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Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents

Dr.ejči13. 03. 2017 05:55:55

When I don't know, and usually don't ask, I just go check...with good rubber and lots of feeling, get to the Hut (intermediate dry sections help a lot)...during prep two more pass by...say they know nothing too, so go check...of course together...path thru forest to snowfield practically dry...at chute gear up and trudge to start...looks promising...figure someone ahead already "working"...jump covered but much steeper than last season...snow practically "concrete", delights us...but not long...between jumps no sinking, steps even made...traverse under bivvy looks frail/crumbly...bypass...go straight over jump, belay there cuz everything but "concrete"...don't go to Cankarjeva, but right traverse over saddle to Kramarca...to chimney ok, in it toolwork starts...and so on all jumps...well this year not easy...happy crawl to top...descent over "Petga" no issues, partly ass down...enjoyed for you too.

...concreting with powder snow avalanches...

(+13)

JusAvgustin13. 03. 2017 06:04:06

Bravo Andro! mežikanje

knap422719. 03. 2017 14:25:51

Today chased tail-end conditions in Prontarska, literally melting away. Upper third only somewhat better snow, same on descent to Hajnževo sedlo. On Veliki vrh light wind and views in pics.

Don't recommend till next cooldown.

Rgds, Matej

Already at the start it was flowing, nothing bothered it

Then two tunnels, with a nice refreshing stream along.

(+12)

JusAvgustin20. 03. 2017 06:16:53

It could start with: "Early hour, grave of Slovenian boys" but I'll stick just to the statement while the conditions are there, they must be exploited. Already back then when we went with Čokl up Y in Begunjščica I was eyeing towards VV and thinking, there must be good conditions... I recommended it to a friend on Wednesday, it was his first time in it. "Super route, super formed, thanks for recommending it to me". Small thing, no problem, hope the "beast" still holds for me. In between there was Thursday, when I quickly jumped into Lenuhova after work and thought hope you hold one more day, which at the end turned out to be two. Well for a pinch it was okay, otherwise Matej already mentioned it was flowing, but it was doable. There was no more wind crust, but there were wind slabs. Didn't break through too much, except on the approach, which in such temperatures is pure torment. Anyway we climbed a great route, which could be better formed, but whoever isn't satisfied with little... Important is that we both were satisfied and roped up again after I don't know how much time. About the pile of feces under the entry it's a waste to lose words. We have a more appropriate thread on hribi.net about that... jezen

Under the route a glove Engelbert Strauss remained, whoever finds it let him contact me, for the effort I'll give him the other one too...

(+10)

Viper4. 01. 2018 18:00:35

Already on the approach to Sinji slap it seemed to me from below that the upper part wasn't well formed but I still said I'll go check if it can be climbed.
Already the first part of the waterfall was well formed all the way to the ramp that leads right. On the ramp there's quite a lot of snow, so the ramp poses no problems. The upper part of the waterfall is already quite nicely formed too, considering that from afar it seemed to me there was no ice at all nasmeh

. Of course some ice is still missing, but the waterfall is still normally climbable. The exit part of the waterfall seemed to me maybe the most dangerous part, because there's no ice at all, and you have to get to the top through soft snow, even over rocks covered with moss.
I preferred to descend also right down the waterfall with 3 rappels on rope, because traversing the scree on the marked path seemed quite dangerous to me.

Exit couloir which holds no snow at all just before the end and requires rock climbing

(+16)

Viper14. 01. 2018 09:48:19

Yesterday up Bosova grapa to Brana with a friend. Conditions in the gully were excellent, only one jump was completely bare, but it can be bypassed on the right side.
In the gully the snow is hard like concrete due to avalanches that slid during the last thaw and completely hardened the ground.
The ridge to the top of Brana is also easily passable due to completely hard base.
We descended right back down the ridge and Bosova grapa because of fog, since we didn't want to search too much for descent on the marked path to Kamniško sedlo.
The road to Jermanca was completely dry and also quite potholed in 3 places.

Narrower section with excellent conditions.

(+22)

coffee18. 01. 2018 21:32:45

Today in Nemška grapa below Ojstrica. Conditions are very good. Mostly hard snow, just here and there bands of wind-blown, but they can easily be avoided. At the fork I chose the left variant, but the last jump was somewhat "weird": end ledge quite low, rocks mostly bare except suspicious thin ice on top (too bad forgot to take photo). After longer wandering back and forth, I rather went back down via Nemška.
Also, if someone plans from Klemenča towards the fork Škraja-Kopinškova, as soon as you get out of the forest under the rocks the whole slope is icy due to avalanches and last thaw. Otherwise the path, unfortunately, hasn't seen soles for a while.

Ridge below the west and north wall; Nemška starts far left at the bottom and goes into the dark poč

entry gully and continuation over the hidden ledge into the upper gully

from the top of the gully: longer exposed traverse that continues into the gully

towards the notch on the left side = left variant

(+15)

Viper18. 01. 2018 21:44:57

Bravo, nice nasmeh

(+6)

coffee18. 01. 2018 21:47:16

Thanks and same for Bosova.

(+3)

dprapr18. 01. 2018 22:39:38

Nice photos. I miss such ones. nasmeh

(+4)

grega_z_brega18. 01. 2018 23:07:28

Pornography on the internet...

(+6)

Bandzo19. 01. 2018 08:06:46

Super achievement bravo! But I'd ask the broader winter active mountaineering public: Is there any literature where mainly winter ascents in gullies are described?
I myself searched and browsed, but nothing more than from the forum and Habjan's winter guide (where gully classics are) I couldn't find. Especially I wondered about existence of such material when last winter from Planina Dolga njiva I saw traces of ascent in the gully on the NW side of Ježa (further from Veliki Zvoh towards Vrh korena). Nowhere before did I spot such an ascent.
Thanks for info/-s and safe steps to all further,
Ben

dprapr19. 01. 2018 08:14:10

Routes are described in climbing guides.
The above mentioned Nemška grapa, for example, in the climbing guide Logarska dolina, Matkov kot, Peči.

(+2)

coffee19. 01. 2018 09:00:34

Maybe Gregor Kresal's Winter Ascents (Sidarta) would suit you.
The good side is that it covers whole Slovenia, but because of that some more locally colored routes are omitted, more precise sketches only for the most famous or most difficult routes/waterfalls. I too observed gullies from Dolga Njiva (picture below), but you won't find those in Kresal's guide. But it does feature for example the Nemška and Bosova above and all from Begunjščica etc.

(+2)

Mako19. 01. 2018 10:05:16

coffee
Instead of the exit jump in Nemška, you could also choose the right exit: traverse right and over a smaller edge into the narrower gully and up it to the wall edge.

(+1)

coffee19. 01. 2018 10:09:57

You're right. I looked at the right variant a bit more at home later. Under the left exit I did traverse right, but I wasn't sure exactly where the right one is, so I rather backed off.

Bandzo19. 01. 2018 10:13:21

Thanks for the info!
Yes I also looked at Kresal and saw that (logically) there's more emphasis on these winter classics.
If a person wants to, they always find a way, seems that applies also to the 1001st gully in our 1001 mountains that we have in our beautiful Slovenia nasmeh

coffee: That's the gully right nasmeh

Next to it there was another one climbed, which (from below) looked very steep and narrow towards the top.

Successful and safe further,
LP
Ben

(+1)

coffee19. 01. 2018 10:17:02

Bandzo: one variant opens up also when you go along the marked path towards Krvavec to the first rocks and a bit behind them up left. By this I think you exit a bit below Zvoh.

(+2)

Viper1. 03. 2018 08:07:08

The waterfall in Pekel gorge is formed, but the ice is quite watery and soft.
All 4 waterfalls in hell are well formed, maybe the first one the worst.
No pics, because I climbed it just as it got dark.
Climbed with a member from AO Cerkno, pure coincidence. At least I wasn't alone.

I only have this photo from the first waterfall. Higher up it was already dark. And this I took when I was still without gear under the waterfall. Of course I went back to the car for the gear and went for it.

(+6)

Viper2. 03. 2018 20:46:25

Yesterday climbed Tominčev slap in Podljubelj, which is quite nicely formed.
Today I also climbed Grapa presenečenj in Kokra, which is nicely formed. The last steepest part in Grapa presenečenj is also nicely formed. In between in the gully there's some fallen trees that hinder progress a bit.
Climbed Grapa presenečenj just until complete darkness. The last steep part already with headlamp on helmet nasmeh