True, towards noon (around ten at the top) it was quite a bit softer than one would wish. Can't imagine how it was for the one who was lying there at one o'clock.
Just below the gully summit a thin frozen layer gave false sense of security - below hid quite unprocessed powder, so I dug such deep steps.
Question for those with more experience (leave aside that I ignored the fact the base was slowly starting to thaw at entrance): What would be smartest in this case?
-Enjoy the view and wait till evening to refreeze (enough fluids, clothes, light in backpack..)
-Descend and hope for the best?