Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents
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| JusAvgustin23. 01. 2012 22:48:48 |
This afternoon Borut and I climbed Uroševa couloir NŠG. Conditions not like elsewhere, but we still went to stretch limbs and ice tools in this Vršič classic. In current conditions 4 solid jumps and one mind-bending traverse await you in the route At the start need to climb stuck boulder follows ... up the gully to next jump which is very annoying though short, then steeper gully section to big stuck boulder. So little snow in route that belay before boulder unreachable. We decided to bypass it on ledge (what a ledge!) 20m pure psychotherapy, only breathed easy when back in gully to last jump! This jump generally rarely done today completely rotten, then dry tooling to exit ramp leading to NŠG ridge. Entered route at 16.30, topped out at 8:30. Route as said is serious, incomparable to others in Vršič area, that's why my favorite. Last time I climbed it 2m more snow and excellent ice axe conditions. Belays there, intermediate pegs too. Super Vršič afternoon!
Juš and Borut, Pipi stayed home, afraid of dark
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| JusAvgustin27. 01. 2012 16:44:36 |
Lenuhova route in Begunjska vrtača, IV/350m
Work variant I did today was real Jackpot. Drive to Zelenica and hike to BV wall to check route entrances... Suddenly it hits me and I go check entrance to "nudist". Two miserable moves and I'm over. Can't believe, first after last snowfall, gully all mine, virgin. Quickly progress up slid gully that still has jumps at key spots, but now squeaky snow helps me! After 20min trudging sitting at route exit looking at sunlit ridge ahead. This must be new record I say and head to BV summit too. Since too fast, go along ridge to left Šentjanec crack and descend there. Nice beautiful day (afternoon). This time showed the finger to darkness. Pics follow.
P.S. On way back noticed tracks in right entrance of Lenuhova. Tracks turned semicircle and descended flank. Obviously jump too big bite! Thanks for turning back and leaving me the virginity of Lenuhova...
Solo this time, no pig! Juš
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| JakaM27. 01. 2012 17:56:42 |
Today in Teranova, conditions still quite ideal. You can tell a million people been through. Traverse so trampled it's more walk than climbing
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| Ukec28. 01. 2012 11:39:27 |
Does anyone maybe have some information on how Uroševa gully in NŠG is formed this year, maybe some picture...? Would ask to attach a picture or give some info.
Thanks!
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| JusAvgustin28. 01. 2012 11:50:28 |
Check here: http://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?slo=1&gorovjeid=10010&id=2365&stran=13 or one page back. Me and Borut scratched it on Monday. All jumps are wet, the boulder is unclimbable because can't place decent protection, we pounded the traverse (only if you have polished psyche), the jump before exit is very annoying, I recommend taking three friends namely 0.3, 0.5 and 1, couple of slings and two wires don't hurt... We climbed it in under 4 hours.
Best, Juš
Latest info is that the boulder is climbable (entry) through the hole, on left there are already two IV bolts, traverse is still annoying, but we have pitons and our descendants', in exit chimney there's a bolt and at top left belay in scree...) Recommend visiting route daytime
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| knap42271. 02. 2012 19:51:38 |
Today with Juš 'climbed' Lušev Graben, bottom excellent, top sometimes powder and right at end some showering if you go to the end. Overall icefall 10/10.
Best, Matej
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| Stumby1. 02. 2012 22:23:40 |
What are the conditions for ascent from Vrata, over Sovatna to Stenar, is it safe to go there in winter time although now there is little snow, what about the path over Stenarska vratca (I know this is winter), if weather holds I think for weekend go up?
about a month ago I was there (Stenar over Stenarska vratca), and since no mentionable precipitation since then, assume situation similar, but following: in Stenarska vratca at start one cca 80° ice-rock jump (4-5m), couldn't bypass then (ledge on right side)...so recommend two ice axes, otherwise possible with one trekking, as we did, but don't recommend... but nice to climb and good spice...from that jump to top of notch snow frozen, goes fine...from notch to summit we blasted south side on pronounced steep gully, which was quite windblown and sinking deep (south side + inversion), so now assume quite frozen. Returned same way, past Bivak IV to Vrata...but on way back in notch we 'snowmobiled that ledge', so avoided rock jump (possible now up there too)...otherwise nice mountaineering winter tour, and quite long...(recommend sleep in Bivak IV), and next day first to Križ, then over Stenarska vratca to Stenar, as we did...good luck!
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| viharnik3. 02. 2012 22:07:45 |
At noon we drive with Silvo to Kokro at -9°C and park at Dolenjčeva villa. Then on foot along Koritarica valley, frozen stream beds. As a young buck Silvo has salted all done icefalls around here, among others climbed S face of Matterhorn, so I had a trustworthy guy next to me who knows the trade and has been at home in it for over thirty years. First to short steep visible icefield of waterfall, then gentler narrowing, at end concrete steep candlestick barrier to top. Route grade 50°/40°/65°, three pitches length about 100m. Formed ice excellent, climbing excellent, except bit cold which disappears while climbing. Already approach along Korito valley not easiest (water, ice), so good for safety to go in pairs there. Climbing Desna grapa route requires full climbing gear and alpinism knowledge, so no one up there tackles the route too indifferently and naively!. Best
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| panda4. 02. 2012 08:51:27 |
Nice.........but one question: don't they use goggles in such ascent way so nothing falls into eyes? Seems logical to me. Otherwise nice to look at.
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| viharnik4. 02. 2012 09:24:14 |
That detail of spraying in picture is very rarely captured, need luck. Still don't know how Silvo caught me so many times on camera and belayed in between?, didn't recommend goggles.
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| pikec14. 02. 2012 10:47:59 |
You two are super, such climbing in that cold. Congrats, but remark: climbing ice axes?
Would be much easier for you
Best no hard feelings, Grega
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| penzionist4. 02. 2012 12:05:22 |
Bravo @viharnik and welcome to the world of wonderful ice vertical :-)
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| mukica4. 02. 2012 17:29:49 |
Congratulations,Viharnik...
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| Janc4. 02. 2012 17:49:09 |
Bravo
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| ljubitelj gora4. 02. 2012 19:48:22 |
Viharnik your description of conditions is 1A, many will think twice before tackling such a feat.
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| viharnik4. 02. 2012 21:09:40 |
Thanks for the nice wishes and congratulations. Ice climbing is a really nice sport and not too demanding if following climbing and belaying rules, just need to sharpen feel for ice and climbing style and core body balance, and also assess if the ice will hold. As I see Silvo climbs with exceptional feel, caresses the ice with picks and moves feet so synchronously it looks like floating over candles, younger ones use more force picking but not always good. Important in ice climbing to realize feet bear most weight, ice axes just help balance torso. Yes, practice makes master always.
I mentioned route warning because no references in ice alpinism, but known more among scree hikers and inexperienced might simplify. Otherwise this ice route is training for alpinist trainees to first pitch, learning stances, self-belay, abseil. Better ice axes make route easier but regular ones worked fine. With flat adzes masters climbed Alps problems normally till '85. As good test basic Grivel ice axe survived live ice well.
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| primorec6. 02. 2012 16:13:37 |
Good day everyone writing on this site. All these icefalls listed above are super and interesting as conditions for them are just right. Wondering if icefalls in Tamar valley are formed and suitable for climbing (e.g. Centralec, Rastlinica .. ). If anyone has info I'd be grateful.
Best primorec
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| Zebdi6. 02. 2012 19:50:07 |
Given that Lucifer is solidly formed and the icefalls in Logarska are too, I'll bet that in Tamar at least some icefalls are normally climbable or have enough ice for a safe ascent. What the ice is like, you'll see on site - I assume due to low temperatures it's pretty hard.
Best,
P.
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| knap42278. 02. 2012 17:21:52 |
Today first a look at Katarza then on to the Misjudged Jumpers, nicely formed except for the middle dry part, which is no problem (left or right - doesn't matter). Continuation along the hunter's path towards Stiriofobija, several times wider than last year and offers a nice shower before the last 'šus'. Then descent to the valley, then some wishes for Katarza, but luckily didn't collapse in the rush of Kranj guys. Some other time.
Juš has the pics .
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