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Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents

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kris29. 03. 2010 17:15:18
wonderful pics
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JusAvgustin27. 05. 2010 06:36:36
Velika Mrtuljška Ponca 2602 m.a.s.l.

Yesterday we planned to go to VMP, start from 3rd hairpin of Vršič road at 5:50 to Krnica hut, along the torrent bed towards Špik. Continued along the torrent, at the fork of two gullies we turned right. Bypassed the rock jump on the right, over scree and snow arrived under S. wall of Škrlatica and its screes. Traversed the scree to bivouac I. Short break in the bivouac, then onwards to the end of the big bottom. Since it was our first time up there, instead of going left into the gully past the snow avalanches and then along the ridge through the chimney to VMP, we arrived at the ridge between Oltar and VMP. Time ran out, had to head back... One more experience that bonded us, without a bitter aftertaste we slogged to the end of Velika Dnine and headed towards Krnica. The tour is long, extremely demanding, snow starts already in the gully 20 minutes from the Krnica hut. Snow is unpleasant, strong thaw, recommend rope 1x60m, crampons, ice axe/s, gaiters... In short, up there it's still harsh winter. But we were definitely in the nicest corner of our mountains. Prisank was laughing behind us, ahead of us towered Rakova Špica, Rigljica, Škrlatica, Žaga, Rokavi, Oltar, MMP, VMP... inconceivable, priceless. Thanks for the good company!
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Beauty2
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Here PP also goes4
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Mojstrovke7
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Jump9
This is how we bypassed it10
View towards Krnica11
Bivouac I.12
A little closer13
Velika Dnina14
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On the ridge between Oltar and VMP17
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viharnik27. 05. 2010 21:11:48
Congratulations for the wonderful tour and although not on Visoka Ponca, the story and beauties in the mountains always count the most.
The turnoff for Vis. Ponca from bivak I in Dnine is less than half an hour uphill, where a narrow scree passage appears from the left (rocks of red limestone). Above two variants:1. right along the scree ledge to upper ramp in main ridge, where at the top we turn left and climb second difficulty grade in very crumbly, collapsed! to summit
2. Directly up gully entrance to summit - winter variant. Descent also at upper chimney - prominent tower (50m before it) via system of ledges and gullies - steep 1-2 grade climbing, shoe smearing!, to scree on south scree field above Dnine.
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JusAvgustin27. 05. 2010 21:28:50
, thanks viharnik for the congrats, maybe we can "do something" sometime somewhere, and the weather deteriorated too, so on the ridge to the Martuljek side visibility was zero. Next time it'll be better, definitely the route will take me back there this year as it's incomprehensibly beautiful and wild...

Best, Juš]]>
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JusAvgustin29. 10. 2010 17:47:52
of course, if conditions are rightnasmeh]]>
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Primož7629. 10. 2010 21:03:40
I'm going to check it tomorrow.
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viharnik29. 10. 2010 21:14:31
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JusAvgustin29. 10. 2010 21:31:13
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JusAvgustin25. 11. 2010 21:43:09

tour worth min 2 beers!eek]]>
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JusAvgustin12. 12. 2010 22:17:25
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tol12. 12. 2010 23:27:11
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JusAvgustin12. 12. 2010 23:33:14
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aljazek13. 12. 2010 08:57:29
Well, then I'll add a comment too: Grintovec gullies were also in super condition on Saturday. The gully through Jame was almost fully iced up :-)
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sla13. 12. 2010 09:01:57
Yeah, geolog, then at least write which gullies you piked.
I skied through the central one in Begunščici yesterday as the last one, crampons I rather left nicely below.

And some rescue was in the area of the right exit of Šentanc. Does anyone know what happened?
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JusAvgustin13. 12. 2010 09:16:58
on fri(afternoon) and sat(morning) I down-piked central, but according to reports and weather the gullies on S side are ready. In Y even right exit to ridge is iced over... This wind has "mirrored" everything snow is bonded to base, don't know how much will fall up there today. Anyway need to repeat those ends this week...
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JusAvgustin13. 12. 2010 09:26:18
but already skied it on Friday too, even though it was completely icy up topnasmeh
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sla13. 12. 2010 09:29:41
When I skied to the car in the dark, another guy emerged from the dark behind me. He said he ascended Vrtača via a completely icy gully, skied down the south gully which had proper powder.

Apparently they skied Y too.
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Bobaje14. 12. 2010 16:46:57
Today with Flo climbed Right Falls in Tamar. The ascent was marked by cold that mercilessly burned the fingers, plus we got properly showered - sometimes some things just don't work!!nasmeh)
More detailed report at:
http://www.ice-climbing.net/razmere/index1.php
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JusAvgustin14. 12. 2010 21:08:24
so is Tamar ready?nasmeh
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Bobaje14. 12. 2010 21:15:11
Not the best, but enough for the bravenasmeh
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