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Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents

Dr.ejči11. 02. 2017 21:13:12

The waterfall is there, even though only 20 m fun velik nasmeh

...approach to it...well, quite a walk, so probably no one yet this year? mežikanje

...weather was good, about various 70 cm, but here we can only dream mežikanje

...

(+5)

Viper12. 02. 2017 17:46:20

First stopped a bit before Logarska dolina and for warmup climbed Avtocesta and Kaskada. Avtocesta still in good shape. Kaskada climbable at bottom only far right side. Drove under Palenk hoping to climb it at least to top on far right. When arrived under fall already some parties and knew it was climbable. But for better feel went path to top of fall to check all ice pitches if climbable. Returned under fall and enjoyed various variants to top with four 100m ascents.
For fifth ascent thought if to climb Palenk over steepest curtain in fall, which is WI 3+.
Of course went right away. At curtain looked up and saw really steep (3m 90° and approx 4-5m at least 80°). Said oh man it's steep nasmeh

. Didn't think much, just went for it and climbed nicely no problems.
Palenk surprised me it was still so well formed despite thaw.

At the parking lot with a view of Palenk

This lower right curtain I climb on the left and right side

View downward from the ledge where the path crosses the waterfall right over this ledge

Right part of the waterfall, where there is easier climbing to WI 2

View of the middle part of the waterfall

Here on the right it was really nice to climb

Štenge. No need to hammer the cepine at all, they could just be hooked in

Last part of the waterfall, where it was still so formed that it could be ascended more gently

Lower left curtain, which was also very nicely formed.

And I climbed here too, through the middle of the waterfall

The only rope team today that dared to go over the steepest curtain in the waterfall WI 3

With this inspection I decided that I must climb it too

In the next ascent already under the most demanding curtain

Right below the curtain. When I looked up, I said to myself, oh man it's steep

(+7)

grega_z_brega12. 02. 2017 19:12:53

Bravo Viper!! nasmeh

You've really climbed a ton mežikanje

(+2)

ločanka12. 02. 2017 19:38:23

grega, you'll have to go with him another time nasmeh

(+2)

grega_z_brega12. 02. 2017 19:43:43

I'd go, but he won't take me. mrk pogled

(+2)

ločanka12. 02. 2017 19:48:02

You'll have to buy taller shoes nasmeh

(+3)

Viper12. 02. 2017 19:48:16

How can I take you if you never want to go on such a tour with me jezik

.
I can already imagine how you'd climb the icefall with one hiking ice axe, especially that steep part nasmeh

(+3)

grega_z_brega12. 02. 2017 19:51:57

ločanka not just shoes. jezik

Viper and I will go somewhere else. mežikanje

(+2)

dprapr12. 02. 2017 19:58:33

Viper, you wrote that the screws are already made... velik nasmeh

(+2)

Viper12. 02. 2017 20:01:19

Yes they are in the flatter parts jezik

(+2)

Viper26. 02. 2017 18:52:42

Yesterday late evening I decided to go to Maltatal once to check out how the waterfalls look here, because I've never been to this area before. For climbing I wasn't really sure if I could climb any waterfall at all. When I got to Maltatal I soon spotted the solidly formed Rechter Dreifaltigkeitsfall. Of course I decide to try climbing it, after 15 minutes I got under the waterfall. Right at the entrance the first steeper part about 5m to 80° to a small ledge awaits me. From the ledge the most demanding part in the waterfall starts with inclination up to about 80° roughly 15m. After this steeper part the waterfall flattens again about 3m but not for long, as at the top another demanding almost vertical part about 4m awaits me. From the top of the waterfall I rappelled down the right side along the waterfall on rope 2 x 30m. The ice in the waterfall was quite hard, icicles were forming too, but the ice was quite dry nothing watery.

Second most demanding part in the waterfall

On a small ledge, where there is also a belay

The last steep curtain, where you have to traverse to the left

View of the last curtain from the other side after the left traverse

(+4)

Dr.ejči26. 02. 2017 22:38:54

Begunjščica/Ideals... but conditions far from it. To the start without major issues, wading was quite ok. First pitch just trashed, grass nicely visible. Second just a bit better. Between pitches "swimming" in powder. At the third, solid blockage, things got a bit complicated for me. Probably could bypass it on ramp just before it?? I bit it direct next to "cave" on right, turned out solid M3-4? Really psyched me out. Continuing just scratching to the pitch. That one bounced me. When almost giving up and thinking how to hammer past psycho pitch on return, spot the bypass. Then again pure mix (3x hurray for grass) to topout. From there solid ratrakking (if some "sadomaso" repeats, maybe beer, hehe) to summit ridge. Descent via Sestopni, upper part also quite bare (some pitch to posthole). In short, nice route when no soul in Begunjščica... just no hut in between.

(+7)

JusAvgustin27. 02. 2017 06:11:23

Bravo. Congratulations!

Viper5. 03. 2017 20:26:02

Today I was again in Maltatal. Climbed Strannerbach waterfall WI 3, 500m. The waterfall is still excellently formed, the higher I was the more ice there was. Strannerbach was best formed compared to other waterfalls, which already look quite bad. Ice in the waterfall was already quite wet, so ice axes held excellently everywhere. In the whole waterfall not even one talar formed nasmeh

.
From the top had to rappel approx 10x 30m, cuz I had only single rope.
Some unrepaired anchors in rock. Trees can also be nicely used for rappels.