Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents
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| 1mitjas23. 12. 2011 16:34:02 |
Palenk and highway climbed today in Logarska, quite poor, that ears aren't quite there. Rest looks like it needs couple more days.
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| JusAvgustin24. 12. 2011 14:33:51 |
Today Matej and I went to Tamar to check how waterfalls are formed, given some posts on topic... Strong inversion and thaw caused Sveča to flow water cascade, Fall above cave is turquoise blue, rarity is big sadness, central too. After short think and assess we climbed Rastlinca 4, 120m WI 75-90
By our assess still quite lacking to be ok, at least 14 days frost, cuz today morning in Tamar only -8, when returning 0. Below nice for picking, middle less, top kinda flows and ice hollow...
Juš and Matej!
P.S. under Prisanka also sadness, but in front head can poke something!
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| Bobaje24. 12. 2011 23:38:35 |
Bravo Juš!
Gotta go Monday, if no flood. Devil at home has so much work... Merry holidays, see ya!
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| knap422725. 12. 2011 07:26:04 |
Looks like this, but only from below, cuz camera stayed in backpack . Screws longer than 13 cm out of question, even those often ''squeak''.
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| DarjaZaplotnik25. 12. 2011 18:26:03 |
A few words on conditions above Zelenica already written by @Bojan. Just adding that entry to Lenuhova is undermined and only a bit messed up. Right entry looks similar. Higher up Western gully was ok, as well as its right exit variants. Central and Y ok, well, predecessor wrote that. Then we went under Praznična route, entry still ok, further on though too little snow.
cheers d
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| JusAvgustin25. 12. 2011 19:08:41 |
doesn't matter, main thing frozen grasses...
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| DarjaZaplotnik25. 12. 2011 21:02:45 |
Hehe, I enjoy them too if there's nothing else...
Otherwise @Jus, Teranova is also done  if you're accidentally interested.
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| JusAvgustin26. 12. 2011 15:53:22 |
With Klemen we drive to Ljubelj, wait for light and meanwhile ponder what to climb. Since we both have enough stamps of Lenuhova and similar stuff for a while we head into the sector above Vrtača station and pull the spur between Trolkot and Praznična direct. Well, it all stops at the jump (in the lower half of the wall), which of course wasn't done and soon we have enough of ice axes getting stuck and crampons scratching rock... So after two failed attempts (left technically harder than right, which is longer though) we descend the ascent route. Conditions of course lousy. Still missing a meter of snow and two weeks of frost. Anyway we went fairly buzzed down to the valley for two beers. Belaying, as we know, is problematic in Begunjščica, though surprisingly we could belay with butterflies and specials. Prusik left in the jump, but surely no one is that crazy to go hack it in such conditions...
Pipi team
P.S. Darja, Teranovo tomorrow...
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| Bojan_A26. 12. 2011 16:09:17 |
Anyway what's Teranova route graded?
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| snork26. 12. 2011 16:13:50 |
one short jump a bit steep otherwise 45-60 deg
and traverse at exit can be annoying sometimes
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| JusAvgustin26. 12. 2011 17:00:54 |
teranova III/3, 80, 45-60  350m your black gold tomorrow dude...
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| DarjaZaplotnik26. 12. 2011 18:00:34 |
Oh fine Juš, enjoy!!!
Would add to comment on Teranova difficulty just this. Those steps aren't exactly innocent, they are proper steps. And one shorter jump neither. With a bit of bad luck you find some "soft" and collapsing stuff in it.
On climbing scene we mostly know how things are handled. And fully understand buzzed youngsters. But, on mountaineering portal let's write about serious stuff...seriously. Ok? So no misunderstandings later.
cheers d
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| snork26. 12. 2011 18:42:26 |
if Teranova is well formed there really shouldn't be a problem
but it seems to me that the "topic" gullies, waterfalls, alpinistic ascents is meant for climbers, but anyone can read it easily......chew YES swallow NO
Darja no hard feelings
Regards Klemen
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| JusAvgustin27. 12. 2011 14:30:00 |
When Karničar wrote on FB that Teranova is ready, "n-th" number of ropes rushed into the route, everyone wanted to climb this winter classic of KSA, especially because it's the only route here that's "perfectly formed". So today we also headed there. Already at 5:30 we arrived at the P by the cargo cable car and there we met only! ONE car that parked a minute before us... Lucky coincidence. We'll be alone in the route, and above all FIRST (saved from snow bombardment and "icicles" of ice. Yay! Under the route at 6:30, waiting for sunrise, with headlamp I start pulling the pitch to the first gully and belay. I bring up both and soon we're in the gully, watching sunrise, sky is clear, no cloud. No frost. Full of hope I head on and yes, conditions are fantastic, just wind crust, styrofoam call it what you want... whole route is perfectly formed, but due to little snow steeper and constant angle. Only in the gully before exit it flattens, but only to the next jump, which in "normal" conditions is a few meters, this time again joy in vertical pitch... Soon in the headwall of the route, under DH wall and only traverse left, which is highway.
Strongly recommend the route, it's really DONE, all set! For you in Teran Pipi team! Pics coming! Oh, thanks Matej and Borut for company and you Pipi of course too! You are one silly pig!
Ascent of Teranova route in Dolgi Hrbet is alpinistic ascent and must be taken as such...
Regards
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| snork27. 12. 2011 15:29:53 |
bravo P.N.
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| JusAvgustin29. 12. 2011 13:36:12 |
Today for relax in Lenuhovo relax, as Darja already wrote the entry jump is completely icy, then steps. Gully as whole perfectly stepped (thanks!) only exit from gully to ridge a bit annoying (powder, grass, anyway more unconsolidated!) For beginner strongly recommend belay over first jump (this time I managed to remove the peg, so no gear left!) Otherwise pure pleasure climbing there above Šentanc. From top of BV we descended west gully, but only to middle of avalanche, then took unnamed route to Begunjščica ridge (about 50m from left! exit of Y. Bottom conditions worse, top hard and nice ice. Gully ends a bit below ridge, to which nice traverse and even nicer mix leads. Conditions forming, yesterday Kozorogova climbed. On big summit we were alone, central one big party spot of course max enjoyed and thanks again for steps! When returning (around 11h) two were under Lenuhovo, so...
And some pics
Juš&Iztok
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