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| JusAvgustin18. 07. 2013 16:19:32 |
Complete mountaineering gear mandatory, best to go to VR with someone who's been up there, even better with a GV.
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| 1mitjas18. 07. 2013 21:43:34 |
I agree with Juš's opinion. Crampons, ice axe, knowledge of their use and a few meters of auxiliary rope (I climbed down everything and so some ropes are already very old).
Otherwise Martuljek triple, something might stay in your hands. Summit is one of the loneliest here, takes about 15-20 people per year.
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| funnyboy1. 08. 2013 19:19:29 |
On Tuesday, 30.7. we headed to High Rokav. Path to glacier without issues. Under glacier snow appears, but not much left. If someone plans to go up there, hurry. Warning: extreme danger of falling rocks in glacier!!! During our ascent it fell every 5-10 min, so we hurried a bit. Further ascent to summit very crumbly, so careful. Some spots are solid III., so need some experience. Met no one.
Complete tour offering lots of pleasure if you're up to it.
Pictures and some words about tour at
http://graheljsblog.blogspot.com/2013/08/za-uverturo-v-maidene-na-visoki-rokav.html
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| jax1. 08. 2013 19:44:17 |
Nice tour. How was it on Maidens? 
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| funnyboy1. 08. 2013 23:28:59 |
On Maidens it was excellent  . Were you at the concert too?
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| jax1. 08. 2013 23:46:32 |
No, not this time ;-)
I was at Metaldays this year and met quite a few people there heading there too. But for me that was enough. Though it was great there too ...
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| funnyboy2. 08. 2013 08:34:56 |
Too bad you weren't there. Maidens rocked to the end again . But I believe you needed some rest after Metaldays.
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| Jonny_10. 06. 2014 10:25:21 |
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| lukk10. 06. 2014 11:35:14 |
I'm just curious how demanding the path is, what all you need for this path and if there's any other path leading to High Rokav.
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| Daaam10. 06. 2014 12:14:23 |
Lukk ..given your blue question I advise you to redirect attention for now to some less demanding peaks. Get a good book in hand then! Let the Rokavi wait a bit longer ..lp
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| JusAvgustin10. 06. 2014 12:19:29 |
Look guy, I'll tell you in as nice a way as possible... Martuljek group and Rokavi are not suitable for introduction to pathless terrain. There are more reasons but let me name just two: friability of the rock and duration of the tour. There is no path there, all are pathless—from demanding to extremely demanding and risky pathless routes. If I must recommend a tour I recommend you go to some viewpoint in Martuljek e.g. Kurji vrh or Rutarski vršič. I heartily advise against ascents to distinctly pathless peaks, since from your writing you don't seem very skilled in pathless terrain. I'm writing with good intentions, without misleading and unnecessary words. How you interpret the advice depends on you.
No path leads to High Rokav... Hope I've answered you and you won't "poke" anymore
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| viharnik10. 06. 2014 12:34:38 |
Just one interesting ascent to Gamsova špica 1957m above Gruntovnica from the normal path to Špik shows extreme slopes and friable grassy, scree terrain. Higher up, weathered limestone layers in large rocks can break off under grip load alone, let alone foot. I think Juš as a good connoisseur of the higher levels of Martuljek mountains has well described the difficulty of this wild world. I believe that's why it's even more attractive, but without experience or training in such a world, it's very dangerous and risky, even more so if there's no experienced guide ahead, a connoisseur.
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| jure197710. 06. 2014 12:36:19 |
I completely agree with what Juš wrote. I've already traversed a huge number of hills, practically all marked, signposted and secured paths in the Julians, Kamnik-Savinja Alps, and also quite a few vias ferratas in Italy. Martuljek group and Rokavi I did with a mountain guide. Definitely it's a completely different world, difficulty, friability, effort, orientation... A mountaineer not skilled in rope technique, climbing, friable pathless terrain should rather not go alone to those areas. With an experienced companion such tours can really be a very nice experience.
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| Bandzo10. 06. 2014 12:38:55 |
I would like to ask a question here that doesn't directly relate to lukk's question. I'm wondering why, given that the Martuljek group is wonderful, there are no marked paths to many of these peaks? Is it because of the difficulty of the tours themselves, or is the reason elsewhere and more historical? Thanks for the answer,
LP,
Ben
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| dprapr10. 06. 2014 12:41:34 |
Whatever the reason is, it couldn't be better!
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| kovakija10. 06. 2014 12:42:42 |
lukk, Rokavi are treated in mountaineering terminology as alpinistic ascents. That means you need to know rope technique, rope team movement in climbing and need all alpinistic gear for ascent (rope, protection...). If you're a beginner in mountains, I recommend you first get to know the hills and traverse them - of course on marked paths. Otherwise there are more ways to Rokavi, but all are pathless or ridge traverses. Lots of enjoyment in discovering our mountains I wish you and be brave.
Juš, please don't be so patronizing to everyone who just mentions Martuljek. You yourself were once where lukk is now and needed good advice.
ld Boštjan
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| sla10. 06. 2014 12:48:21 |
In Martuljek hills there are marked paths to Škrlatica, Dolkovo špica from the south side and to Špik from the west side. All are demanding, to Škrlatica is even one of the more demanding in our hills. First traverse those. Then tackle easier pathless routes. There is plenty of literature in book and web form. When you're skilled in movement and orientation, you can venture to Oltar, Ponce, Škrnatarica too. The easiest approach is on Kukova špica.
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| koma13. 06. 2014 18:12:05 |
Yesterday 12.6.14, after Oltar and VMP the third Martuljek mountain High Rokav. Start at 6am in the morning from Vrata over Brinja with stop at Šplevta to Rokav glacier. Conditions in glacier ideal, still fully covered, softened compact snow allows fast progress to the col.
Entry chimney requires some climbing technique, a peg helps, then full caution on scree and crumbly traverse to upper chimney. Here I choose left bypass climbing, IMO much easier than right chimney, which probably reaches pretty solid III. but nicely usable for descent as equipped with bolts. After chimney exit some climbing over rock steps to ridge and then to summit no major difficulties. No words needed on summit views. Short rest and descent from upper chimney to col I use rope and bolts available although IMO necessary only for entry chimney.
Since ascent to VR went quite fast and without issues I decide also for Middle Rokav. From col slightly trodden path indicates approx. ascent entry and then scrambling on W part of ridge to ledge with fixed protection and further on ridge to summit. Then descent back to col entirely with rope with two abseils.
On descent through glacier threatening clouds over DK with thunder sounds accompany me constantly, realizing threat 100 meters before bivouac with hail shower! Nevertheless nice and successful tour.
More pics on link:
https://picasaweb.google.com/114984210815592749863/VisokiInSrednjiRokav2014?noredirect=1
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| lijaneja14. 06. 2014 07:59:03 |
Excellent, koma.
Did you perhaps explore anything on the saddle between Rokavs towards Kotel? There a belay for descent into it would be welcome. With that you could visit also Lower Rokav, which with return would take less than two hours.
I always visit it in combination with Škrlatica, so I descend from its shoulder to Kotel and from there to it.
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