Hike.uno
Hike.uno
Login
Login
Username:
Password:
Login
Not registered yet? Registration.
Forgot password?
      

Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents

Print
Janez Seliškar3. 03. 2018 19:38:56
Tominčev slap has its hours numbered at current temperatures.
1
2
(+5)like
Todi4. 03. 2018 12:03:07
Today in Pekel Gorge, all waterfalls nicely formed, but on return waterfall 2 was already a bit collapsing.
Otherwise nice, wintery, ...
preparations1
Let's go2
3
waterfalls, ...4
there are many of them5
At the first6
At the second7
The second8
snapshot9
10
11
Third12
Fifth13
Gear14
little bridge15
First waterfall, start16
At the fifth17
In the second18
the sequence annoyed me a bit19
(+4)like
coffee22. 03. 2018 18:44:51
Today from Robanov kot to Robanova grapa and then descent to old Kocbekova koča and continuation of descent down Kocbekova grapa.

Marked path leads directly to the waterfalls, above which the gully starts. I skipped the waterfalls, tried to reach the gully first via right slopes, where snow is very bad, sinks to knees. The last traverse above the second waterfall seemed a bit suspicious to me, so I rather descended under the waterfall and went left, a bit above the marked path. Over a short chimney I climbed to the ridge and descended about 10m into the gully. The first waterfall actually isn't there, as it's almost completely buried, but possible to climb over it via a bridge over the short ledge, but I don't know how stable the bridge is. Second waterfall looks super, candle very compact, ice of the third looks ok, thickness just enough. In the gully mostly hard or frozen snow. But there are two sections with lots of windblown snow, there it goes a bit slower. Chimney fully iced and allows fast progress. I avoided the rock jump above chimney to the right on the ridge, because not sure to go over it. Left of the jump the whole vertical wall is covered with thick ice and candles. Roughly one full pitch. Maybe someone will try. Along the ridge I traversed back into the gully in the last part. In the middle of this part there's a quite steep step, I think the steepest in the whole gully. Gully top is a few tens of meters above it.

From there I descended to Kocbekova koča and into Kocbekova grapa. Gully is very wide, so descent direction arbitrary, which consequently means more or less difficulties. I went extreme right in descent direction, directly along the wall. To the avalanche track in the valley snow is powder, except a short iced jump where you have to work a bit. Actually from the hut to Roban/Govec with stops and slower walking took me 2 hours.
Morning Krofička1
Morning Ojstrica2
Robanova grapa - start in snowfield without trees in the middle of the lower part of the picture3
little tree4
waterfalls, at the lower one the bridge over the stream is visible5
like this iced in spring, photographed last April6
closer7
middle and upper8
above the upper one the gully starts to the right, then to the left and then further zigzag9
Continuation10
Rovanov kot11
View down12
View up13
in the chimney14
pitch, several variants possible, left in ice, central along the ledge into the crack, usual central and left, and right ridge (not visible here)15
iced wall16
lower part, then either crack or left into gully17
part of the right ridge variant18
19
upper part and exit20
after exit traverse right in descent where the crack variant would join and then further right into gully21
southwestern Robanov kot22
descent from ridge back into gully and on to steep step23
summit, left Žvižgave ...24
and left Velika zelenica (I think)25
white patches (1)26
white patches (2)27
white patches (3)28
just behind church descent into Kocbekovo gully, right into walls ...29
or to left slopes30
went into walls, some cornices already carried away31
others not yet32
Nice continuation33
just before harder part34
view up after exit from harder section35
Continuation36
Already almost in the valley37
evening glows38
(+15)like
Dr.ejči24. 03. 2018 06:58:18
"Early hour, young boys' grave" or how sometimes it's cool if you take too long deciding where to go and thus "miss the start"...anyway, on Thursday my buddy and I head out climbing and we're immensely grateful to the two youngsters who drilled the whole couloir to the entry ahead of us (beer on us!)...the route itself is finger-lickin' good!...squeaky poetry!...sure, first pitch is a stroll, but the second stands up straight...squeak squeak all the way to the cave...pre-duh is buried, so need to bypass, or "climb around"...there we rope up 'cause there's plenty of air under the ass...to the ledge fully flooded, follows kickstepping which our young ones handled well (thanks!)...above it the "final sprint" to the ridge...at the top panting!...a bit from views, a bit from wind...descent paths lead to Kofce but doesn't smell good to us (later proved very right decision)...under influence of "dragon wings" doping, we hurl north to the saddle...after downclimb from slab (backwards) first miss the right gully (repeaters stick to left tracks!), go back some 10m and descend to the right one...on cables do three 30m rappels and we're at "Hanjžek"...descent to beer of course draaaaaaaaags...well, not every day Thursday...enjoyed for you, Štefan and Andrej (and Čuvi was with us)

p.s. We did Prontal...big grin
1
...walk across the first drop...2
...in the second the world stands a bit upright...3
...creaking poetry...4
...still creaking...5
...the view is also there...6
...stomping from log to log...7
...from the cave...8
...detail from the cave...9
...over which we rope up...10
...drenched, creaking, gully...11
...final finish, towards the warm sun...12
...cream...13
...even more cream...14
...almost already sugary...15
...overdose!...16
...descent on doping...17
...enjoyer...18
...ritensko z raza...19
...wrong gully (the right one is one gully further to the left)20
...three abseils...21
...ah...22
...on Hanjžku congratulating oneself...23
...still routine dir na pir.24
(+17)like
dprapr24. 03. 2018 08:11:46
Enjoyers.smile
(+2)like
Dr.ejči30. 03. 2018 09:47:30
Ah, those posts...how they make you "itch"...tempting post by Kranj "Youngsters" pulled us, slightly older "Youngsters", on Tuesday to the neighborhood of overly watered "ski slope" Kramarjeva this year...since first time, thanks to predecessors we comforted with navigation...right away on entry pitch pull out "spaghetti" because there probably hardest base that day, as we ground the rest of the route...to bivouac kinda boring...well, for interim comfort one pitch with decent base...above bivvy some kickstepping, then finally it starts...follow tracks and they (after rechecking Kranj guys' post, realize not theirs), before key part (one pitch, probably very compact gully??), pull us right to bypass...that was the goof of the day...crumbly traverse, steeply up in fairly open terrain, tricky step onto slab and "traverse rahitikus" back to gully!...phew, far from easy...luckily transition to gully right at belay so pulled "spaghet" again...(next time def straight up steep gully where belays are fixed too)...further to ridge some pitches and kickstepping all in beautiful "mix"...weather one, that is...anyway nice route but bit harder than left neighbor...

enjoyed for you, Tanja, Štefan and Andrej (and Čuvi with us)
Entry pitch in the Mladinska route...1
...desert right at the beginning...2
...laborious stamping...3
...but the ambience is quite good...4
...consoling little pitch...5
...past the bivouac...6
...above it...7
...towards the gully (and the blunder of the day)...8
...the tracks pull us to the right...9
...rickety bypass (hurray for the grass!)...10
...traverse into the gully...11
...should have gone straight up...12
...intermediate diversions...13
...otherwise just walking...14
...15
...we had some snow flurries...16
...exit onto the ridge...17
...a few minutes later...18
...the norther was on our side...19
...meanwhile on T. vrh and Kriški they were nicely stoking...20
...halfway...21
...glorious descent into the Fifth Gully.22
(+15)like
Stef_Smi31. 03. 2018 12:46:13
When I now look out the window, I'm especially glad we managed to bag Mladinska and Prontarska the previous days nasmeh A few more pics from Tuesday's Mladinska route in Storžič:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
(+12)like
Dr.ejči8. 05. 2018 07:55:20
Disaster!!!...Armed to the teeth with full winter combat gear of course velik nasmeh, each with his "spaghetti" + some extra gear just in case eek and a huge dose of desire zavijanje z očmi for mixed climbing (mix, local style), we headed to the longest gully in Karavanke...from the "neighbor's" side, of course...in the evening it seemed almost a "bizarre" idea velik nasmeh (two years ago we actually scratched on rock and did bypasses eek)...this year we just rushed it velik nasmeh...true, the approach to the gully (from Kuhar) kept us quite busy, as there is a huge amount of fallen trees below (groping for the hunter's path), water also quite a bit (undermined path), and to top it off we approached through a "Turkish sauna" eek...when we finally cleared the path and caught our breath to the air...shock!!!!...disaster!!! eek...in the gully there is still an enormous amount of snow! eek...so instead of mixing, walking awaited us velik nasmeh...walk...walk...walk...we did put on crampons, the rest hung as decoration and especially as weight on and in the backpack velik nasmeh...the higher we climbed, the more we wished for some "piiiiiiiiiiip" to spice things up...that wish was fulfilled for us, albeit only with one!!! snow step velik nasmeh (at least we took the axes off the packs)...towards the top another!!! narrowing of the snowfield...crazy! velik nasmeh...from the saddle we jumped to the top of Palec for a snack and "doping" velik nasmeh...the desire for "mixing" still burned velik nasmeh...so, on "dragon wings" mežikanje, we spiced up the sweaty snow approach with a ridge descent Palec - Na Možeh...in the end it all turned out as an interesting, combined zavijanje z očmi tour... "the wolf is full", we were very thirsty velik nasmeh...we just needed a ride to Austria.

suffered for you, Štefan and Andrej (and Čuvi mežikanje)
Morning approach, between mikado and Turkish sauna...1
...wet wet wet...2
...the ravine finally comes into view...3
...Rusty cathedral?...4
...fitting the name of the gorge...Spring flower in Palec...5
...there is way too much snow...6
...walking...7
...walking...8
...walking...9
...most impressive detail of the ravine...(this year walking through it, two years ago decent scramble over the rock step)10
...walking...11
...walking...12
...finally!!!!...some action...13
...I'm enjoying...14
...Štef enjoys...15
...the only mix in the gorge...16
...then walking again...17
...narrowing...18
...exit cracking...19
...top...20
...it looked tempting, but we were all too exhausted...21
...this descent suits us better.22
(+11)like
Mako8. 05. 2018 20:31:17
"...to the longest gully in Karavanke..."

Pity, you missed the longest gully in Karavanke. Next time maybe it will succeed velik nasmeh
(+2)like
Dr.ejči10. 05. 2018 06:47:18
True, sarcasm and snark are not foreign to me either mežikanje, but uncle nosy would still like to know which gully we missed?...by my knowledge that's it, Jankotova is really longer ROUTE mežikanje
like
Mako10. 05. 2018 11:31:17
Dr.Andrejči, if you looked at the problem a bit broader like scientists do, you might discover right of Jankot probably the longest gully/couloir in the Karavanks. It has already been skied, at least twice wink

Thanks for the EMPHASIS big grin
(+2)like
mihah10. 06. 2018 20:49:20
Today with mates we climbed short German. Snowfield still plenty from German turret onwards and on descent over ledge. Otherwise the wall was mostly dry today - super climbing nasmeh

Above snowfield above Zlatorog ledges we forgot 60-meter yellow double rope. If good soul brings it to valley has sixpack beer coming nasmeh
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
(+11)like
Koldo9. 01. 2019 21:52:35
Andrej Pecjak has updated his webpage regarding ice climbing conditions. Check it out!

http://www.ad-pecjak.si/ice/conditions.htm

Thanks Andrej!
(+2)like
gj10. 01. 2019 08:08:01
Thanks Koldo, Andrej. Good luck
(+1)like
Viper25. 02. 2019 22:46:59
Yesterday through the long German route in Dolgi Hrbet. Conditions in the route were good, I could say even top-notch.
On the harder parts, where snow is stuck to the rock it holds everything or at least quite well, so no major difficulties.
To the end of the short German route my friend and I had 4 pitches of real serious climbing.
Right a bit higher from the end of the short German route another steep section approx 10m, where we had to climb quite a bit. Then to the top of the long German route no more major difficulties. The whole route is already nicely trodden. Of course we weren't alone, but almost crowded I could saynasmeh.
We descended via the path from Mlinarsko sedlo towards Češka koča, but not for long. We quickly went down other tracks too, which weren't along the path but led into total abyss, where we quickly hit the first prusik in the rock, where we did 2 rappels of 60m and 1 of 40m and already below the wall. I think it was a shortcut, time-wise too.




At the entrance to the route1
First pitch2
Second pitch3
4
Third pitch5
Fourth pitch6
7
Last more demanding section8
9
At the top of the German route10
(+13)like
dprapr26. 02. 2019 07:51:58
Nice that some interesting trip is also posted here, for us who enjoy only by looking at pictures anymore.nasmeh
Congrats, Viper.
That part on the 5th picture looks pretty steep.
Probably the hardest part of the route there?
(+1)like
JusAvgustin26. 02. 2019 11:26:24
That's the chimney in the German gully. Matej and I had it dry as pepper. Here it looks very good conditions.
(+2)like
Viper26. 02. 2019 15:41:41
Yes Dprapr it really is.
Jus I believe if it's bare on those jumps, it can be much harder.
(+3)like
Shkaro3. 03. 2019 18:10:24
Today (03.03.2019.) my friend and I climbed Ostrzkova gully (III, 400m). Conditions are excellent, all jumps covered with ice and early morning snow excellent (but for the main jump in these conditions wouldn't say III, rather IV). Later on the upper part snow got heavier (around 9am) but as soon as under the ridge everything was super.
View into the gully after the first pitch1
Above the first pitch2
Above the second pitch - great ice climbing3
Last snowy jump4
Walk to the first belay5
Enjoying the sun and rest on the ridge6
After Begunjska Vrtača we walked the ridge towards Begunjščica7
Summit of Begunjščica and descent via the powerhouse for beer at the hut on Zelenica :)8
(+12)like
Dr.ejči20. 04. 2019 19:54:00
Those of us who bought a ticket for Slovensko yesterday cashed it in really well nasmeh. Younger would say "best ever!". Really, conditions to shout about! For dessert descended also via Prag (for me first time ever!)velik nasmeh. Super day, in company of "senior citizens" velik nasmeh
Larches...1
...at the marking...2
...compact...3
...everything iced over...4
...it didn't look bad behind either...5
...pure joy...6
...we almost ran through the Beli platam...7
...only in Prontarski it was harder this year...8
...gazing intently...9
...Bučar's cream...10
...we get pursuers...11
...no comment...12
...detail of the day, regarding the snow's friability...13
...the youngsters are hunting us...14
...they're probably enjoying it over there too?...15
...waaaaaaa...16
...my companion...17
...Prevc, which we were sure we would trudge through...18
...man, what!...set in concrete!!!...19
...the boys slowly started to whine...20
...payback...21
...then someone even set this up for us...22
...descent over Prag...good thing I cheered so much for it...23
...suuuuuun...24
...edelweiss...25
...in one hand (pardon, head), I carry the sun...26
...crossing...27
...dry toolers...28
...and the smell of beer was getting stronger.29
(+18)like
Page:123...24252627
You must log in to post a comment:
Username:
Password:
Login
If you do not yet have a username, you must first register.
         
Copyright © 2026 Hike.uno, Terms of use, Privacy and cookies