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Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents

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DarjaZaplotnik30. 12. 2011 22:27:08
I thought we were always a bit earlier. Hehe, now I see how wrong I was...jezik

Juš, pics are good, descriptions too. Got maybe another pic where Saša Kamenjev's ice climb is up there?
Thx in advance.nasmeh

ps: snork, where's that grudge?mežikanje
One has to expect different comments, especially if writing in a bit more serious, maybe even sharper tone. mežikanjenasmehmežikanje

But I'll explain some historical "details" re Teranova.
Route first repeated in winter conditions early 90s (hope I'm not wrong). But I remember it helped many to categorization then. For long it was one of harder snow routes here. Numerous repeats of course took its charm over time. Until this snow beauty was degraded almost to steeper gully level. It doesn't deserve that at all, so your description annoyed me a bit. Hope you don't mind. nasmeh
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JusAvgustin31. 12. 2011 09:44:03
Saša Kamenjev memorial route IV+/5+, M5/M6
Direction1
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rant1. 01. 2012 11:23:12
Current conditions Planjava, Brana.
1
2
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JusAvgustin2. 01. 2012 18:03:32
Jančeva route in Begunjščica V/IV, M 550m
Today we climbed this beautiful route that stretches across the entire BV wall. The route is not done, but we climbed it entirely with ice technique. We climbed for 6 hours. All jumps were icy, so we belayed from below too; up the gully we stamped. If there weren't such tough jumps in the route, Jančeva would be the most popular route in BV. But it's a solid route that winds nicely. It starts over smooth slabs leading to the gully, from there steeply up the chimney leading to a small snowfield. There we set belay. Followed the hardest jump leading over boulder to gully. Over the third jump we did a bypass to the right through scree. Higher in the gully another jump requiring belay; that one demanding too. We exited the route to the ridge to BV summit, from there down Šentanec to civilization for beer. In the morning we met three lads wanting to climb Lenuhova; right now GRS action ongoing.
Route stamped, peg left in route...
Juš, Klemen, Mihanasmeh tržiški pa radolški crewmežikanje
Against the direction1
First jump2
Second jump3
:), sunbeam?4
Klemen5
Pitonning6
Route detail7
Steep vertical8
In the gully9
Fourth drop10
No views at all11
12
Exit from the route13
The pegs must be there14
Almost on the ridge and at the feast...15
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Bojan_A2. 01. 2012 20:23:44
Bravo!
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urbanzunter5. 01. 2012 21:55:43
Today in Begunjščica very bad conditions for climbing couloirs. Foggy, little snow which in some places is totally windblown, elsewhere blown up into big cornices. Especially very little of it. Skiing possible to middle chairlift station at Zelenica or a bit lower, if your skis don't pity you.
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JusAvgustin6. 01. 2012 08:35:55
so what if it's done? mežikanje pretty bad huh...
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urbanzunter6. 01. 2012 10:46:54
What if it's done? Am I not the substitute? nasmeh
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knap42276. 01. 2012 11:05:49
Routes - couloirs he meant, you easily believe him. If you got a pic of Kozorogova you're winner altogether.
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turbo6. 01. 2012 11:20:05
Nah, Juš was asking if there are mushrooms.
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urbanzunter6. 01. 2012 15:30:37
then he well figured out it's pretty bad.
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JusAvgustin6. 01. 2012 16:12:21
and in kozorog are mushrooms? will maybe move this crazy to next day, otherwise Knap and I american flying squirrels...eek
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tol6. 01. 2012 17:18:43
It will snow north and south of us. zmeden
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Jaša9. 01. 2012 19:38:18
Descent gully in Begunjska Vrtača... better to leave it alone for a few more days...
Most of it is trampled, the upper part is still waiting (approx. half-meter snow step)1
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JusAvgustin9. 01. 2012 20:38:47
very useful photo, thankswink
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matejn10. 01. 2012 15:16:04
Let me write a bit, even though I didn't climbsad look.
Today my friend and I were firmly determined to climb the Central Falls in Tamar. On our last visit five days ago, I somehow got the impression that it could be climbed with a bit of zigzagging through the falls without major problems. The curtain was really thick, but far right there was a solid ice pillar allowing passage over the vertical, then left traverse into easier terrain to the top. Ice was satisfactory and nothing flowing. That was last timesmile
Today though... horror. Water flowing almost in streams wherever you looked. The pillar more like half-ice formation. In short with long noses we headed home.
About other falls in Tamar, it's telling if I say Central is still closest to what a formed falls should be.
Given proper winter arrival receding again to sometime after 20.1, if at all, seriously doubting what can be climbed in Tamar this season.
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JusAvgustin10. 01. 2012 15:18:30
what about Rastlinca, usually climbable firstconfused or it already was... big grin 24.12.2011
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matejn10. 01. 2012 17:25:45
Yes, Rastlinca is quite under snow, and quite a bit of rock visible under the ice. I'd dare say maybe a bit better condition than 5 days ago. Didn't climb it though. First pitch of Central was disappointment enough.
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JusAvgustin10. 01. 2012 17:33:02
thankssmile
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snork11. 01. 2012 11:33:47
today I went to check Begunščica (between Povab and Jesen)
bit of a pitysad look
Kozorogova looks great from afar, on touch dismalsad look
Jesenska most recommendable
Regards Klemen
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