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| svetilnik3. 05. 2016 15:53:03 |
I've already seen that last one, otherwise thanks guys for the help 
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| M&P13. 07. 2016 19:56:55 |
Hello,
I'd like to ask one question, a few pages back Smetar posted a picture of the bowline on a bight (http://alpirocnik.rasica.org/images/7/79/Popkovina.jpg). I'm curious why the whip knot is used on the carabiner instead of just the cowboy bowline like on the harness?
Thanks
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| palček plezalček13. 07. 2016 20:48:32 |
M&P Cowboy isn't the final knot. There's also the chance it unthreads from the carabiner. See pictures....
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| M&P13. 07. 2016 20:54:36 |
That's REALLY good to know.
Many thanks for the explanation.
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| SamoK13. 07. 2016 21:10:33 |
Even more important is that the mule knot can be adjusted, the cowboy bowline cannot.
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| palček plezalček13. 07. 2016 21:36:08 |
M&P... if you don't climb, you might not know that with the mule knot you make on the rope and clip into the master carabiner, you attach to the anchor in e.g. multi-pitch routes. In this case (just one option), as SamoK said, you can move it as needed without unclipping; meaning you're always protected. It follows that if you're too far, you can shorten the rope to be closer to the anchor or lengthen it. There are more options for using/moving the mule knot on the rope.
Best if you need knots only for bowline on a bight (e.g. to clip to cable to photo or rest), stick to those few proven safe versions.
Safe travels. 
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| SamoK13. 07. 2016 21:49:17 |
The mule knot is really a very good knot.
With the bowline on a bight the actual trick is in adjusting it, because if you tied a cowboy bowline into the carabiner, it's the same as clipping just a loop without knot.
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| grega_z_brega13. 07. 2016 21:58:50 |
Aw, let's not nitpick a bit... 
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| nejkosmejko8. 08. 2016 11:42:51 |
And who uses direct clipping through the self-belaying kit for resting (photographing)?
Some already have preparation for "secure resting". E.g.:
Rock empire dynastop secure resting
How much (with what force, weight) can we even "lean" on the self-belay kit before it starts opening, tearing? I haven't found this data.
 1 2
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| Žiga228. 08. 2016 11:51:20 |
You'll have to really slam into it for the system to start opening.
The force you lean into the kit with has much less dynamic component (=static force). The force when you slam in a fall into the self-belaying kit is impulsive, drops quickly but is also quite large (=dynamic) and that's what activates the loop tearing.
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| nejkosmejko9. 08. 2016 09:32:33 |
I sent the question directly to rockempire...
Answer.
"..all the dynastop is tested and certified for 120kg working load."
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| Žiga229. 08. 2016 10:20:46 |
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| nejkosmejko10. 08. 2016 07:18:46 |
I copied only part of the whole email, so I didn't paste everything... I asked them specifically about static load and got 120kg answer.
Super, now everything is clear. I didn't know anything about this until now... and this knowledge is not superfluous.
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| maks5712. 08. 2016 13:48:36 |
Me again! Probably some of you are already fed up with me, but that's how it is when a guy eyeing "sixty" falls more and more in love month by month with everything related to mountains (hills).
My wife and I are buying a self-belaying kit. Can you advise us which kit to choose and also, which type: one-piece (with shoulder straps) or two-piece.
Many thanks for the answer!
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| Žiga2212. 08. 2016 14:05:10 |
Regarding self-belaying kits there's quite a bit written already in this thread, browse a bit, there's more than enough material.
That one-piece or two-piece you're probably asking about the harness?
A one-piece will be perfectly sufficient, meaning the lower part.
And don't forget the helmet.
Happy trails!
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| Zebdi12. 08. 2016 14:10:48 |
Well, just the lower harness part + backpack can be a pretty bad combo in case of a fall on a vertical...
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| Hribolaznik12. 08. 2016 14:26:35 |
I recommend the cheapest harness and cheapest self-belaying kit (won't advertise where to get it), all are certified and have the same warranty. Best to try the harness in the shop. Regards
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| svetilnik16. 08. 2016 18:21:38 |
I have one question, maybe it sounds a bit weird, but directly... is it sensible or possible to use self-belaying on the way to Škrlatica? What are your experiences?
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