday taken on the way from Škrlatice nasmeh
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(+5)like
Filip_Zagreb3. 11. 2015 18:56:08
nice photo nasmeh thanks, strelec! nice memory
(+4)like
Maemi5. 11. 2015 09:35:06
Filip, excellent report and congrats on the ascent! nasmeh
(+2)like
Filip_Zagreb5. 11. 2015 15:29:25
thanks nasmeh it was a gorgeous day and super conditions, at the first opportunity I'll return
(+1)like
andrejp19. 11. 2015 09:59:42
Yesterday, nicely spent vacation day.
A&J
Morning1
where the bivouac used to be2
our goal V and S Rokav3
before the jump into the snowfield4
summit5
waiting for new log entries6
when they take away the bivouac7
S Rokav8
poser9
Očak in the afternoon sun10
simply beautiful11
S Rokav12
descent into the snowfield13
,,nothing there,,14
(+15)like
ciklama19. 11. 2015 11:52:12
Brave guys, bravo!nasmehnasmehnasmeh
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Guest18. 06. 2016 20:20:51
Well, in the second attempt it finally succeeded for me. First time I was alone and at the top of the glacier I rather turned back. How right I was showed itself today. For an ordinary hiker this is really too difficult a mountain. With two alpinists it went without problems and completely safe. Over Brinova glava we climbed to Šplevta and then to the glacier. To its foot without winter gear. Conditions in the glacier ideal, jump still filled, snow softened just right. Then climbing part, for me first time in life on rope. Fantastic. We fiddled a bit and chose slightly harder variant, but reached the top. We descended another path and after two abseils down to top of glacier. Had two 60-meter ropes. Then descent on it and past now former bivouac 2 over scree to valley. Who wants to, now see bivouac 2 in Mojstrana next to museum.
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palček plezalček9. 07. 2016 21:54:32
In Vrata at conical tower the morning started. At Jezerih a nice day showed itself and in Rokav notch already heard lively chatter on Škrlatica, which had quite some visitors. At top of Middle Rokav sun still shining, but clouds gathering slowly from all sides and when they embraced Škrlatica, her visitors quieted, quickly leaving the top. On return to notch it seemed fog and clouds ruled the world, so better to bail down the glacier and skip planned High Rokav. nasmeh
Snow in glacier not hard, but all gear quite necessary. Today also with whistling rocks quite lively and not at all exciting mrk pogled
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Maemi9. 07. 2016 22:04:34
You blew right into the Rokavs and we were so close to wave hello.
This is finger-licking good. Nice, really NICE! nasmeh
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JusAvgustin9. 07. 2016 22:07:56
If you don't know it it's really better to give up. Smart decision. Go next time from VO together to VR. Nothing shocking. And one alt approach to the highest unmarked peak.wink
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palček plezalček9. 07. 2016 22:10:49
Juš, if there's nothing shocking, then I don't know why I should go (kidding) big grin
(+1)like
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