Begunjščica - Central Gully
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| Parkeljc23. 01. 2012 17:35:32 |
Someone recently wrote that "like" who still goes up the central on Begunjščica  Yesterday's rush is real proof that it's not true, we each climb according to our wishes, abilities, boldness and more. It's always been that way and it will remain so. Of course around the central there are plenty of others, mostly harder gullies, but currently some severely lack snow. Well, for the central I couldn't claim that, snow is mostly refrozen, partly windblown, but grips well under the wind crust. Yesterday real pleasure  , snow missing only just below the summit where rock scratches under crampons sometimes, but avoidable. Ridge on sunny side icy and in places bare. Descent via Šentanec first on wind crust, then a few tens of m on almost dry scree, lower plenty of snow. 
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| Edi223. 01. 2012 17:38:29 |
To all who were on Begunjščica.....did anyone throw trash into Lenuhova gully?
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| DarjaZaplotnik23. 01. 2012 21:19:12 |
Well yeah, weekday afternoon no crowd at all...
Lenuh's entry is still more nudist. As for snow of course.
lp d
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| JusAvgustin23. 01. 2012 23:06:28 |
but it can be done... right?
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| janez.novak24. 01. 2012 09:57:21 |
I haven't been there yet, but I have some questions:
is this gully also called Y, what's the steepness and difficulty (e.g. compared to the scree path to Grebenc in MM, to the top of Jalovec couloir). From Vrtača, under the summit the avalanche splits into two branches. This path goes through the left one and reaches the ridge a bit below the summit from the left. What's the difficulty of the upper part? From Zelenice hut first along the marked path - is it visible in snow? How about descent, is descent on the same path difficult! Thanks for answers.
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| robter24. 01. 2012 11:01:25 |
Janez Novak, a lot about gullies on Begunjščica is described under conditions on Begunjščica. Here a new thread is opened just on the central gully, which is not the Y gully.
The central one is to the right of it and also splits into two branches. More on the attached picture.
The route is not marked, because it's scree, in summer I don't know anyone who goes up here, only sometimes someone attempts descent via Šentanec, because you get down much faster than via the calvary.
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| snork24. 01. 2012 11:09:41 |
@robter
agree
just add that Y gully is a shade harder (steeper) than the central (aka main) gully!
both probably now "postmarked"!!!
Lp Klemen
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| Parkeljc24. 01. 2012 16:31:42 |
If I saw right, "Y" gully lacks quite some snow, especially in the upper part. Some started quite a while before me, but they struggled and reached the ridge when I was already descending. Didn't ask them about conditions 
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| JusAvgustin24. 01. 2012 16:40:44 |
In Y exactly one step (2m to scratch). Usually an icy strip or scree there... Left exit easier than right. Left leads exactly to ridge B, right to col where then half pitch of exposed walking to the ridge.
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| janez.novak24. 01. 2012 17:36:32 |
Thanks for the answers, janez
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| jedriličar24. 01. 2012 19:46:48 |
On Sunday we climbed Y via the right branch. There is one step ca 3m, shortly after the right branch split, however it can be bypassed without problem, a bit left up then traverse right and you're above the step. The gully is well snowed except in the summit part before exiting to the ridge, where the snow is soft and there's little of it so with the ice axe you scratch on grass or rock. Ridge almost without snow, so some caution is needed. Descent via Šentin ok, skiers like me sink to the knees, others easy. Hope the description is useful to you. Lp and safe...
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| janez.novak25. 01. 2012 08:55:51 |
Since I haven't walked these gullies yet, do you recommend for the start the Šentanec gully up and down - thanks for the answer.
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| snork25. 01. 2012 09:16:57 |
@janez.novak
it seems to me that if you're skilled in using crampons and ice axe you shouldn't have problems with ascent via central and descent via Šentanec... that's my opinion, decide yourself... best on the spot itself when you see how it looks!!!
Lp Klemen
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| robter25. 01. 2012 17:07:32 |
Hey I saw you from Triangel as you climbed up, and another two were in the gully. Congrats
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| RetardVeverca25. 01. 2012 17:16:30 |
Yeah another two were next to us at that time on top. With one of them being some old guy in velvety loose pants, hiking poles, frayed backpack couple decades old and when he passed me he asked why I have ice axe!!  Well in the middle of the gully one of his crampons came off, so he reached the top with just one. Hope at least he descended safely. Thanks
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| pikica125. 01. 2012 18:07:01 |
A veš kaj Veverca modern gear doesn't make a mountaineer yet. Why that old guy has frayed backpack you could guess, probably didn't fray it in the closet. Respect people you meet regardless of their gear. Next time chat a bit with him maybe it'll come in handy for you.
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| mayer25. 01. 2012 18:19:39 |
At the entrance to the Central Gully, a camera case was found,
contact at ZS
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| RetardVeverca25. 01. 2012 18:58:39 |
Sorry pikica1 but I don't know who you are, don't know what knowledge you have... but you weren't there in the gully when he passed by. Sure I believe he's experienced mountaineer, and walks the same path up for 40 years, but that doesn't mean it's normal to walk 40% slope in hard snow without ice axe. Have you ever been in such terrain? I'm not accusing him at all, even less that I don't respect him or wouldn't behave friendly and respectfully towards him. We even said a couple words I just made a remark on his inappropriate gear and general surprise why I carry ice axe with me, more as curiosity, not accusing him, cause of course it's not my business how people go to mountains. And please don't give me advice on when something will come in handy for me, cause you don't know the situation, me nor that guy. No hard feelings
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| pikica125. 01. 2012 20:03:04 |
Veverca your writing about his clothes bothered me. I didn't write anything about ice axe and crampons. Probably he enjoyed the ascent to Begunjščica, even though he had velvety pants on his ass and old backpack on his back. Giving advice to you also doesn't go, since you're that real mountaineer, know how to dress and climb gullies there are few like that.
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