Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents
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| Lisa17. 02. 2012 10:00:18 |
Wine, 3 weeks ago at the start, at the very entrance there was one rock pitch and that was all. Probably now totally OK and the entrance covered too ... Enjoy picking 
Best
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| skrajnik18. 02. 2012 20:51:29 |
Today picked on sports day four locals of different winds, below Prednja glava, check (IMHO?) second waterfall.
Conditions were ok, just the later the hour, the wetter everything got, but no crisis yet, some streams under sleeve...
Descent by waterfall back, meet another rope team. Because of communication everything drags on, time left only for beer and only for one, cause all at home impatiently waiting for ours ... 
Conditions of other stuff on front head various, some done, others not, best check there... ice is good 
ps: gotta say all others pulled me amateur route and I had to find myself the steepest, vertical, upright parts, so it was interesting at all. And it pumped me so much I couldn't feel arms half hour when finally up porkamadnona...
pps: no come on
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| dk20. 02. 2012 16:22:02 |
Today in Pekel, unfortunately no more for climbing, because on all waterfalls already decently flowing, ice looks thin  . But nicely snowed !
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| FLEKSARCA22. 02. 2012 19:12:11 |
What's the situation in the central gully on Begunjščica after the last snowfall, thanks for any info.
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| skrajnik27. 02. 2012 18:09:15 |
Hi!
Has anyone been moving in the gully between V.Baba and Ledinski vrh these days?
Or at least to Jezersko? Conditions?
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| viharnik27. 02. 2012 18:40:55 |
Now the snow there has settled a bit, for steep gullies though I think still missing some decent renewed thaw so snow bonds better with the base. There at Jezersko still young frost, similar to Tamar. Question is if anyone even reached Češka hut.
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| skrajnik27. 02. 2012 20:54:41 |
will have to check it live ...
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| Snow Leppard28. 02. 2012 15:39:10 |
Regarding conditions on Begunjščica: Šentanski avalanche on top completely bare, same for descent gully. Climbed Ostržek's, highest jump almost completely bare, just a bit of ice and snow in cracks. Would almost be grateful for some protection...
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| skrajnik29. 02. 2012 22:16:42 |
Yesterday I head to Jezersko to use the last day of conditions and test the gully between Velika baba and Ledinski vrh.
Around 7.00 start from the farm towards the lift, on the way meet a guide with Englishmen, heading to sinji slap and it looks really inviting.
Shame I'm solo.
Soon at the lift and onwards to the gully, snow just right to hold weight almost always, pine
forest and I'm at the entry. Since I didn't know exactly what to expect, I move somehow quickly to see the difficulties ahead as soon as possible.
Soon see reworked avalanche and got feeling the gully will be well formed.. And it was, because such conditions I haven't met in my
gully trips (though not many yet . Compacted snow, styrofoam and ice! Excellent conditions! Jumps just interesting enough for soloing, but despite
perfect conditions had to place gear. All the time "what's next" chases me so without break around 10.30 at the rock by end of ferrata.
At snack decide for summit and descent to Jenkova planina, because didn't feel like Austrian and then to ledine, and S slopes seemed a bit suspicious.
But from here conditions completely changed - windblown powder on rocks, all soft, collapsing to ass, even worse just below summit -
only scratching rocks saves me.. Short break, strong wind, go to end of ridge to shelter!
As it turned out descent was 10x harder than ascent.. Sharp ridge, on ridge windblown soft snow, weird slabs, collapsing to
wherever, crawling on ridge,... It destroyed me, but slowly and carefully reach the end. When I catch breath from cliffs, then
get into even worse conditions - pines covered in snow.. Hard to push forward, 10m takes 10min and already fed up choose first enjoyable gully,
contours look even, crampons down and in half hour down the avalanche direct at Krničar
Still break and enjoying views, peace, adventure .. then slowly to car at 16.00. Was nice!
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| robter1. 03. 2012 09:16:57 |
"As it turned out the descent was 10x harder than ascent." - honestly said
Congrats
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| viharnik1. 03. 2012 15:53:49 |
Congrats to skrajnik for the demanding tour. Namely I myself from Golem vrh observed the ridge to Mala baba, which really per skrajnik's tale was unusual with lots of debris deposits and windblown here and there, on sight completely inaccessible for safe crossing.
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| skrajnik4. 03. 2012 19:08:02 |
Has anyone been around Vrat - Stena - Slovenska?
How much is iced up?
Supposed to cool down this week
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| urbanzunter4. 03. 2012 20:51:35 |
I was there last week. Last day before thawing. I estimate there's little snow left in the route...You can definitely drive to Vrata with the car...Photo taken 21.2.2012...Entrance...
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| rozka4. 03. 2012 21:21:45 |
Hey "skrajnik",
I have one photo, from the path to Kukova špica, taken on Sunday 26.02.2012, towards the "wall", if it helps, it's a bit from afar...with car I got to Peričnik
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| skrajnik4. 03. 2012 21:26:55 |
thanks a lot..
really looks pretty dry, we'll wait a bit more, then
it'll be rocky
on your rozka, pretty poorly visible
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| Stumby9. 03. 2012 17:35:11 |
does anyone have current info on conditions in Hudičev žleb??? I assume there are rocky steps with the poor amount of snow this year, just curious how long and what difficulties...best
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| knap422711. 03. 2012 18:53:56 |
Today first up the eastern gully (Pomladni cvet) to Palec, then Y to Vrtača, descent via southern gully towards Zelenica, where we try košutnik, not just once . Conditions are optimal, just the start of the spring bloom is rather ''lousy''.
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| trilko17. 03. 2012 19:01:27 |
Anyone have fresh info on how the gulleys on Begunjščica are? We'd go up early tomorrow morning... Thanks!!
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| skrajnik21. 03. 2012 21:42:06 |
Conditions in Vrata and Stena:
Today Slovenian route across the wall, expected something completely different than what we got.
Below free scratching to the white slabs, there sprinkled rocks with a couple cm snow and extremely delicate ascent to Bučar wall, where already snow up to knees/ass, scratching across Bučar to Slovene gully full of new fluffy sloppy snow that sinks as far as it goes, entry into windblown Prevc exit, where only jamming on rocks and pulling on pegs moves you 1 step forward and after ?? hours at the wall edge.
Then descent on southern snow with half-meter bootpack across the threshold that had to be found before. New snow 20-50cm, windblown even more..
Whole day the wall, Vrata and its holiness for just us two
And once again it shows that despite low route grade, don't underestimate big walls, not even the "grey lady". Never!
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