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Ridge Traverse of Loška stena

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miri13. 06. 2022 22:15:59
You deserve praise.
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rozka13. 06. 2022 22:26:06
Oh, thanks mirinasmeh
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matic414. 06. 2022 19:50:38
picture 23: From Oltarji usually climb on the right side along the ridge, at the top there's also a belay station.
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rozka14. 06. 2022 21:48:14
Thanks matic4nasmeh...I too looked as you drew when we were already downmežikanje...we went more left, there are also 3 belays and we joined where your traverse right is drawn.
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lojze18254. 09. 2022 19:21:17
On Saturday 3.9., variant traverse of the northern part of Loška stena. From Bavšica over pl. Bala first to Plešivec. Then along the ridge ahead to Bavh and to the lowest point under Bedinji vrh which I bypassed below on easier terrain. Ascent to Morež over "Miheličeva polica" and direct to top, descent along the ridge to Konjska škrbina. Continued descent to Lepoč then traverse past Stador to path for Bricelj and back to valley.
Grasses in the morning still a bit wet but ascent to Morež all dry, otherwise nothing special. No snakes in sight velik nasmeh
Towards the saddle Čez Brežice and Plešivec1
From Bavh view towards the traversed ridge from Plešivec, Jalovec in the background2
Onwards towards Bedinji vrh3
Mangrt4
Bedinji vrh5
Morež from below, passages on the grass clearly visible6
From the summit of Morež view northwards, Bedinji vrh already in the clouds7
Descent ridge8
Morež Wall9
At Konjska škrbina before it completely clouded over10
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alyas5. 09. 2022 08:16:55
nice nasmeh and congrats also for without B.V.
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lojze18256. 09. 2022 20:57:29
Thanks. At first I thought from Konjska škrbina at least to Mali bedinji vrh, but peaks already fully in clouds. Will wait for another time.
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JTrogar7. 12. 2023 18:41:54
Plešivec, Bavh, Vrh Goleževice, Bedinji vrh, Mali Bedinji vrh, Morež and Stador 6.9.2023:
I gladly accepted colleague Dušan's invitation for this tour since I haven't been in these areas yet. He's invited me for a long time, this time it worked.
Still in the dark we shouldered packs at Bavšica parking and headed to Plešivec. Past abandoned Logje village in the dark with one headlamp. Dušan's dropped early and died. On planina Bala nice day dawned. At hunting hut refreshed at cold spring trough. Although the valley path is quite nice, it drags like a spring snake. Only when we reached Bali over Prevala did we see our first goal Plešivec. But it was still far up. A little above saddle Čez Brežice we stepped out of shade into sun and under pleasant warming sun rays stepped onto grassy top of Plešivec.
First stop here. Changed sweaty boots for dry fivefingers and started to fully enjoy. Dušan already during the drive told me that I would surely like it up there and it was really fantastic. Path continuation was pure enjoyment. Views of wonderful peaks of the Julian Alps around us filled me with incredible beautiful energy. On the left wonderful Pelci ridge, on the right Montaževa chain, in the distance Dolomites, High Tours with Veliki Klek, behind mighty Mangart and Jalovec and below Koritnica. With each step something new appeared, as this is the world of ibex, chamois, raptors, pathless areas, hunters and much more wild.
To avoid misunderstanding amid all this beauty, the path is very demanding and requires full concentration, climbing knowledge and a lot of stamina. Demanding jumps up and down, steep grasses over precipices did not leave me indifferent.
To Bavh we ascended each in our own way. I along the narrow ridge, Dušan around through grasses. It turned out his variant was better, because I struggled a bit and he had to wait for me a little at the top. Continuation towards Vrh Goleževice and Bedinji vrh was quite pleasant.
Just a little before Bedinji vrh Milan Leskovšek calls and asks how we are doing. Gave us very useful tips for ascent to Bedinji vrh and saved us at least half an hour of walking. Thanks Milan.
During ascent we admired a herd of chamois retreating from its top. The ascent itself is nice but short. From it we already looked ahead to Morež. Meanwhile Konjska škrbina was waiting, not at all easy. Steep are the grasses from its saddle up to Mali Bedinji vrh. On Morež we disturbed a herd of sheep grazing. We nicely managed the ascent to it, but the descent was anything but easy. During the ascent we also experienced a wonderful sight when two white-headed hawks took off from the cliff and flew into the distance. On Morež Dušan tells me that below us is his goal for today and that is Stador. Before that he wanted to show me how nice it is to walk along the ridge of Loška stena, for which I am infinitely grateful. He already had all other peaks of Loška stena ticked off.
As I already wrote, the descent got a bit complicated for us. We didn't have gear for further towards Briceljku, so we descended via the approach and instead of going all the way down to the scree we traversed low through grasses under Morež towards Stador. But these grasses became steeper and steeper and ended above precipitous walls. Returning back didn't appeal to us so we went searching for a possible passage and succeeded.
Followed crossing of screes and ascent to the saddle under Stador. Dušan rushed uphill to the saddle as if we had just started walking, I was already breathing heavily. Despite that I managed his announced ten minutes to the top of Stador. On it we congratulated each other for the traversed route. Pleasant was the feeling looking at the ridge which was not easy at all. What must the harder half of Loška stena be like. I hope Dušan invites me again.
Descent to the hunting hut was quite strenuous, as the path overgrown with high coastal vegetation hides various traps. More relaxed pace we had lower through the nice beech forest. Only one fallen tree to bypass and we were back at the hut. To the car we then did analysis, relived memories, enjoyed the late afternoon and happily concluded another wonderful tour.
Regards and safe steps to all from under beautiful Golte, Janeznasmeh
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dprapr7. 12. 2023 19:54:53
Wow, nice number of tours done this year. I see that years don't hinder you at all and you still have motivation. Though same generation.nasmeh
From Morež easy descent a bit along the ridge, down to grass and traverse to saddle under Stador. Grassy passage under double-headed tower well visible on pic 56.
Why would the other part be harder? In this direction just a few meters of jump after Vrh Rup. In the opposite much easier.
Otherwise you missed Votli vrh before Morež(?), which is more demanding or has exposed descent to it.
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lijaneja7. 12. 2023 20:18:26
Nice to see greenery in cold winter daysnasmeh.
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zokipoki8. 12. 2023 13:48:53
Janez, tell me what pills you eat? velik nasmeh
I suspect chamois from the ad! nasmeh
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JTrogar19. 09. 2024 17:35:34
Loška stena day 1 30.7 2024: Bavšica(700)-Plešivec(2168)-Bavh(2189)-Vrh Goleževice(2119)-Bedinji vrh(2196)-Mali Bedinji vrh(2174)-Konjska škrbina(2040)-Votli vrh(2197)-Morež(2261)-Bricelk(2346)

Last year Dušan and I were up there. We traversed this part of Loška stena to Morež, he promised the second half for this year. Vinko joined, always eager for wild ends. I added something to the idea and this came out.
First plan a few days earlier fell through because Dušan got sick. It was a bit weird. Cancels at midnight, departure at two, all with packed rucksacks. We ate sandwiches at home then.
Second time it worked. We started in Bavšica. Heavy dew surprised us so we were all completely wet underfoot. Upon reaching Plešivec, the enjoyment began.
So much diverse lush greenery and beautiful flowers as here I've never seen anywhere else in the mountains, not to mention all the other beauty.
Crazy beautiful setting with endless views, local residents watch you from rocks and sky, varied terrain invites from peak to peak. Traverses on demanding ridge offer themselves. You fully realize you're moving in a world of very demanding pathless terrain, ibex, chamois, ptarmigan, snakes, bearded vultures, high walls, steep grass, no water no huts.
To Morež we stuck to the ridge completely and stepped on all peaks. Stražar below it we bypassed left on steep grass with short abseil and climbed via Nad jamo to the first day's goal Bricelk.
Tired from heavy rucksacks, demanding terrain, lots of elevation but with wonderful experiences we bivouacked on it after beautiful sunset.
Regards and safe steps to all from under beautiful Golte, Janez🙂
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Votli vrh40
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Window on Votlem vrh.44
Votli vrh45
Down there you reach Votli vrh.46
Morež, Stražar and Briceljk from Votlega vrh.47
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JTrogar19. 09. 2024 17:41:18
Loška stena day 2 31.7.2024: Bricelk(2346)-Oltarji(2308)-Vrh rup(2245)-Oblica(2246)-Vrh krnice(2234)-Kobila(2098)-Bavšiva(700)

Bivouac on Bricelk in clear night was a special experience. At the same time very nice but also strenuous. Not a square meter flat up there and whatever way I turned something was poking me. During insomnia phases I stared at starry sky, wished something nice on shooting stars and could hardly wait for sunrise. It was wonderful, rose between Mali and Veliki Ozebnik.
Easy start gently down grassy ridge to Oltarji perfect for our old joints. Ascent to it already hinted that second half of ridge won't be easier than first.
Before Oblica for demanding smooth belly we gladly used the fixed prusik. Thanks to Mateja and friend who renewed and equipped several anchors anew a couple days before.
Plenty of enjoyable airy ridge walking still to Vrh krnice.
Before descent to fortress Kluže we dropped to Kobila. Dušan could tick off the last two-thousander in Loška stena.
Descent in worst daily heat was tough indeed and we ran out of drinks too. Dušan sacrificed and went for car to Bavšica. Thanks. Oh how good that cold drink from car tasted.
Then drove to first possible access to Koritnica, enjoyed cold water there, then long way home awaited.
Tough and unforgettable adventure was this ridge traverse of Loška stena.
Dušan, Vinko, thanks for company and transport.
Regards and safe steps to all from under beautiful Golte, Janez🙂
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lijaneja19. 09. 2024 18:43:59
You immortalized Loška stena in nice weather, Janez! I enjoyed Rokavi that day, slept preferably at homejezik. Nice pics you kept to yourself for a month and a half, pity no captions for the icing on the cake.
Do you maybe remember if the three pegs in rocks for descent to Votli vrh are still there?
Lots of enjoyment and luck I wish you further!
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jprim19. 09. 2024 19:06:09
You waited long with this post. mežikanje
Congrats on the bold tour and great pics. And really lots of flowers.
And safe on the path.
LP!
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Hammond19. 09. 2024 20:10:09
Those pegs are still there.
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Tomco19. 09. 2024 22:30:20
Beautifully documented wilderness. Someday when I'm "big", I hope I'll also go like this in these areas. nasmeh
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mukica20. 09. 2024 07:17:42
My salute to you youngsters for all walked and climbed in this wild world of peaks surrounded by wonderful setting and vegetation. nasmeh I'll be glad if someday I observe at least some detail from afar mežikanje
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Irina20. 09. 2024 07:58:20
Sincere congratulations for the completed tour.
To have knowledge, experience and fitness to experience this wilderness in all its majestic beauty. Sparkling description of your path complemented by wonderful photos for all those who surely won't tread this pathless terrain in this life. Guys, thanks.
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zokipoki20. 09. 2024 07:59:27
True adventure!
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