morris - Recent messages

With dad and brother Tim we head to Krma. Foggy and cloudy weather greets us, but full of energy we start the trail anyway. The marked forest path takes us to Zgornje Krme pasture, where at the junction we turn right to Staničev dom. At the next junction we turn left to Kredarica. This way we bypassed Konjski preval, which will be the descent route. From Krma to Kredarica the path is well marked, directions at junctions clearly stated. No climbing here either, as there's not even one peg or cable all the way to Kredarica. Water is plentiful in pasture troughs. At Kredarica strong wind and fog await us. We won't wait for better weather, as it's been like this since early morning. Climbing to Mali Triglav we meet some English guys turning back due to strong wind on the ridge. And indeed we soon feel their reasons for descent. Wind accompanies us all the way to the top, where it calms. Pegs and cables on the path are impeccable, but watch the smoothed rocks that sometimes give no grip to boots. From the top we descend to Triglavska škrbina and turn to Dom Planika. Here it blows even stronger but safety aids are in exemplary condition throughout. Rock is also noticeably less smoothed, as most "attack" the summit from Kredarica. After short but extremely pleasant crawling on iron and rocks we arrive below Rjavec, from where to Planika is a short walk on scree and snowfields (ice axe and crampons not needed - flat). All climbing parts are behind us and we decide to run to Krma. Path leads through Konjski preval to the valley. Path is excellently marked all the way and even in fog with little attention we won't stray. We finish success with delicious pizza washed down with bitter beer.-Perfect day!!!

We could say two Sebastjans, otherwise Sebo and Morris are heading out again on an adventure in the Kamnik Alps.
5.7.2008 at 5am we arrive at Žagana peč. Two hours later already sipping tea at Kokrsko Saddle, since the weather is foggy and even slightly drizzling. The path up to here is normally passable. After deliberation we go to the bivouac below Grintovec and since the weather improves we continue to Mlinarsko Saddle. There is still some snow on the path, but winter gear isn't necessarily needed. Here the effort pays off, as it starts clearing nicely. We feel like the fog is retreating just for us. Follows a crossing of Dolgi hrbet secured with good cables and pegs. Protections are in good condition-flawless. The path is so scenic and interesting that you forget about fatigue here and just give in to magnificent views all around. From Dolgi hrbet we continue towards Skuta and detour to Štruca in between. Path to it isn't marked, but it's completely straightforward, just better avoid it in fog. Even to Skuta there actually are no climbing sections. Only ascent over scree and talus to the summit awaits. Winter gear no longer needed, no snow on the path anymore. At Skuta we refuel and continue to bivouac below Skuta. Here the path is secured and exposed but protections in good condition, so no problems. When we arrive at the bivouac, the administrator (for English) of this site (hribi.net) is in it, waiting for his buddy who's on Turska gora. Since his hands are cold I offer him my gas cooker to warm his cold hands with it. If you're reading this post by chance, we both greet you nicely. Since long path behind us we soon fall asleep. In the morning very early start towards Kranjska Rinka. Here we hit some fairly steep snowfields without precipitous outlets. I use ice axe and make steps, Sebo follows without winter gear. To the top the path is then normally passable. We continue to Križ. We go pathless along the ridge between Kranjska Rinka and Križ shortening and spicing up the path a bit (WARNING: Both well trained and climbing savvy, equipped with 20m auxiliary rope. On ridge difficulties can reach higher grades depending on passages chosen!!!). If you opt for this variant you'll gain maybe 5-10min or nothing, so we strongly advise against it for inexperienced "climbers"!!! At Križ we breakfast and descend to Savinjsko Saddle. Exposed climbing on excellent ferrata with flawless protections awaits. To me personally this path is one of the boldest in the range. Also extremely scenic (views to V. Baba, Mrzla gora, towards Jezersko, window,...). At Savinjsko Saddle, again pathless under walls traverse to entrance of Turski žleb (Goal to visit as many bold ferratas as possible). No climbing here, but caution needed crossing steep scree. No snow here anymore. Under Turski žleb we're greeted by hammer sounds driving pegs into white rock. Walls unbelievably full of climbers we'd gladly join. Ferrata in Turski žleb is dry, but some protections damaged requiring utmost caution! Falling rocks constant companion and without helmet tempting fate! At exit no snow, gully passable without winter gear. At top of gully towards Turska gora. Path dry and set up. Descend to Kotličeva and in 10min to snowfield under Brana (protections flawless to here). Crossing this snowfield without ice axe and crampons deadly dangerous, already claimed fatal toll this year! Cross extremely carefully and despite crampons still dig steps with ice axe. Safety always first! To Kamniško Saddle no issues (dry path, flawless protections). After break both looking forward to descent on excellent scree from Kamniško Saddle. Again excellent tour behind us and already mulling next variants. Hope path info useful for safe mountain visits, our story brightens a minute! GOOD LUCK!!!

In Vrata I was a bit grumpy as I started only at 8 a.m., which is not usual. Only the upward view cheered me, as I was going to Škrlatica for the first time. The steep forest path leads me to the open Podovško world under the mighty Stenar. I continue to bivouac 4 and Škrlatica is getting closer. Despite the very foggy morning it shows clearly and spurs the already forced pace to the top. Before the first rocks I overcome the painful scree, where I meet some people who say it's sunny, no wind at the top. Climbing is pleasant and interesting to the top, aids in exemplary condition. Strong wind and some raindrops accompany me, gone after a few minutes. Unfortunately no view, but very nice anyway. GOOD LUCK!!!

Crazy guys, hats off!!! Hope I'll stand on Blanc soon too!

Sorry about the pictures!

Geppo, sorry about the age of the description and from now on promise only completely fresh descriptions. But the avalanche under Brana is real, so thanks for updating conditions on that section. Probably the same with snowfield under Rinkas.
Panda, here's a bit more precise description. From Savinjsko Saddle continue down the marked path. Leave it about 100m lower from the turnoff to Mrzla gora, where terrain flattens a bit. Here turn towards entrance to Turski žleb (about 50m below entrance) and go straight to it.Of course crossing awkward scree isn't easy, but much easier than descending to marked path through Turski žleb and losing hard-won height.If you get lost I recommend following the sun rather than the moon! Safe travels!

Interesting debate, can't pass without adding my opinion. I fully agree that difficulty assessment can be very subjective. If we state difficulty with word ratings, there can be big deviations. For those skilled in climbing, the climbing parts will be much easier than for non-climbers. I think that in pathless descriptions we should state the difficulty of climbing sections numerically too. E.g.: Very demanding pathless with climbing sections up to 3rd difficulty degree. Also difficulty of orientation and fitness strenuousness (also approximate tour length). In descriptions it's always better to state a slightly harder rating than we experienced ourselves, since we write for a wide crowd of people. Good luck!

Yes really unbelievable in what conditions some people set out! It's not only what and how we have in the backpack! Preparations must start at home, best a day before departure. Essential is a thorough check of the weather map, which nowadays is available on the web, TV, radio,... Sometimes very nice weather is forecasted but it still tricks us up there! I recommend that besides the basic gear in the backpack ALWAYS have rain cover, spare dry clothes, windbreaker, rescue foil (about 2 euros), good to have also poncho or umbrella (of course we use this when lower and not on ridges, summits,...). If we have two dry PVC bags with us, we can help with soaked boots too (this is only emergency solution!!!): Take off footwear and soaked socks. Put on dry socks, pull bags over them and put on soaked boots or other footwear. This way PVC material will temporarily prevent socks from getting wet. Let me repeat that this is only emergency and temporary solution, as the foot won't breathe and will sweat more than before!
Lately I also use waterproof bags, available in better stocked mountaineering shops,... Get them in various sizes and they surely keep contents dry. Inside I always have two PVC bags, lighter (matches), tissues, battery, in emergency also tobacco with papers, money with documents and GSM phone, which can be crucial for survival. We must realize that sometimes it's better to find a safe spot on the mountain and even overnight, than descend in thunderstorm (slip, lightning,...). In pathless terrain fog can be very dangerous!!! Here too better wait for improvement of conditions, than get lost and wander aimlessly, perhaps unwittingly even to death. Some say it's not good to mull over such black scenarios!? I think we must always anticipate what can go wrong on a certain path and equip and prepare in advance for the worst conditions and scenarios. Such preparation for the tour can be crucial for successful end of the path. Don't let ourselves be swayed by debates saying: it was meant to be so, such is fate,... Our life is in our hands and we control it ourselves!!! Don't let thoughtlessness and unpreparedness take it from us!!! And SAFE journey to all hikers!

Does anyone perhaps know how it is with Via Amalia to Montaž? Are the protections ok?

I came from Jalovec over Kotovo sedlo. There is a branch for Mangart (5h), descended towards Koritnica and turned right towards the bivouac and up the eastern ridge to the top. Descended the normal route and at the branch for via italiana took it to the bivouac, then straight along via italiana back to the saddle and to the hut to sleep. Second day up the Slovenian route to the top then onwards to Vevnica, Ponca and to Tamar where I started the previous day at Jalovec.

On 7.8.2008 I crossed from Mangart to Middle Ponca. From Mangart to Bivacco Tarvisio no problems. From bivouac to exit of Via della Vita the cables are solid but sparse. Here the path is not overly exposed, but you need to climb here and there (2nd difficulty grade) without protections! To Vevnica summit then just scree and at top some scrambling (no climbing). Continuing to Strug. Here real troubles begin. Descending on otherwise solidly protected path, but for my taste much harder than Via Italiana on Mangart; extreme exposure, all covered with scree so no step is safe, friability so bad that e.g. Mrzla gora is compact compared to this, on path no pegs no pitons just cable attached with some expansion bolts which are far apart, even the most careful can only helplessly watch how "grenades" roll from under feet, since almost every step triggers a bunch of stones! Here without helmet, self-belay and climbing experience no business! When we reach lowest point between Vevnica and Strug it seems "horrors" end. But soon realize we stepped out of rain under drip. Enter scree-filled gully that ends in abyss few meters below us. On other side notice completely rotten cable we can't grasp or use for belay. And so on all way to Middle Ponca. Path marked with red spots barely visible, I oriented best by torn cables. But rock on this side less friable so climbing a bit easier. Of course climbing without protection, difficulties can reach 3rd grade on very exposed ledges. Rope belay would ease path a lot! And so to Rear Ponca where difficulties lessen a bit. To Middle Ponca path easier, just watch orientation. When on Middle Ponca we spot Slovenian marks we sigh relief as biggest troubles behind. I enjoy solitary hard paths and have climbing experience, yet wouldn't venture on this path if had prior info on condition. But path extremely scenic. For a while admire north face of Vevnica and Strug, then north face of Mojstrovke and Travnik. In beginning Jalovec shows, soon hidden by Vevnica. View extends to Martuljek mountains Prisank Razor... Path suitable for very experienced hikers with full gear and climbing experience. If fog catches between Strug and Poncas orientation practically impossible, below huge precipices. So be prepared for emergency bivy!!! Happy trails!!!

On 6th and 7th Aug 2008 I covered Mangart pretty much on all paths. Altogether it looks something like this: 1. Path along the east ridge over the nasty notch: All protections in perfect condition, no snow, but caution needed on extremely steep grassy slopes. In wet, forget this path. Because grass is very high in places and terrain slippery, risk of ankle sprain or loss of balance is high. Technically not too demanding, just in the nasty notch need to climb a bit along good protections (difficulty similar to climbing sections on the path over the threshold to Triglav). 2. Normal approach (via normale): Completely renewed protections. The path itself not much exposed and easiest approach to the summit. But be careful on heavily polished rocks, as the path is very frequented (similar to Mali Triglav-Triglav). 3. Italian path (Via italiana): Path is closed but can be climbed with some caution. About 10-15m of cable torn off somewhere in the upper part. Instead, double rope through pegs. Some brackets damaged too. But Via italiana suitable only for very experienced mountaineers capable of grade III climbing! Self-belay and helmet mandatory, and extreme caution!!! Of course for this path must be completely cool-headed to the depths, as it's one of the most exposed ferratas in the Julian Alps! 4. Slovenian path: Path in perfect condition. Watch out for falling rocks because heavily frequented. Helmet mandatory of course, recommend self-belay. Not for vertigo sufferers as exposed in places. But most recommended for average mountaineer.
Happy trails!!!

29.7.2008 ascended Prisank via Hanz route. Path undamaged, normally passable. But ice axe and crampons mandatory due to snowfield above upper waterfall. Must climb vertically ~2m on very hard snow to snowfield. Without axe extremely dangerous or impossible!!! Then cross snowfield, much faster/safer with crampons than axe alone. Above snowfield normal to summit. From top via Jubilee through last window (snow in window but no axe needed) to Razor. Pitons and cables perfect! Boldly on!

On 29.7.2008 I climbed Prisank via Hanz's path. The path is undamaged, so it's normally passable. But ice axe and crampons are mandatory due to the snowfield above the upper waterfall. Here you have to climb vertically about two meters on very hard snow onto the snowfield itself. Without ice axe this rise is extremely dangerous or even impossible!!! Then you have to cross the snowfield, which is much faster and safer with crampons than just with ice axe. Above the snowfield the path to the summit is again normally passable. From the summit I continued via the jubilee ladder to the last window (there's still snow in the window but ice axe not needed) and onwards towards Razor. Pegs and cables are in perfect condition!

I was on Jalovec on 7.8.2008. Ascent over Ozebnik is extremely dangerous due to constant falling rocks (mandatory helmet, ice axe, crampons!!!) and I strongly advise against it. Also over Mali kot ice axe comes in handy as before entering secured path still snow which can be bypassed via narrow gully. Around Goličica no problems, also no more snow at top of Ozebnik (if starting from Soča source no snowfield anymore). To summit then normal path. Also to Kotovo sedlo path usually passable (descent), further don't know as I turned towards Mangart.

Yesterday with a friend ascended through Turkish gully. Lots of climbers in cirque. Had crampons and ice axe but due to falling rocks preferred via ferrata. Continued to Kam. saddle. A bit above Kotliči still short but very dangerous snowfield with precipice end, so CAREFUL!!!

On 6.7.2008 the path to Brana from Kamniško sedlo is normally passable. Snow has melted. But continuation towards Turska gora over Kotliče still very dangerous. Just above Kotliči (in S wall of Brana) still very steep short snowfield. Some bypass it on upper edge, which is no less dangerous. Since snow fairly soft crampons don't grip well. Recommend digging deep steps (ice axe) and utmost caution!!! In case of slip no time to stop practically! Runout straight into abyss!!!