|
| lijaneja17. 07. 2014 19:38:49 |
Due to quite promising weather forecast and a free day, Marijan and I spontaneously decide to visit the Rokave. Basic plan VR, approach via Brinova glava, return past bivouac II and Rdeči potok. Soon after start, the only time that day I get pissed realizing we missed the bench at the viewpoint - figured it out only when we reached scree below Kopicami - everything else went smooth as butter.
On the green hillock before scree under couloir we put on crampons, ice axe and helmet, and on ideal snow reach the dry saddle between V and SR in a blink. Here we ditch crampons and unnecessary gear, and head to the chimney entry. But, that was counting without the innkeeper. To the entry about 10m snow in steep pitch and we thought we'd have to go back for crampons, but no need. Between wall and dirty snow just enough space to squeeze to the chimney. From there to summit no unexpected issues. Up top we took time for photos, snack and rest. Since Marijan doesn't go on harder peaks without rope, we used it for two pitches on descent.
No sign of afternoon storms, so we decide for SR too, right there, reached summit in mere 10 mins. Sky clearing more, photos wouldn't end. Descending past bivouac Na jezerih heard some thunder towards Pokljuka, but not scared, had scree express ahead. Whole trip no living soul, only Škrlatica had some visitors.
ATTENTION:
Summit log on VR completely soaked due to carelessly closed PVC containers, dripping wet. Took it home to dry, so potential VR visitors next week please arrange pickup.
 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
| (+2) |  | |
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin17. 07. 2014 19:46:07 |
Don't take it to museum. We'll set up a new one.
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| lijaneja17. 07. 2014 21:20:45 |
Probably not good for elsewhere, Juš. Good to care for proper packaging too; think plastic isn't the best.
|
|
|
|
| lynx17. 07. 2014 22:15:40 |
There on descent (21.), why another blue prusik over the rope? Doesn't it just make retrieval harder?
|
|
|
|
| jedriličar17. 07. 2014 22:22:11 |
That one was prepared for @lijaneja to tie in ... of course if left up couldn't retrieve the rope 
|
|
|
|
| lynx17. 07. 2014 23:41:05 |
Might work if not jammed. Looked like a brake, but too high at anchor for that to hold water. Didn't think it could be just for aid downclimbing.
|
|
|
|
| jedriličar18. 07. 2014 07:55:06 |
If you're abseiling vertically, then you need a pulley above the prusik that takes the load, if abseiling on such gullies or chimneys that aren't fully vertical, then you can do it just with prusik, without pulley, but you gotta watch that the prusik doesn't grip too much, cuz it's hard to unload it then to go further. If @lijaneja ain't good with knots, then I'll make him a prusik and leave it ready on the rope, if I go down first. And here the thing with that prusik ends ...
|
|
|
|
| Dr.ejči18. 07. 2014 16:29:43 |
Nice "nailed" day...
|
|
|
|
| lijaneja20. 07. 2014 16:07:35 |
The summit logbook is dried out, only three pages left blank. I think it doesn't make sense to return it to the mountain and it's really just for the museum now, as Juš noted. Up there it lasted 19 years, but interestingly, some Austrian brought it up on 28.6.1995. This 40-page logbook would have lasted another year or so if all visitors were "literate". Many scribbled all over the page; and if it had been better protected from weather or at least properly closed in the aforementioned boxes.
 1
| (+6) | | |
|
|
|
|
| miri20. 07. 2014 16:11:22 |
If only there were many such mountaineers who care for our history. Thanks, lijaneja
| (+3) | | |
|
|
|
|
| dprapr20. 07. 2014 16:55:39 |
Interesting would be the number of all entries in the logbook over these 19 years. Did you count them?
Probably not everyone signs, and in winter it's surely buried, but still...
Regards
| (+3) | | |
|
|
|
|
| lijaneja20. 07. 2014 18:23:06 |
You gave me work, Drago.
I counted about 530 entries, with some of us signing multiple times.
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| miri20. 07. 2014 18:32:22 |
For one small bus per year.
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| Macesna19. 05. 2015 23:21:57 |
Today we were on Middle Rokav. We slept at bivouac 2. Wind was raging already at night, in the upper storeys it was blowing even more wildly. Rokav icefield is filled, snow was south-facing early on. On Mid. Rokav there's one ledge covered with snow and ice, which can be bypassed on rocks to the right, otherwise it's steep.
These are data on conditions, but the views and feelings when you climb to the top of the icefield and look at the enchanted castles around are indescribable.
| (+14) | | |
|
|
|
|
| hannes927. 10. 2015 21:11:23 |
This email is special for "lianeja". On 20 July 2014 you wrote about the summit book on High Rokav.
I am Hannes from Arnoldstein-Carinthia, Austria, my wife is Jeanette. We placed one book on the summit on 28 June 1995.
We were then on 7 July 2002 once more on the summit.
I would like to know where that book is now? Whoever knows, please write email. My address: hannes92@gmx.at
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| hannes927. 10. 2015 21:30:56 |
I forgot to write: "Hvala lepa in adijo" - for some information about the little book from High Rokav.
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.