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Ridge Traverse of Loška stena

slavkoa19. 10. 2017 13:06:17

After my visit last year to the V part of Loška stena from Plešivca to Morež of course with Votli vrh, Mirjam and I decided to visit the Z part on Tuesday. This wall fascinated or challenged me last year with its difficulty, high grasses, snakes and numerous other hazards, so I decided on the ridge traverse of the Z part. We approached from Bavščica and just before the hunting hut turned left into the steep forest part and soon climbed under the base of Stadorja, which I had conquered last year so we didn't linger there as our goal was to start with Briceljka and end with Kobila and descent towards the scree via the old hunting path. We climbed Briceljka fairly quickly as there were no major difficulties, above the scree under the summit there were still some snow patches left, but not bothersome. There was no snow anywhere else on the path, grasses were dry already in the morning, so no major slip risk, but of course need to be extremely careful on grasses due to steepness, didn't notice snakes either (last year I nearly grabbed a few while climbing steep grasses). At the top of Briceljka we enjoyed the view of the eastern part of Loška stena, in the background Mangart rising and of course neighboring Jalovec, our next goal were Oltarji, which proved with quite difficult ascent, searching holds and enjoyable climbing to the top, we continued along the ridge to Vrh Rup and carefully to Oblice, which is equipped with a bolt and belay option as we had rope and all climbing gear with us, even didn't forget crampons, as they come in handy in steep grasses. From Oblice we carefully descended to the ridge towards Vrh Krnice, Mirjam rappelled to the ridge with rope, I during her abseil preparation slowly downclimbed without protection. Of course I don't recommend this to anyone, no mistake, better use rope on riskier descents and take a bit longer with abseil setup but the holds seemed solid and secure to me for descent, so I had lots of time to photograph the already conquered summits and ridge ahead and of course my partner's descent. After descent to ridge we continued to Vrh Krnice and then again descent to Vrh Male krnice. On the left we were already admiring Kobila, which were waiting for our visit, of course we didn't keep them waiting long, soon climbed them too. With that our plan after conquering seven summits of Z part of Loška stena was fulfilled, descent to valley awaited but we postponed it to next day as we spent too much energy and time searching suitable descent path. So we bivouacked under the stars near Mala Krnica and on Wednesday continued descent to valley. The wonderful two days we finished at the water trough near parking in Bavščica tired and at the same time happy that our planned feat succeeded, which we plan to upgrade in coming years with traversing the entire ridge from Plešivca to Kobiljih glav. Finally just warning that this traverse is extremely demanding and long and don't tackle it without proper knowledge, fitness both physical and mental and appropriate gear.
Nice mountaineering greetings to all
Slavko & Mirjam

morning view of Stador on the right and start of our peaks

scree below Briceljek showed some snow patches and scared us a bit

view towards Morež illuminated by the morning sun

These snow patches won't deter us from continuing the path any longer, but they are a reminder for ahead.

Just before the summit of Briceljka we spotted our next peaks with Oltarji in the foreground.

My climbing partner on the summit of Briceljka had no idea how many challenges still awaited us on the path.

... along this ridge we will continue ...

and reached the beginning of the climb to the Oltarji

Steep walls tower towards the valley of Log pod Mangartom

Nice climbing to start the more demanding part of the path

View back to Briceljka, our first host today

then again forward along the ridge towards Vrh Rup and Oblici

Now ahead of us is Oblica with a slightly harder ascent

To me the nicest shot today, showing the difficulty of our undertaking

What a sharp ridge along our traversed path

We simply can't stop admiring the path we've traversed

Now a rope descent, Mirjam prepares the abseil, I admire the peaks ahead

My Mirjam in action, every mountaineer can only dream of such a brave climbing partner (a few months ago she underwent back surgery)

In places the ridge is like a highway, but caution is still necessary

Another look into the valley, which is quite scary from our height

another conquered summit, now descent to the lower sister

from Vrh Krnice right to V Gradu and the peak above Mala Krnica

our conquered peaks today, a few more await

traverse from the top of Mala Krnica towards Kobile

the next day then descent from Vrh Krnice and slowly to the valley

the terrain with boulders quite exhausted us at the end of our excursion

(+10)

lijaneja19. 10. 2017 13:53:15

On the third picture Morež is 3 cm away from the right edge of the picture. velik nasmeh

slavkoa19. 10. 2017 15:17:00

Yeah I know, that's why I wrote under the photo a comment - view of Morež, as the sun shone directly into the phone while photographing and I didn't see exactly what I was shooting at all. You as experienced cat notice every detail, I have to conquer still a bit less than half of all Slovenian two-thousanders to at least roughly know which peak is on the picture. Thanks for your remark and I wish you lots of enjoyment on your next ascents.

(+1)

dprapr19. 10. 2017 16:02:36

Nice tour you two did.
Yeah, mostly we just rush, on the ridge of Loška stena we should bivouac sometime. Probably such a tour night adds its charm. But whatever, since it's more for the young... nasmeh

Tone, isn't Morež summit a couple minutes ahead behind that other peaklet from the right? zmeden

palček plezalček19. 10. 2017 16:19:07

Imperial tour nasmeh

lijaneja19. 10. 2017 17:48:57

@dprapr Two minutes, and six seconds. nasmeh

(+1)

matic430. 06. 2019 12:02:10

Yesterday I completed the traverse Kluže-Vrh Krnice-Briceljk-Bala. Most strenuous to Vrh Krnice, then not so much, but it's long. Whole loop took me thirteen hours. Won't repeat what's already said here. For (self-)protection 30m rope proved optimal. That rope over smooth jump between Oblica and Vrh Rup is gone. In gully below Briceljk still a couple of snow patches, avoidable. Trail from Briceljk to Bala overgrown in lower part, hard to follow. No snakes on trail, but saw golden eagle (towards Vrh Krnice, meadow bit above forest line). Once you see it live, you know what a beautiful animal it is. Above Bala minor rockfall, interesting where rocks scattered. Met no hikers on whole path.

The start in Kluže is hidden and overgrown.

above the forest line towards Mala Krnica

pre-summit, Vrh Krnice in the background

view from Vrh Krnice: from left to right Rombon and Kanin, Možnica, Jerebica

(+10)

Viper30. 06. 2019 13:52:52

Super bravo

(+2)

palček plezalček30. 06. 2019 14:15:54

(+2)

lijaneja30. 06. 2019 14:48:43

Matic, I think the exit from the road is a couple of tens of meters further. Is there between Oblica and Vrh Rup (difficult part) also some anchor or do you go with rope around the rock. And according to you, how long a rope would suffice. Thanks for the answer.
Eagles are truly magnificent. At the beginning of the month we also observed there three pairs circling in the sky high above us.

(+2)

mito300030. 06. 2019 15:28:33

Nice loop and fairly long

(+2)

lijaneja30. 06. 2019 15:57:53

Matjaž, if you want, we'll repeat, if you'll carry the rope. But it's only half of Loška stena velik nasmeh

(+2)

mito300030. 06. 2019 16:06:39

I know it's half. I'm already carrying some meters of rope, you'll have to wait a bit longer for me. velik nasmeh

bos30. 06. 2019 16:54:52

Congrats on the nice long tour!
Haven't been to Vrh Krnice yet, to Briceljek long ago ... so if you take me on the traverse it'll be an honor to carry the rope jezik

matic430. 06. 2019 16:55:42

The start of the path is as on the photo. I also searched for the start a couple of hundred meters further towards Bavščica. There everything is now dug up and cut down. At the start it doesn't look like a path at all, it's so overgrown. The path goes towards Log, in the forest it is then clearer.
Between Oblica and Vrh Rup there is an anchor at every difficult part. I'd advise 30m, minimum 10m. If you know where to step, everything can be free climbed, except the smooth jump where there used to be a rope (I think it's 5m).

(+1)

lijaneja30. 06. 2019 17:37:02

Thanks, Matic. On this mountain (Loška stena) I have only a gray spot between Oblica and Vrh Rup. All peaks over 2000m (15) I visited years ago and I want this short connecting part while I can velik nasmeh

@bos, if you're up for it, I'll gladly hand you the rope for full-day care nasmeh

, it weighs 1.9kg and is 40m long. If you have a 30-meter one (Matic's suggestion) it will be much lighter for you.
To avoid unplanned annoyances, here's my approximate timetable. Kluže-Vrh Krnice 4 hours, Briceljek 2.5, cold drink in Bali 2. In Bavšica we'll hire someone to drive us to Kluže for payment.
Guys, if you agree with what's written, contact me on PM.

mito30006. 07. 2019 07:51:36

Yesterday with Tone and Boštjan we did the traverse from Vrh Krnice to Briceljek. We started in Kluže where the path start is really quite overgrown. All the way to Vrh Male Krnice the path is honestly steep and thus tiring for those less fit. A little before Vrh Krnice the continuation of the ridge appeared, which fog unfortunately started to cover. To Vrh Oblice we climb up the gully. To Vrh Rup there are three short jumps, the first two didn't cause us problems, for the third we used a rope (10-meter one is enough). The continuation towards Oltarji is not overly demanding but requires care. Due to fog we descended from Oltarji a bit unsuccessfully down a very steep gully full of slippery grass. Later we found out that the right path goes more to the right (viewed from below). To the top of Briceljek it was just a walk. The descent from Briceljek to Bavšica is quite long and in places in tall grass the path gets lost.

Oblica, accessible via the central gully

Descent from the third pillar where we used a rope for the abseil.

Descent from Oltarji via the right gully in the middle of Oltarji.

(+5)

lijaneja6. 07. 2019 15:22:23

Maybe yesterday's tour doesn't belong under this title, since only Drago, Vinko and Jovan processed the complete ridge, who opened the topic. Anyway, we were on six peaks, since repeating that trio only few can manage in one go.
After the previous short arrangement with two youngsters we set off at half past eight from Kluže into the steep. This time I didn't carry ice axe and crampons, as a month ago, but more water instead, since a hot day was forecast and the rucksack was heavy again. velik nasmeh

With short stops after less than four hours we reached the first peak, which is Vrh Male Krnice, amounting to almost 1600m elevation gain, emphasizing that most of the path is trackless, where your foot can quickly slip into some hollow. The next peak is Vrh Krnice, which you can't see from the lower sister, as its top is covered by a grassy subpeak. We munch in the sun, which there is less and less of, as denser fogs are forming. We continue to Oblice, descend from it and find ourselves before the path section for which we came up here at all. That's the connecting ridgelet between Oblica and Vrh Rup, which I hadn't traversed yet. Actually, these are three smaller towers, the first two we overcame fairly easily, but for the third we used the rope, which Boštjan carried all the time. Boštjan, thanks! On the spot I convinced myself that a 15-meter one would suffice, as Drago suggested. To Vrh Rup and further to Oltarji, it's pure enjoyment in nice scrambling. Bad mood (besides fog) was caused by the descent from Oltarji. Just then the fog was thickest, we started the descent too far right and the difficulty was immediately high. If we had hit the right line, the descent definitely doesn't exceed II. Walk to Briceljek, where I munch the last crumbs with pleasure and descent towards Bali, where the path was stolen from us twice. velik nasmeh

Before the hunting hut a cold refreshment and another 50min to the car in Bavšica, which we had brought there in the morning.
Tour finger-licking good, guys, thanks for the nice company!
Matjaž has already added some pics, I'll add some more. Fog in the second part of the tour prevented a larger gallery. nasmeh

lijaneja6. 07. 2019 15:22:35

Maybe yesterday's tour doesn't fit under this title, as only Drago, Vinko and Jovan covered the complete ridge, who opened the topic. Well, we were still on six peaks, since few can repeat that trio in one go.
After a previous short arrangement with two youngsters we set off at 7:30 from Kluže into the steep. This time I didn't carry an ice axe and crampons, like less than a month ago, but more water instead, since they forecasted a hot day and the rucksack was heavy again. velik nasmeh

With short stops after under four hours we reached the first peak, that is Vrh Male krnice, which is almost 1600m elevation gain with the emphasis that most of the path is trackless, where your foot can quickly slip into some hollow. The next peak is Vrh krnice, which you can't see from the lower sister, as the grassy subpeak covers its top. We munched in the sun, which there was less and less of, as increasingly dense mists appeared. We continue to Oblice, descend from it and find ourselves before the section of the path, because of which we came up here at all. That's the connecting ridgelet between Oblice and Vrh rup, which I hadn't traversed yet. Actually these are three smaller towers, the first two we overcame fairly easily, from the third we used the rope, which Boštjan carried all the time. Boštjan, thank you! On the spot I convinced myself that a 15-meter one would suffice, as Drago suggested. To Vrh rup and further to Oltarji, it's pure enjoyment in nice scrambling. Into a bad mood (besides the fog) the descent from Oltarji put me. Just then the fog was the thickest, we started the descent too far right and the difficulty was high right away. If we had hit the right direction, definitely the descent doesn't exceed II. Walk to Briceljek, where with pleasure I munched the last crumbs and descent towards Bali, where they stole our path twice. velik nasmeh

Before the hunting hut a cold refreshment and another 50min to the car in Bavšica, which we had driven there in the morning.
A tour to lick your fingers, guys, thanks for the nice company!
Matjaž has already added some pics, I'll add some more. The fog in the second part of the tour prevented a larger gallery. nasmeh

Sorry, Matjaž, now I see that I duplicated some data, but I don't feel like fixing them eek

At the hunting bivouac Okrogla. Rombon and Črnel ski špici.

...and the first summit of today, Vrh Male krnice...

...which from here shows its sheer southern walls.

In front summits of Kobile, the highest in the distance is BG, taken from Vrh Male krnice.

My today's companions Boštjan and Matjaž gazed towards Rombon. The right green hillock is 'V Gradu' 1966

View from Vrh Krnice to the remaining four today's summits already disturbed by mists.

Little valley that a month ago led me into a 'stations of the cross', therefore DO NOT descend here! Right 'V Gradu'

The rope had to be taken from the backpack only at the last tower.

Oltarji after descent from them. I messed up the descent again. If you go in the right direction, it is not noteworthy

Ridge that in my opinion belongs to the top five

(+8)

dprapr6. 07. 2019 15:57:49

Tone, some do it even in winter in one day...
https://www.aocrnuce.si/prispevki.php?id=796

You could too, if you were already at the first peak in 4 hours and you know the other peaks. To the last Plešivec it's then another cca 7 hours of enjoyable scrambling.

(+3)

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Ridge Traverse of Loška stena