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Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents

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Mali Gobar12. 01. 2012 17:19:58
What are you doing then?! Brag in the mountain fighting, not this! I also have a proverb but I don't remember it! I think enough of this scratching now, better say something about climbing, right? To test new drill!
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SPIDER12. 01. 2012 19:33:05
This would be quite fitting for this forum:"Mind your own business and until the end of life you won't run out of work"
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anka 12. 01. 2012 20:47:05
Thumbs up for the last one. But it's copyrighted and belongs to - you won't believe - the Pensioner
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JusAvgustin12. 01. 2012 21:41:22
hey what's been done?eek
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matejn12. 01. 2012 22:35:51
I'll tell ya.
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green joga12. 01. 2012 23:25:47
Me too, interested if sth's done somewhere. So Matejn just report tomorrownasmeh
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JusAvgustin13. 01. 2012 19:07:12
today Anže and me went down directly into begunšc, conditions not optimal, first jump at belay completely dry gotta scratch a bit, second jump so-so, third such that when goin in from gully gotta go sideways, rest stomped but damn narrow. descended central, were alone, just sunset...
J&A

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turbo13. 01. 2012 19:31:47
For me, who doesn't quite master Slovene well, would read it's optimal for foot downclimb. What about rappelling would it go or too much rub?
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JusAvgustin13. 01. 2012 19:46:04
yeah could abseil where gully ends just one pitch length jam where anchors don't fit, go over jump bit right n you're on central anyway...mežikanje
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turbo13. 01. 2012 20:04:32
If it's like that not quite for me. Prefer bit different more easy I'd say zavijanje z očmi
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JusAvgustin13. 01. 2012 20:24:54
would post pics but can't find cable...jezen
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snork13. 01. 2012 20:41:21
bravo J&Avelik nasmeh
bit excited but can't go cuz sick
Regards Klemen
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zmaJ13. 01. 2012 20:43:44
hey highlanders forum takeover cool
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JusAvgustin13. 01. 2012 22:50:26
Pics are unfortunately mobilevelik nasmeh
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JusAvgustin14. 01. 2012 17:30:20
Today Matej and I were out looking for conditions again. This time we hit BINGO. For warmup we climbed Sinji slap II/3, WI 85/60 200m, for dessert we nailed Nemško IV/3 in long ridge. Conditions are there, just need to find them. Sinji is all holed and upper part increasingly brittle ice mrk pogledjezen Nemška is made to zero!velik nasmeh Only dry thing (M4 6m) is exit chimney, which is fully bolted (could be tangled...)mežikanjeeek Today we dragged damn pig along, not for company but cos it wanted air!zavijanje z očmi If his highness M. graces with pics then you'll see something (this time not mobile)

For you, two Gorenjci Juš and Matej

P.S. two ropes in new central, two in Sinji maybe another two in Teranov (which btw insanely formed) that's balance of today's day at Jezersko, oh couple beers at lake... that must be it!
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JanP14. 01. 2012 18:49:18
Wow! How's the descent from Nemška? Did you go short Nemško? I'll probably repeat your tour tomorrow.
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JusAvgustin14. 01. 2012 19:02:47
Yeah, we went short Nemško, traverse there about 150m long then descend down (it'll be obvious) and on one rock prusik. Then abseil 30m to snowfield above Češko... luck!
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JusAvgustin14. 01. 2012 19:07:21
Oh also: Sinji slap has up top very bad (brittle)nasmeh ice, careful across cos breaks like nothing...
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knap422714. 01. 2012 19:15:50
Couple more pics from today.
Now let's start, lower part - very good ice.1
First belay and intermediate easier section.2
Upper part - all candled.3
Already on the way to Nemška.4
Still a little ''bab''.5
Start of Nemška and...6
continuation, conditions excellent.7
Through the window into...8
detail of the route, which is nicely equipped.9
View through the window towards the Czech hut.10
Endless traverse.11
This prusik saves us from the traverses.12
Visočanstvo P.13
Teranova in the afternoon hours without traffic.14
Viki's candles still lack quite a bit of ice, lower part OK. Best, Matej15
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JanP14. 01. 2012 19:27:50
Going then at four from Ljubljana. So I eat ice meters for others.
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