Rokson - Recent messages

Viper, you didn't read carefully. In a route with six V+ pitches climbed by equal team, meaning each leads one, no problem.

What if the route has six V+ pitches, two VII- pitches and the leader climbed the hardest pitches? Did both climb a VII-/V route?

What would the Alpinism Commission say to a candidate for alpinist who climbed sufficient number of routes of appropriate difficulty as second in the team? Excerpt from fresh conditions:

"Special:

· At least 30 different summer (rock) alpinistic ascents in at least two different massifs:

o of which at least 5 ascents higher than 500m grade IV or more (as leader or alternating in team),

o of which at least 5 ascents grade IV or more (and higher than 300m or at least 5 pitches) as leader or alternating in team.



· at least 15 different winter alpinistic tours (approaches, routes, ski descents, icefalls - at least 100m):

o of which 5 routes as leader or alternating in team grade II/3 or more,


o of which 5 falls as leader or alternating in team grade WI3 or more,
..."

Once again I quote the Alpiročnik, which is edited and used by the wider alpinist public. Sorry if you are higher authorities than the authors of the mentioned publication in the field of alpinism and I don't know you. If so, best to notify the authors that they are mistaken.

"The ascent must be done without protection from above."

I also don't claim she didn't climb it as first ascent. I claim she didn't climb it. Once again, see ethics and ascent evaluation.

You climb the route when as first in the rope team you lead the hardest pitch in the route. If there are two pitches of similar difficulty, the seconds can lead them alternately. If one pitch stands out, the first leads it, returns and the second climber leads as first in the rope team. Everything else is tension pulling.

First ascent climbing of the route has no connection to position in the rope team. Read the ethics and ascent evaluation in detail once more. This route is an alpinistic ascent and alpinistic evaluation rules apply.

In this case even the term "climbed" is not appropriate. See ethics and ascent evaluation:

http://alpirocnik.rasica.org/index.php/Eti%C4%8Dni_kodeks#Poro.C4.8Danje

"The ascent must be done without top-rope protection."

I have nothing against getting help for goals beyond your abilities, but just bragging that someone pulled you up the route on tension, that's not it.

@slavkoa
Did your better half climb also as first in the rope team? On the photos she's actually only as second in the rope team.

The "Current conditions" forum seems very useful to me, especially in this transition between snowy and summer conditions in the high mountains, as it gives me information on the basis of which I decide on the target and route.

I don't understand why some posts bother people, as they give first-hand info on current conditions on the path. If you want to go to Šmarna gora, these are key to the decision. Especially those about fresh beer shipments and deadly plant species on which to be extremely careful on the way.

mariusz1984_katowice,

Tominškova is not via ferrata route. It is steep route with some exposed parts. Those parts are well secured. Over its entire length, only small part is exposed and therefore there is mostly no need for technical protection. Just so you will not be disappointed.

However, in winter conditions it is not recommended.

The amount of precipitation will probably be low, but Tominškova face north, so the snow might last until next season. In that case pick some other route.

I do not want to judge you or assess your capabilities, use your own judgment, but in winter conditions, ascent from Krma is nothing special. It is quite popular, you certainly won't be alone. If you get lucky, you might even make it to the top.

I would recommend you to postpone your visit, this weekend will not be best for mountaineering much over 2000m. Sunday may be OK, but as mentioned before, pick something easy, like Debela Peč from Pokljuka. It's still beautiful and just over 2000m. Take ice axe and crampons.

If you would like to visit Julian Alps, follow the forum, you might find some company for winter ascent.

Good luck,

Rok

@ Sorok, comment on picture 5 "On return regret for wasted beautiful day".

In the intro you wrote "but curiosity, challenge or passion tempted me to take it via ferrata."

You made the decision to test your abilities and risk failure, as you write, you consciously chose the challenge. If you're not prepared for failure, I recommend choosing a hill near home and visiting it weekly always on the same path. That way you'll reduce possibilities for objective and subjective surprises.

On Saturday we walked well from Veliki Vrh to Veliko Kladivo, but the track might get blown over. At the top of Veliko Kladivo there's very little snow.