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| sharpie26. 08. 2021 18:09:03 |
@dijmuzl and @KLAN thx for advice, I'm an even bigger beginner than you wrote. Haven't been that high yet, highest was Stenar, even that I slept at K. podih, there I heard about High Rokav and Great Oltar too. And 4 guys talked like it's nothing. And since 2600m+ interested me. Didn't wanna anger anyone, thx for info. Anyway Prisank, Škrlatica, Skuta and Planjava over Repov kot planned for next year. Will consult colleague who's an alpinist, thx again
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| KLAN26. 08. 2021 18:23:05 |
So so You wrote it nicer than I did And happy exploring (we've all been at that point once like you now) Enjoy!
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| Trobec26. 08. 2021 18:39:15 |
@KLAN, you really elaborated But yeah, very good advice. I myself first thought it was a joke
@sharpie, well, easiest 2600m around here...there are none. Actually Razor is the "easiest". Last part can be interesting, but they say they added quite a few new pegs and eased it. And it's marked.
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| redbull26. 08. 2021 19:04:08 |
A bit too long, otherwise useful advice.
Peaks you have next year planned, you can move them to this year already.
Good luck
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| KLAN26. 08. 2021 19:33:52 |
On computer you write fast haha
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| JusAvgustin27. 08. 2021 11:19:42 |
Yes, paper takes everything...
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| lijaneja27. 08. 2021 12:21:21 |
Hi, Juš!
Got any fresh info on glacier condition?
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| dprapr27. 08. 2021 15:31:50 |
True, Juš.
"rocks fly, everything breaks, everything you grab and everywhere you step, all flies to the valley..."
Eh, not that bad really.
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| redbull27. 08. 2021 15:41:46 |
If it were that bad, you wouldn't be writing to us here
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| KLAN27. 08. 2021 20:09:37 |
Nothing (except if I get stuck somewhere hehe) but if he wrote a bit nicer I'd go up, something would happen, well anyway it's his business
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| lijaneja7. 09. 2021 20:59:29 |
Bravo, guys!
Yeah, the scree field devours a lot of energy, especially time. That's why I visit this mountain at least two months earlier, as it's much easier with snow, and there's still plenty of time for Middle Rokav.
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| KLAN8. 09. 2021 14:36:44 |
The guys were really diligent, they had luxury weather, but maybe someone knows if the glacier is so bare that there's no need to drag winter gear anymore? I'd continue on to Škrlatica, maybe hop to Oltar first but I don't know if it's already so bare that there's no more of that compacted concrete, as I remember dropping into the cauldron there without a rope after that torrent, and please if someone could refresh my cauldron-Škrlatica knowledge a bit, in my memory (there was fog) I only remember that you descend to cca 2350m?
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| JusAvgustin8. 09. 2021 15:26:04 |
I hope someone answers this for you. I'd rather not.
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| KLAN8. 09. 2021 15:31:20 |
Thanks anyway Juš!
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| redbull8. 09. 2021 16:49:36 |
If you made it to the cauldron and out of it in the fog, you'll probably make it in good weather too. The glacier is another story though, so you got a similar answer as from Jus.
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| KLAN8. 09. 2021 17:05:53 |
At least it's an answer, I totally get why I'm getting such answers, but from Oltar I'll go through the gate to Škrlatica if it's so close to my heart
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| dprapr8. 09. 2021 20:22:51 |
Well, it's bare along the ridge.
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| KLAN8. 09. 2021 22:06:42 |
Haha, true but I got no partner, mostly go completely solo, and over the overhangs it's work (don't even know if anyone would take me) but yeah, ridge, nice It'll wait a bit more
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| janezs739. 09. 2021 12:25:19 |
Lan, the somewhat sarcastic answers from hikers and alpinists tell you that you don't just hop from Oltar (via Rokav) to Škrlatica "for a quick snack". Between them there's a whole bunch of tricky passages that aren't technically bolted anywhere, but if you miss them, it gets very serious.
Don't do it solo. And don't push into cauldrons without rope, actually nowhere in these parts. Quickly you'll hit a grade 4 (even on ridges) where you have to plan everything differently.
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