| JusAvgustin2. 09. 2010 20:46:30 |
It was 4 a.m. The thermometer showed 4 degrees, I with hands in pockets clenched into a fist was waiting with all the gear on the road. Where are you? Oh, just 5 more minutes, came the reply. The anticipation was immense, ants crawling down my back. Široka peč, a name I hadn't seen on the forum yet. We're gonna climb it, we said. Preparations had been going for a while, everything "studied" to perfection. Gear, fitness, just the weather... And we got it. Široka peč was first climbed, only 150 years after Triglav, why? We soon found out ourselves. From Martuljek we headed to Za Akom (one of the nicest cirques around). At Za Akom we entered the right gully (left would be proper), after half an hour already swimming in bushes and traversed right. The gully then splits, we followed the right steep gully, where an 8m rock jump awaited us (rock on sides wet, I pulled straight up the middle, incredible feeling grabbing the rock (again)). After first jump traversed left on ledge, led to another smaller jump (no issues). Followed 15m rock jump, "child's play" easy. But we knew now the real thing starts. We dug in knees and panted to 30m rock jump closing passage to Amphitheater. Rated III+, but plenty of iron in wall, climbing real pleasant. After few short pitches, entered Amphitheater. Covered in new snow, walking super pleasant. Soon plowed into scree, after 10 min up to ledge to notch. At notch, abseil (rope there) into fully collapsed gully to jammed boulder (on belly!) past and to belay. From belay super unpleasant traverse right (Z tower bypass) to nick, from there child's play, through rubble to top of Široka peč. Descended same way...
WARNING! Široka peč among hardest peaks in Julian Alps! Anyone going must master alpinism basics! Rope descents (several), III+ climbing in mountains and solid nerves! Belays equipped, plenty pegs, lots loose stuff! Rock crumbly nasty in spots, solid elsewhere! First jump (boulder) hard because middle (water sides), orientation tricky too. On descent 9x rappelled! (60m). Fresh snow in Amphitheater made ascent way easier (no crampons/ice axe needed). Best tour this year, pure wilderness, 800m S wall. No one nowhere. Totally alone. Fairy tale.
From sleepy G. Martuljek by Martuljek stream, to Ak, behind Ak to gully (climbing joy), to Amphitheater (other world), ledge to notch (nasty spot, crumbly), to top. No feeling like it... Gear: Harness, biners, 6 quickdraws, 3 slings, 3 nuts, 60m rope + 30m tag line. Reverso or eight (don't recommend), good boots and NO FEAR!
Juš and Matej
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