Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents
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| JusAvgustin18. 01. 2010 16:45:12 |
Hello, I suggest opening a new thread on the above-mentioned topic. Here we could exchange experiences, advise on tours, describe conditions and debate about gear. We could also say something about literature and completed winter ascents.
Lp
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| rok8618. 01. 2010 17:31:13 |
Well, if it starts running like that, OK then it could be Alpine ascents! where harder approaches over 2 hours also count!
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| bridnk18. 01. 2010 19:07:40 |
if conditions don't improve , we won't have what to debate about 
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| JusAvgustin18. 01. 2010 19:43:44 |
going tomorrow to Zelenica to see what's happening, will report...
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| BT8819. 01. 2010 09:42:06 |
Does anyone know how it is in Vevnica from the Italian side.
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| JusAvgustin20. 01. 2010 09:20:00 |
were yesterday on Begunjščica, conditions in the gully solid, slabs causing some problems on passages, ice hard, doesn't crack, doesn't ring. Up combined route and down Šentanc. Tracks made, more caution on ridges (slabs crack!) and where snow not bonded to base. Otherwise super given conditions far from ideal.
Lp
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| JusAvgustin22. 01. 2010 00:40:07 |
Mlačca almost all formed, ice good quality, recommend to all ice nuts! then to naturals...
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| bridnk22. 01. 2010 09:57:48 |
great
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| spetovar22. 01. 2010 14:53:17 |
I have PETZL CHARLET - Laser Sonic.
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| JusAvgustin22. 01. 2010 15:35:18 |
lengths? various I assume. yeah if calculate at least 500 euros... right?
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| kastro22. 01. 2010 17:10:45 |
stay away from Czech crap...if buying then grivel, petzl, bd
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| JusAvgustin22. 01. 2010 23:17:55 |
been to mlačca again, everything climbable now, 8 climbable routes, worth training a bit before "serious" icefalls! right one makes most problems, today took a "souvenir" with me! 
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| JusAvgustin22. 01. 2010 23:33:37 |
interesting how some say Czech gear ain't good bla bla bla. don't mean just you. every screw needs cert and if bd 22 has it and raveltik 22 has it it's same shit... why pay 60 eur for screw if get for half?! continue discussion, clothes gear ok no save on shoes... but softshell real value 50 eur or less why sell us 250+? softshell pants etc etc karibu 3layer anorak 360 eur wtf crazy? not mention mammut... i buy various clothing brands all super satisfied (dont hike climb hills bit!) "main" brands pay name huge margin, warmpeace(czech) softshell pants same perform material as millet price diff. have czech axes raveltik super cup(perfect!) why petzl if save 60 eur per axe? "unrecognized" gear sucks big stereotype in our heads. down jackets... millet down ok from memory mountainhardware 50 eur(made china) why people crazy on brands? really believe expensive better?
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| JusAvgustin26. 01. 2010 15:04:19 |
on such foggy day where else but mlačca to poke around a bit again... thanks marko, robi and pavel for company...
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| pikec126. 01. 2010 15:42:38 |
I have Soft shell pants from Interspar- Great for 40 eur why give 200+ eur???
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| JusAvgustin26. 01. 2010 15:51:09 |
pikec1 dont get mad i also dont have pants for 200+ eur but on some things no saving right? shoes jacket eg...
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| turbo26. 01. 2010 16:39:21 |
Best gear is what you're satisfied with. Whether clothing shoes tools backpack etc no matter brand price.
If spent few 1000+ € satisfied with gear no hole in pocket fine.
If spent few 100+ € just as satisfied also not bad.
I roughly stick to saying dont have enough under thumb to buy cheap. Rather buy one less piece gear when old served then pay bit more for "my" brand. And wait for sale.
Anyway more important how often where we go mountains than how we look in mountains.
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| sebanakis26. 01. 2010 16:39:24 |
raveltik screws cool go nice in but have some for intermediate vertical stuff where screw lots use bd express cuz fastest in. well raveltik has quick too easier in ice.
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