Triglav, Slovenian Route - Prevčev Exit
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| ljubitelj gora8. 08. 2014 14:21:17 |
A couple of days ago some were there and I saw they had crampons and ice axe in use.
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| Zenfinio8. 08. 2014 15:40:37 |
So gully flooded all the way (that's even better) prevc also still might flood as far as I can see...rest could be dry....I'll check 
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| Gric10. 08. 2014 22:06:17 |
Was yesterday. In Slovenian gully there's snow. Biggest jump (upper constriction in pic) partially iced. Can bypass it on right or even more right over rocks
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| Gric10. 08. 2014 22:08:04 |
Don't know why it put the pic in landscape... If admin can fix
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| lynx11. 08. 2014 00:32:42 |
(portal hasn't heard of exif (orientation data))
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| jedriličar28. 09. 2014 21:50:52 |
On Saturday Branko&Anita and I were in the Slovenian. Conditions totally fine, snow in Slovenian gully just a trace. Exit via Frelih ledge. Besides us, only two others were visible who exited via Prevč. Day to scream for joy. Due to technical issues with camera (forgot to charge it), no pics then.... Branko will upload his ...
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| VesnaM30. 09. 2014 20:42:36 |
On Monday Slovenian-Prevč exit. Snow can be avoided. It was a beautiful day in great company!
pics are upside down, can't rotate them..
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| JusAvgustin1. 10. 2014 05:48:08 |
oh yeah, just do that before uploading them  , great, congrats!
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| jedriličar1. 10. 2014 07:42:44 |
Windows Picture viewer, right click mouse, select rotate clockwise and problem solved, you have rotated pics ...
Otherwise nice, congrats ...
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| ZoranV1. 10. 2014 22:14:37 |
She probably has a camera that writes image rotation to Exif which Windows picture viewer recognizes and displays correctly, but hribi.net upload tool doesn't. This usually happens when uploading unprocessed pics straight from camera.
Otherwise congrats on the ascent
Pic is from Sunday around 14:30, no one visible on the exit.
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| VincentGallo16. 05. 2015 13:07:34 |
Hi,
I'd like to do the tour via Slovenian, interested in a few things.
Facts:
Haven't been in Triglav north face yet.
My experience is that via ferrata set is more obstacle than help.
My opinion is weather and caution/smarts are most important factor.
What interests me:
1. What are June conditions? Need crampons / ice axe?
2. When walking path over Prag then to Slovenian entrance, possible to miss during climb on Slovenian and end up on German or impossible?
3. How about exposed sections? From pics saw only Frelih ledge a bit more exposed, while Prevč variant unexposed? (correct if wrong) How exposed Bučarjeva, Bele plati, Slo gully?
4. Any tips for someone who hasn't done Slovenian (no guide planned, if lost in fog go back down..)
Gear I plan to take:
Climbing shoes (for rock)
Mountaineering boots (for non-climbing paths)
Backpack
Crampons (just in case)
that's all
If pegs already in wall, doubt it, will take harness and rope.. no own pegs..
Thanks for all tips, please those with nothing useful to say hold back, others thanks in advance.
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| Viper16. 05. 2015 13:32:28 |
1. In June I think crampons still necessary.
2. Hard to miss that much to end up straight in German route from Slovenian. Take sketch, description and photo and you'll know where to go.
3. All written with grades how hard sections are. Prevč variant also not so innocent, as it's quite steep.
Slo gully exposed maybe only due to snow and one boulder.
Bele plati and Bučarjeva wall: nice climbing, a bit crumbly.
4. Better go in clear weather.
Don't go into wall without climbing gear. Of course take rope, some peg, hammer...
Any retreat in wall in fog, rain... can be very difficult and dangerous.
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| urarrr16. 05. 2015 14:40:58 |
if you haven't been, don't go alone.
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| VincentGallo16. 05. 2015 14:52:59 |
viper and urar thanks for quick response and useful info,
I'm not an inexperienced climber so don't worry, just don't know this route so seeking some tips. Thanks again.
Regards
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| Branee16. 05. 2015 17:37:44 |
Why don't you then break it down like it should be (for a climber). Improvisation is the devil..
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| ajax17. 05. 2015 12:41:14 |
hahaha,vince,go to the mental hospital.
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| dprapr17. 05. 2015 13:56:14 |
As far as I know, there is no path along the Slovenian Route!? Maybe something through the larches. There are indicated tracks on Zlatorog's ledges, where you can easily traverse to the German one.
If you don't know the route and can't read descriptions, you can get lost anywhere. If you master reading descriptions, you shouldn't have problems. Snow is no obstacle either, quite the opposite, it facilitates progress. Of course with proper equipment.
And if you're asking for advice here, it's definitely not appropriate to tackle the route alone, despite "experience".
I know, it would be better not to comment, but sometimes I can't pass by. Everything stated is well-intentioned!
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| Viper17. 05. 2015 14:41:47 |
Slovenian is a route and not a path, but that's fine. Let's go to the next chapter, what VincentGallo asked can only be good. Better to get as much info as possible for every route, especially if you plan to climb solo. What ajax wrote is definitely not for the mental hospital.
If he's capable on his own, why not.
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| Potohodnik17. 08. 2015 07:51:44 |
I'd like to go up the Slovenian route with my dad. We have rope, helmet, ice axe, crampons, harnesses, etc. and we know how to belay, but we don't have pitons. How is the protection in this route? From the descriptions it seems we could manage without belays with some effort, but I'm asking because I want to know.
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