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| garmont19. 08. 2020 19:42:04 |
I didn't even know that such an SVK with a swivel exists.
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| čebejla19. 08. 2020 22:03:13 |
I have a harness with this swivel from another maker, but in practice it's not all oh and wow, it still tangles.
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| Pi_is_exactly_325. 08. 2020 17:57:47 |
@Lukito ... I also have something like that, but I have a bad experience with using it above 3000m, because some snow blocks it after a few meters when it jams inside the carabiner gate.
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| Lukito26. 08. 2020 14:27:46 |
What kind of carabiner should it be in these conditions? Heated?
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| Zebdi26. 08. 2020 15:13:42 |
As similar as possible to a regular screwgate? Those generally don't have problems with snow
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| Lukito26. 08. 2020 16:23:06 |
I don't know if a screw is a good thing for conditions where something freezes. Probably best for that is to have a carabiner with wire gate? Via ferrata I don't really see as winter sport, but I've used them already in snow for half an hour and didn't have problems with carabiners - similar gates as the kit mentioned above.
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| čebejla26. 08. 2020 17:14:56 |
Regarding large carabiners - personally I like them, but it's true they sometimes slip over the anchor where the cable is clipped and get stuck. No problem though, if there are plastic protections against anchors.
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| Zebdi27. 08. 2020 09:36:00 |
Wire gates? Don't want to know the consequences in case of cross-loading
Carabiners must have a protector so they don't open/unclip in case of fall. So no one really takes regular wire-gate carabiners for self-belaying...
As for the screws themselves, who knows. I've climbed quite a few icefalls and winter routes, never issues with opening screwgates.
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| Lukito27. 08. 2020 10:09:54 |
If they are similar to regular screwgates it'll also be interesting screwing at every clip Not saying the ones I mentioned are suitable for use, but if you go from climbing and descend via ferrata without SVK clipped to harness, you don't lock screwgates every time either, but do something else...
On SVK I prefer ones you "squeeze" front and back and they open - easier for me to use. As for gear freezing, luckily worst for me was frozen plastic buckles on gaiters and I had to drive home with boots on so they thawed while driving. Believe there are worse things, we've also gotten a rope stuck sometimes and it was fun 
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| Zebdi27. 08. 2020 10:29:36 |
Yeah, but if you're descending via ferrata without SVK, what do you protect yourself with then? Rappel the via ferrata?
Because regular sling + carabiner = shortcut to Britof.
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| Lukito27. 08. 2020 11:36:56 |
@Zebdi, do you think climbers in Triglav S/Z wall who descend via Plemenice carry SVK with them? Or how?
@turbo, saving lives, thanks!
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| Zebdi27. 08. 2020 12:31:19 |
Lukito, Bamberg isn't a via ferrata at all and personally I'd be very surprised if any climber heading to the Wall felt need for protection on that path. Even more surprised if any of them clipped with regular sling, because climbers usually get what fall factor and possible consequences are 
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| Lukito27. 08. 2020 12:49:07 |
@Zebdi: it's a secured climbing path that I gave as an example and not the only option. And if you're personally very surprised, so be it. Believe me, people actually clip into slings and quickdraws on certain descents too. Well, you probably wouldn't because the fall factor over the wall is probably better for you than a back injury. If you haven't eaten all the world's wisdom and have some space left, maybe you can still think about it being nice to be at least somewhat clipped in - maybe you meet someone less experienced somewhere who sweeps you off the wall with a backpack.
Well, unless you're an experienced alpinist, then it's impossible, right? No more danger, protection completely unnecessary. Maybe some hair will split differently for you and you'll think a bit more practically. Personally I prefer to protect on quickdraw and sling rather than nothing. Given that I have a harness on and gear on the harness. Nice day and good luck.
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| Zebdi27. 08. 2020 13:05:17 |
@Lukito, a lot has already been written on the topic of static vs. dynamic belaying, but anyway:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me0dSWbEq8I
Fall 1 meter above the bolt, 80kg, tested also belaying with a sling (120cm). Good luck!
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| Lukito27. 08. 2020 13:19:00 |
Apples, pears... every alpinist will also tell you he has no desire to fall on SVK because the factor is too high and injury very likely. Definitely better than falling without, right?
I'm glad you found space somewhere to share knowledge, even though I didn't talk or ask about it. But thanks anyway, I already know all that.
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| Zebdi27. 08. 2020 13:38:57 |
Look, I don't care at all how you (don't) protect yourself. Those apples and pears, alpinist falls and the like I won't comment on, but when you write about protecting with sling and quickdraw be aware that there's a chance someone reads it and uses that "knowledge". There are already too many accidents in the mountains and no need at all to encourage more. That's it from me
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| Lukito27. 08. 2020 14:15:25 |
If you read everything you wouldn't write like that. Then some would interpret your writing that it's better not to be protected than protected on regular quickdraw, or that you need a dynamic on the end of SVK. And that doesn't hold either, right?
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