Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents
|
| JusAvgustin22. 02. 2010 20:04:20 |
In summer just a small waterfall, now Lucifer
In 1979 Lucifer was the first frozen icefall climbed here - Far from the hardest, but the ascent over it is a thrilling experience
Dance in steep frozen wall. Photo: Milan Sovič. Years ago, in midwinter, I drove from Mojstrana to Gozd - Martuljek. About two km before the village on the other side of the river at the foot of steep wooded slopes I spotted a scary ice mass. Shining ice thrust up the steep rock wall and higher vanished in the gully among trees. Yes, Lucifer, true legend for ice climbing lovers. In winter many waterfalls freeze and their ice shell attracts alpinists, Lucifer deserves attention among ice curtains. Not the hardest, but looks scary from afar. In summer just a modest trickle, a modest stream over steep wall, locals call the area Mokre peči.
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin23. 02. 2010 18:15:57 |
If no serious cooling comes, it will fall down... then climbing Lucifer is deadly dangerous. You probably know that yourself.
Yesterday there were ideal conditions, -1 degree, ice like butter when you take it from the fridge, fog, snow, wind - in short, Scottish conditions... The icefall stands complete, the right branch also showed fun climbing. From the candle onwards (4th pitch) the ice is already thin, full of holes and I fear these are its last breaths. But it is definitely an ascent that I will remember for life...
Notorious Lucifer, respect...
We climbed it in three hours, three of us.
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin8. 03. 2010 21:50:40 |
Icefalls under Prisojnik, except Lambada, are still standing. Ice is mostly good, here and there hollow and brittle. Almost all icefalls covered with snow layer that needs to be removed. Candle at the top of right icefall cracked widthwise but still climbable. Left icefall lots of snow and ice hard as stone, middle has good conditions, lots of different ice combinations, central is a treat though candle at end is overhanging. For all descents we used rappel technique, anchors in very good condition. Temp today -11, yesterday -5. Climbed Pablo, Anže, Robi, Matej, Juš. Thanks for company and two amazing days under Prisankam!
|
|
|
|
| mariborcan9. 03. 2010 13:13:56 |
Also in Maltatal still climbable, not everywhere (sun). Specifically on Sunday (7.3.) we tried Superfeucht and Strannerbach, conditions ok. At Strannerbach descent is tricky, about 10x rappel. Met quite a few Slovenians.
 1
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin9. 03. 2010 13:37:36 |
super, gotta try soon..., if not this season then next.
|
|
|
|
| mariborcan16. 03. 2010 12:15:31 |
Icefalls in Maltatal still OK, tested just this Sunday (14.3.). Those not too sunny, so left side of valley. Rechter Dreifaltigkeitsfall, Aluhol, Strannerbach, Kathedrale,... Wintasun already fully sunny.
More info here and here. Regards
|
|
|
|
| bridnk16. 03. 2010 14:32:05 |
Maltatal really mecca for ice climbing Granite handles ice totally different than limestone..... 
|
|
|
|
| bridnk16. 03. 2010 14:35:53 |
On Sunday climbed Poševni slap (Lukežev Led), started from ledge. Conditions mixed, days are numbered,....
 1 2
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin16. 03. 2010 14:40:00 |
time for gullies is coming..., ice is leaving...
|
|
|
|
| Santi16. 03. 2010 18:05:23 |
|
|
|
|
| mariborcan16. 03. 2010 21:47:30 |
That's right! Gullies, skiing, dry tooling...biggest problem will be not knowing what to do on a nice day... 
|
|
|
|
| Santi16. 03. 2010 23:17:14 |
Time for... drytooling 
 1
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin17. 03. 2010 08:38:37 |
time for Hudičev žleb... when there'll be no more avalanche danger...
|
|
|
|
| BT8817. 03. 2010 09:02:56 |
Geolog79, how long does Hudičev žleb take approx.? Descent, as far as I know, not possible down ascent route or very difficult.
|
|
|
|
| Santi17. 03. 2010 09:13:29 |
Gully ca 3-4 hours, reach it via Hanzova or one of the falls. Descent easiest on ascent route esp if well iced, or continue to Prisank summit but first to Hudičev pillar, branch or traverse harder to find, good pitch below gully top, better not miss it, diff +1 grade, so full day tour...
 1
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin17. 03. 2010 11:50:50 |
Yes, last jump approx 10m rock slab smooth as devil so only cams work, then traverse up to Hudičev pillar, descend from there to Hanzova path another 1.5-2 hrs to Prisank top. Variant ok when belays on Hanzova visible otherwise diff much higher... Descend ridge to Vršič. Gully when avalanches over i.e. Apr May. Start early morning, easiest via Hanzova traversing Lambado... Gully visible from there. Hardest start and gully to pillar transition. If rappel back down gully belays (bolts) there. Or so they say.
Santi when do we go?
|
|
|
|
| Santi17. 03. 2010 12:27:41 |
As soon as conditions allow...
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin28. 03. 2010 16:29:02 |
Practice on MM
Conditions super, except upper part already sun-softened, shaded rest has "real" sound when axe swings...
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.