Bobaje - Recent messages

Then I don't know where interventions on this ridge come from.

With buddy in fall 2016 we repainted existing dots with revitalizing dose of red and with brush. Namely from top of Via della vita onwards along ridge to middle Ponca. If it bothers someone let it, for us useful in rescues in fog, dark or bad weather, as exactly then people easily get lost, right.

At 6 with Floj we set off from the car (we sneaked under Zacchi hut) towards the cirque under Vevnica, where the via ferrata starts, so-called Via della Vita. Weather perfect, just cool enough, with views for gods. Ropes and pegs in VDV are just fine, the ridge crossing doesn't pose problems either, except a couple of cables that some force ripped out of the rock or broke their steel soul, otherwise it was in much worse condition years ago. If you stray, just hurry to the Italian side and it shows you the continuation of one of the nicest and little visited paths in our area. After 4 hours and 45 minutes we're already having cappuccino in front of Zacchi hut, where there were countless adidas hikers swarming. Oh, and we found the spot where two mountaineers got struck last autumn, whom we rescued at night from the Ponca ridge. That's it.
Ciao, Jure

From Vršič to Vratce no problem, from Vratce to Slemen small crampons are helpful for a novice. I went without and it was ok.

Fell less than 15cm, the road is normally passable. On the gully to the saddle quite some snow is drifted, Grebenec is blown clean though. Currently lightly snowing here, and tomorrow off to work(

Best to try it: once to the hills with a map, second with SSKJ, and you'll see what's more accurate

In my whole career really no case of accident due to snapped rope. Everything else but that

Zebdi, my posts refer exclusively to ropes, anchors, banging on rocks; that's already another story.

Dynamic elasticity of rope goes up to 40%.
Arrest force on dyn. rope 9.8mm factor 2 and 80kg at:
2m=6130N
4m=6177N
8m=6192N
20m=6134N!
40=6134N!!
but that's how the world is, you serve facts and they crown you an egoist, I think...

I hope you don't believe a word I wrote. Yeah, sometimes I'm just rude. Hats off to some experts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kfZ85Ks170

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTC0dNG4Ygg

Jedriličar, watch the videos. Obviously even at Red Bull they have no clue!

Well, Jedriličar, you have no idea what you're talking about. That's exactly why you climb with dynamic rope, so that there is no spine breakage. I don't know what isn't clear to you. I have a feeling that for you climbing with dynamic rope is the same as climbing with a sling.
Somewhere I read that on this forum users are being misled; well, this post by Jedriličar is one such, but here thank God for ignorance.
I'll explain once more: the human body during a fall withstands an impact force of 15G or translated 13kN of force. At this force, injuries already occur that are still compatible with life. Of course, I'm talking about a fall onto the rope, without hitting rocks etc. In a fall onto dynamic rope (height doesn't matter at all) at Fp=2, the force on the body is between 6 and 8kN, well below the injury threshold. Whether the stance holds or not has nothing to do with it, because we're talking about ropes. A fall onto static rope at Fp=2 means a force on the body of 17kN!!! So you're definitely dead or at least seriously injured. That height doesn't matter is shown by the fact that these anomalies, i.e., forces, start appearing already at 1 meter height. Now the best thing, which I often see on via ferratas. Securing with an auxiliary cord. Example: Auxiliary cord (elasticity somewhere between dynamic and static) is about 0.5m long. The hiker, clipped in vertically with a karabiner, climbs from piton to the next piton 10m and falls just below the latter. Fp=fall height/rope length=10/0.5=20!!
So fall factor 20!!!! Nobody survives that. Now it will probably be clear to you why there are so many problems because of ferrata kits. Lately, quite a few systems have been withdrawn from sale. With such a factor, it's an art to make a system that reduces the deadly force to a survival force. Jedriličar, google and surf, you'll find everything.
That's enough. Oh, and this: dynamic rope has about 12% stretch, static 5%, auxiliary somewhere in between.
Be safe!
Lp Jure

Jedriličar, obviously you still have a lot to learn, so read some professional literature first, so I don't come off as smart. A proper rope normally holds such loads. I didn't talk about the stance, nor about bouncing off rocks during the fall, and we know how that ends.
"from simple reason because there wouldn't be enough rope in the system for fall amortization (50 m free rope means only 10 m left for fall amortization, if stretched at all) ..."
But I don't get that at all.

Twin and double rope are basically intended for climbing, i.e. always in pairs, hence smaller diameter. When using two ropes in climbing, a fall factor "2" can occur. Which means you climb 50m above the belay and fall 50m below belay without intermediate protection. That means you fell 100m on a 50m long rope. Height/length is Fp=2. Even a single rope over 9.5mm withstands that. Using only one rope from twin or double rope doesn't guarantee safety for falls at Fp=1. To put it simply, using only one rope from twin or double rope or thinner ropes is limited to belaying the second in the team or abseil, where the rope is more or less always tensioned, preventing long falls. Well if you ask me with such rope even Fp=0.5 fall is not recommended. If you like yourselves buy single over 9.5 and you'll be completely and above all safe with proper use. If anyone interested in fall factors type into google and will know what I'm talking about.
And one more: watch when buying ropes not to buy static rope which despite thickness is deadly dangerous for climbing.
That's it, hope understandable.
Lp Jure

Go once on some expedition to Andes or Himalayas, then talk about luxury, hygiene, food...