Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents
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| JusAvgustin23. 01. 2011 22:09:25 |
Here fresh... just from Storžič, via Kramarjeva, upper pitch dry, middle bivouac toilet, some parts wind slab, exit pitch iced! Up in 2h, descent via Peto žrelo... by car almost to hut, or to hut if 4x4 or chains. Predecessors probably turned due to conditions, on Smrečica turnaround and no degrees left. Now there are... 
Juš
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| rozka24. 01. 2011 10:06:51 |
Hi Juš, insomnia hitting you  , hehe, yeah super you did this night "hike". Congrats 
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| JusAvgustin24. 01. 2011 15:13:46 |
Just back with Jože from Teranova smer in Dolgi hrb, except toilet in gully beautifully formed whole! Only to note exit traverse  , route richly equipped, descended to ledine thru gully back to car...
Juš &Jože
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| BT8825. 01. 2011 13:17:04 |
Waaaaw nice tour how long does it take.
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| JusAvgustin25. 01. 2011 14:41:29 |
all together from car to car good 4 hours. We two climbed alone and didn't wait at belays. If you're fit you do it in two hours. Descent also less than hour from icefields through gully... Approach to base of wall 45 min, climbing two hours, then descent. On belaying first three pitches recommended, then gully. Exit traverse has bolts and two pegs at end, but that depends on psyche again. Close eyes and go.
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| BT8826. 01. 2011 08:47:46 |
Thanks looks like everything fits for you and you're fast. Thanks for info and good luck.
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| JusAvgustin27. 01. 2011 17:47:23 |
today santi, joža and I went originally for the hidden gully in robicju (E wall), in the end it turned out we climbed a "mess" of mixed (cuz no enough snow of course!!!) but all was fun! Descended by rappels, did exactly 5 abseils, and one looped traverse to right. Otherwise tried to reach robicja ridge, but got stuck no more snow ahead and vertical wall pitch. And didn't have enough pegs... With santi never boring, regularly spices up the tour which ends up as solid climb...
Thanks both...
maybe even first ascent, who knows, solid mix III.
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| JusAvgustin27. 01. 2011 21:16:14 |
Gully climbing due to small amount of snow quickly turns into mix, otherwise meniscus fully iced (also first jump), other is hidden gully which is dry in parts  , SE wall is beautiful! checked...
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| skrajnik29. 01. 2011 12:32:53 |
I'm interested where to get some info (description, sketch) on winter routes?
Net or some book?
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| aljazek29. 01. 2011 18:54:41 |
bible not quite I'd say...cuz quite lacking in some things...can serve as list of all options, then google for better route descriptions :-)
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| JusAvgustin30. 01. 2011 09:04:54 |
yeah, say that "partly" I agree with aljazek too ... aljazek what do you say to climbing guide from 1970 Climbing ascents Julian Alps?, or older kresal guide from 1995... Just need to dig a bit and find sketch, route desc, detailed sketch, pics... Otherwise I usually do before such tour (unknown) go there photo wall detailed and study at home... Too complicated? Maybe yes, but sure is sure!
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| Primož7630. 01. 2011 14:32:54 |
Yesterday Celjska route in Mali Rinki, today Wisiakova in Planjava. Pic shows just line of lower part Celjska route. Was really extreme cold, mainly due strong wind.
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| aljazek31. 01. 2011 09:42:37 |
Well we wanted on Saturday Wisiakovo + Grapa behind Rdeči Kup, but trudging tired us quite a bit, and no visibility either, so we turned into wrong gully once. In the end we climbed Wisiakovo and 1/3 - 1/2 GzRK, but it wasn't exactly the nicest climbing pleasure, mainly trudging :-)
@JA: hehe, well I for example from Bosova shot Planjava and Wisiakovo gully, then at home drew the route and topo is done :-) then due to cloud couldn't see 20m, sketch wasn't needed either
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| PrimožL31. 01. 2011 11:05:51 |
I saw yesterday where you turned left yeah. Everything nicely ends in Wisiakovi after first 30 meters.
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| JusAvgustin31. 01. 2011 16:49:30 |
Man, the conditions are totally crazy! , really it can happen that there are quite a few ropes in the route. If you go during the week it's of course different...
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| aljazek31. 01. 2011 19:10:37 |
Has anyone been in the Tschadova route on Ojstrica these days?
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| JusAvgustin2. 02. 2011 14:19:28 |
Gully over the caves is quite nicely formed. With Matej we soloed it today early in the morning. When descending over the roof we saw two in the gully but in my opinion the snow was already pretty much ruined! Otherwise to the gully nice mini mix!
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| PrimožL9. 02. 2011 12:11:32 |
Yesterday past Kamniška jama and on along hunters path to saddle below Staničev vrh, then climbed one route in south wall (named Mrzlo postaja), rappel under wall and descent via Repov kot to valley. It was suuuper, warm. So not totally off topic  For descent via gully below Staničev vrh crampons and ice axe mandatory, upper part snow is completely hard!!!
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| JusAvgustin14. 02. 2011 10:40:52 |
WARNING! Exit candle of right icefall under Prisank is broken!
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